Caveat: That Chlorinated Water Smell

When I was a child, I had not one but several traumatic experiences around learning to swim. There was the rather unenlightened “throw them in the deep end and they’ll figure it out” approach that I got around age 7 or 8 at the Humboldt State University pool for some community-based children’s swimming class. And there was an event a few years later, I think, at the pool at College of the Redwoods, where some people in my extended family had taken me, where I ended up cracking my face open and filling the pool with blood and getting stitches later. Finally, feeling the deficit of my swimming ability, I enrolled, on my own initiative, in a private beginning swimming class one summer at the Arcata community pool. After 8 weeks of flailing around, my instructor pronounced me that most unusual of cases: I was, apparently, “unteachable.” Though this last was just a wounding of my ego, it was perhaps the most traumatic of all.

The consequences of these experiences were twofold. The first, obviously, is that I retain some anxiety around swimming, to this day. I did manage, in fact, to pass a “tread water” test while in the Army, and I feel confident that I could perhaps manage to get across a short stretch of water if I had to, in an emergency. But I’ve never enjoyed swimming recreationally, and I’m not a confident swimmer. The second is less obvious: whenever I feel anxiety, that smell of chlorinated pool water makes an appearance, like an olefactory memory but just as vivid as any visual or aural one, if not more so.

This is perhaps interesting – it’s like a sort of special-case synesthesia that comes to me in moments of despair and high anxiety, which, thankfully, don’t hit me that often these days. In high school during exams, I would smell chlorine. In university, while struggling to write papers during all-nighters, I would smell chlorine. Once, when I asked a certain someone on a date, I smelled chlorine.

Today, I had a weird experience. It was what you might call a case of empathetic anxiety-related synesthesia.

We are giving all the students at the hagwon special year-end “level tests,” which is because, effective with the new year, they technically move up a grade level. So the hagwon needs to re-place them in their appropriate ability level. This is especially important for the students moving up from the elementary curriculum to the middle-school curriculum.

The level test, being a level test, is astoundingly difficult. I’d say it’s almost SAT-ish. These are Korean kids who sometimes struggle to emit a coherent English sentence about how they feel, under relaxed conditions. For these… well, it’s basically just gobbledygook to some of them. Specifically, the PN반. PN is the lowest ability middle-school level at Karma. Don’t ask me what PN stands for – something involving “Pioneers,” I think.

When I went in to monitor their test-taking experience, already in progress, I swear several of them were in tears. Others had long given up and were sleeping, face-planted at their desks, with more than an hour still remaining of test time.

I tried to rouse their enthusiasm, and few of the more communicative ones just said, “oh. very, very hard.” Heavy sighs all around.

Several of the students were drawing pictures on the test paper. One was using his pencil as a random number generator (to give him the answers), by spinning it and seeing which point of the compass it indicated (this is a near-universal test-taking strategy in Korea, The Land of the Morning Multiple-Choice Test).

I had this moment of deep, deep empathy. I realized that if I were confronted with a test of the Korean Language at the same rough level as the test these kids were facing (and given that I long ago concluded that I was a PN반-type student of Korean, and not one of the more advanced ones), I would, even at 46 years of age, be in tears, too. And I don’t even have to worry about getting into a good high-school so I can get into a good university so I can get a good job so I can be successful so I can fulfill my obligations to my family and, most importantly, to my ancestors.

Watching my students tugging at their hair, playing with their pencils, making red sleep-marks on their cheeks by sleeping against the corner of the desk, I felt rising up in me the most profound empathy. It wasn’t fair!

And then I smelled that chlorinated water smell. Perhaps for one of the few times in my life, it came to me not because of my own anxiety and pain and despair but because of an awareness of those feelings in those around me.

Maybe… it’s like being the kind of person who cries at the movies. Maybe.

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Caveat: “Maude Sanders”

I awoke from a strange, very vivid dream, this morning.

Sometimes my dreams offer up details that seem amazingly realistic, and I have no idea where my subconscious might have dredged up such details. Case in point, this dream was almost like a short story, or the beginning to a novel, or a scene from a Wim Wenders movie. There was a main character, who was named Maude Sanders. Really.

When I woke up, I wondered, who in the world is Maude Sanders? Why is she in my dream? I googled the name, but nothing popped out as being the kind of thing that might have lodged in my subconscious. Maude Sanders appears to be an entirely fictional person that decided to make an appearance in my dream. But somehow, her name was clearly known and repeatedly stated in the dream – it was somehow important.

The dream.  Or the story. Or whatever it was.

Maude Sanders

I am walking around some dusty Korean town – the sort that’s so rural, and so forgotten by the last 20 or 30 years of economic miracles, that it has an atmosphere vaguely reminiscent of Mexico: there are chickens being carried around and clucking in vacant lots, men smoking while squatting on street corners, old women carting bags vegetables on their heads. There is a woman selling knives laid out on a blanket on the sidewalk, but she seems to be dozing under her broad-brimmed hat. It’s summer or early fall, the air is clear and unhumid. The sun is beating down.

It’s not actually clear to me why I’m there. I’m really hungry, and I’m looking at the posted menus of the various restaurants strung out along the street leading from the bus station. I’m trying to work up the nerve to go into one of the restaurants and negotiate the Korean language, so I can order some food. I’m craving kimchi bokkeumbap, but none of the menus that I can see have it.

I finally walk into a cavernous place that is largely empty. There is a large television playing Korean pop music videos, but no one is watching. There are some men chatting with a waitress in by the back counter, leading to the kitchen area.

There’s a thin, frail-looking Western woman, with dusty blond hair, sitting at a table alone in the center of the room. Some Korean men are regarding her speculatively, and when I walk in – yet another “foreigner” – they look up in surprise, and maybe assume she and I must know each other.

She introduces herself by the unusual method of showing her discharge papers from a psychiatric facility. But that’s getting ahead of the story.

I sit down along one of the walls, not anywhere near the young woman. The waitress comes and takes my order, and for some reason I order jjajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce), even though I don’t actually like jjajangmyeon.

Right from the start, I could see that she is really, clearly, a very strange person. But she is young and attractive, and shortly after I have sat down, I see her go over and begin chatting with several middle-aged Korean men. This is before I have yet spoken with her.

I am surprised and jealous to see that she is speaking stunningly good Korean – clearly with a foreign accent, but fluent and effective. The men seem more taken with that aspect of her than her gaunt beauty or her bizarre proposition.

What is the bizarre proposition? I gathered, early on, that she is talking about something illicit or unexpected with the men – I can see their shocked, uncomfortable reactions. It is unclear what it might be. These men she is talking to seem more stunned by it than genuinely interested in whatever it is she is saying. Perhaps they are put off by the introduction – the frank announcement that she has recently exited a mental hospital. That is probably a bit overwhelming for a typical Korean man of limited world-view and provincial mentality.

By the time I get my food, she has returned to her table in the center of the room and is again sitting alone, toying with, but not eating, some jjambbong – a spicy noodle and seafood concoction that goes under the rubric of “Chinese food” in Korea, but which no self-respecting Chinese person would cook. It is “Chinese” in kind of the same way “Chinese food” in rural America doesn’t seem very Chinese to Chinese people, either. Although it’s quite different, jjambbong always reminds me of Chilean curanto  – I think it’s the combination of pork and seafood in a stew.

I distinctly remember thinking about curanto, and Chile, in the dream. That’s always strange, when there are reflective moments of just thinking, inside of a dream-memory.

The woman, seeing me alone, and having been not-so-politely brushed off by the bewildered Korean men, comes over and bluntly introduces herself, now, to me. This is when I come to understand that the papers she’s showing are the discharge papers from the psychiatric hospital.

“I’m Maude Sanders,” she explains. She has a non-North American accent, but not British. Perhaps Australian, or Irish. It’s not clear. It’s another of those moments of inside-the-dream just thinking, as I meditate on this.

“You speak very good Korean,” I answer, noncommittally. I am fascinated by her unusual mode of introduction.

“It’s not hard to pick up when you spend a few years in mental hospital in Korea,” she explains, with a shrug. This does, indeed, make sense. But how is it that she came to spend a few years in a Korean nut house? I feel afraid to ask. There is a short, awkward silence, then. I look at the TV. She looks over at the Korean men, as if wishing they’d cooperated with her proposition, earlier.

She lowers her voice and leans in close. I am drawn in by her attractiveness, but I can tell I am not going to like what she has to say. It’s a kind of inside-the-dream premonition.

“Wanna watch me kill myself?”

There are some disconnected images of me actually agreeing to this, right at the end: signing some kind of waiver.

But that was so shocking, that I woke up.

Dreams are so very strange. Except for the name, this dream isn’t really that hard for me to interpret, actually. If you know me well, you will understand what I mean. 

But the name has me puzzled. Why “Maude Sanders”? Why did the dream emphasize it, almost giving it as a title? Was it trying to help me make it into a short story?

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Caveat: Korean sixth graders don’t quote Deleuze

Last night I dreamed I was giving students tests. Somehow, this shouldn't be surprising. But they were math tests.

It was mostly to my elementary students from Karma, including, especially, the highly talkative and distracting sixth graders from the ET2 cohort – these kids, among all my students, are the ones who have best figured out how to get me "off track" by asking random questions of intellectual curiosity, and who exercise this ability quite regulary to ensure we do the minimum amount of textbook work possible in a given class.

The same thing was going on during these math tests. The students kept trying to change the subject. The location was odd – it wasn't Karma, it was more like a midwestern American school, maybe. I don't even have much familiarity with midwestern American schools, so I'm not sure why I say that. Actually, if I recognized the building, it was the place where I started fourth grade in Oklahoma City, during that traumatic year that started with the 4 months in Oklahoma City and ended with my parents' divorce.

I have no idea what the symbolism is, of giving math tests to my Korean English students in a setting from my own childhood.

During the dream, when I collected the tests, I sat around scoring the tests with coworkers. The coworkers included fellow teachers from Karma, from Hongnong, and even from LBridge. And then the strangest part of the dream: one of the students, I think it was a girl named Hyewon from the ET2 class, got up and gave a presentation on why she got a bad score on the math test. As an English language speech, it was quite well-done and coherent and even interesting. As an excuse for doing badly on a math test, it was unlikely. She quoted the French philosopher Deleuze.

That's surreal, of course – Korean sixth graders don't quote Deleuze.

I looked down at the copy of her test that I'd scored. It was covered in red marks that I couldn't remember making. I couldn't understand the math, either. There were some computers next to me, like the ones in the staff room at Hongnong. I looked up and the vice principal was glaring incomprehendingly at the student's speech.

I woke up. I'd slept the longest I've slept uninterruptedly in a very long time – just over 8 hours. I've been struggling with my "wake up too early and can't get back to sleep" insomnia, lately, so I felt very good about this.

I thought about my dream, and had some rice and coffee (not mixed together) for breakfast.

Caveat: Issitoq

Issitoq is an Inuit deity of surveillance and stern warnings. He is a giant eye that makes sure you don’t break the rules, like some kind of proto-Foucauldian panopticon-creature.

I was thinking about Issitoq as I drifted to sleep, the night before last. And so I had a short but vivid dream about Issitoq. It wasn’t really scary, but it was eerie. He was zooming down out of a stormy, sunsetty sky over a strangely colorful but desolate plain, like some kind of disneyfied Sauron.

I drew this picture yesterday, based on that dream.

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Caveat: Rats

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Rats can be made to laugh, apparently. They like to be tickled, according to this article.

I had a pet rat, once. I found a rat to be a surprisingly affectionate and comforting pet. I remember that he would “purr” when he was curled up and I was petting him. My rat was named “Fnugus” – which was some strange, unpronounceable whim of my adolescent mind. I ran across a picture of my long-ago pet rat, recently, in my collection. It’s not a great photo, but it made me nostalgic.

Fnugus RIP – 1979~1982.

Nostalgic for a rat. Rats!

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Caveat: Do the Waffles Cause Time to Reverse?

I can’t quite figure out this video. But I like it. Nice music track, too.

What I’m listening to right now.

Bentley Rhythm Ace, “Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out.” The car in the video below is very similar my dad’s (and formerly grandfather’s) old 1913 Ford Model T.

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I loved that car and I hated when my dad sold it. But I love the ’28 Ford Model A more – and he still hasn’t sold that (below left, from circa 1970 – with me, my sister, and mom).

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Caveat: Waking Life

How strange is it, to be quizzed by a group of sixth graders about the idea of lucid dreaming?  They didn’t remember the terminology, so the first several minutes of discussion required them explaining it to me, with their imperfect English. In and of itself, that was interesting, too – a lucid-dreaming-style sort of coming-to-awareness of the fact that the topic that we were attempting to discuss was, in fact, lucid dreaming. Hmm… I’m making it sound a little bit eerie, and it wasn’t.

It was just an interesting and engaging discussion such as rarely happens with my students, but that is deeply pleasing when it does.  

And then I came home and I somewhat spontaneously (but perhaps prompted at some subconscious level?) decided to watch a movie I saw when it first came out, and that I’d recently re-downloaded: “Waking Life.” Which is all about lucid dreaming. Among other existential and vaguely gnostic themes. And don’t forget Pedro Páramo.

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“We are asleep. Our life is a dream. But we wake up, sometimes, just enough to know that we are dreaming.”- Ludwig Wittgenstein

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Caveat: 106) 부처님. 저는 선지 식을 만날 수 있기를 발원하며 절합니다

“Buddha. I bow and pray to be able to find the ways of the prophets.”

This is #106 out of a series of 108 daily Buddhist affirmations that I am attempting to translate with my hands tied behind my back (well not really that, but I’m deliberately not seeking out translations on the internet, using only dictionary and grammar).


104. 부처님. 저는 반야 지혜가 자라기를 발원하며 절합니다.
           “Buddha. I bow and pray to grow in wisdom.”
105. 부처님. 저는 수행하는 마음이 물러나지 않기를 발원하며 절합니다.
           “Buddha. I bow and pray not to withdraw from a functioning mind.”
106. 부처님. 저는 선지 식을 만날 수 있기를 발원하며 절합니다.

Saul on the Road to DamascusI would read this one hundred sixth affirmation as: “Buddha. I bow and pray to be able to find the ways of the prophets.”

I’m not sure about “ways of the prophets” for “선지 식” – but just “the prophets” made me uncomfortable. “식” means “ceremony” or “rite.”  I decided to make it “ways.”

I have two affirmations left. Raggedsign day is approaching. I think I will make my last post on that anniversary. Another finishing, another beginning. Year 13 of my life as ghost-in-the-world draws to a close.

[Picture: Saul on the road to Damascus]

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Caveat: Leaves Everywhere

pictureDepth of fall. But the weather was hot today. “Indian summer,” that used to be called, in USland. Still called that? I don’t know…  I’m feeling out of touch with my own culture.

Easy day of teaching: two classes with the TP2 kids – easy group to get along with. Smart. Interested. Sometimes tired.

I’m just sleeping a lot. Sick. Fever.


What I’m listening to right now.

New track from Jane’s Addiction (recently re-formed), “Irresistible Force.”

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Caveat: La vida es sueño

No he podido encontrar fácilmente la fecha de composición del poema, pero parece más bien temprano que tarde. Con su título, el poeta Huidobro hace referencia al famoso drama del mismo título de Calderón de la Barca.

La vida es sueño

Los ojos andan de día en día
Las princesas posan de rama en rama
Como la sangre de los enanos
Que cae igual que todas sobre las hojas
Cuando llega su hora de noche en noche.

Las hojas muertas quieren hablar
Son gemelas de voz dolorida
Son la sangre de las princesas
Y los ojos de rama en rama
Que caen igual que los astros viejos
Con las alas rotas como corbatas

La sangre cae de rama en rama
De ojo en ojo y de voz en voz
La sangre cae como corbatas
No puede huir saltando como los enanos
Cuando las princesas pasan
Hacia sus astros doloridos.

Como las alas de las hojas
Como los ojos de las olas
Como las hojas de los ojos
Como las olas de las alas.

Las horas caen de minuto en minuto
Como la sangre
Que quiere hablar.

Vicente Huidobro es uno de mis poetas favoritos. Las hojas de otoño de estos días, rojas y marrones y doradas, me aparecen en el simbolismo aquí arriba, acompañadas por gotas de sangre y olas de las alas. Pero me pregunto, ¿quienes son las princesas?

La vida es sueño.

Entonces, anoche soñaba con una ciudad paradigmática, que parecía a una media docena de ciudades en que he vivido, que retrataba una media docena de metrópolis que he amado: Chicago, Los Ángeles, México, Filadelfia, París, Seul. Andaba de calles vacías de gente, decoradas por hojas muertas y mojadas al azar. Entre las hojas vi a una princesa, que lloraba la pérdida de un ratón mascota.

Así se puede notar los peligros inherentes de leer poesía surrealista antes de dormir. Hay que notar, también, que siempre sueño mejor cuando medio enfermo.

Debajo, una foto del otro día, mirando hacia el norte sobre el peatonal de Juyeop (주엽) en su cruce con la gran avenida de Ilsan, Jungangno (중앙로), a dos cuadras de mi departamento. Los árboles al fondo se han vestido de colores para los primeros días fríos de otoño.

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Caveat: Army Dreams

I awoke from a dream in which I was "back in" the Army.  These sorts of dreams are not that uncommon, really, for me – my own rather impactful military experience, combined with media images of military life (because of Afghanistan, Iraq, etc.), and combined with the fact that I live in the neighborhood where I was in active service (Northwest Gyeonggi), means these memories pop up pretty easily and frequently.

The dream was strange in that genre, however, because it was a dream in which I was "happily" in the Army – this is not common at all.  I was some kind of officer, it seemed.  And the soldiers under me were my middle school students.  This makes sense.  But this wasn't goofing around – this was serious Army stuff.  We had to establish a camp amid bitter cold winter weather.  But it was going well – unloading trucks, setting up these large tents, establishing a secure perimeter with guards.

There wasn't a lot of "plot" to the dream – it was mostly atmospherics.  Dreams are sometimes like that.   The feel of the "Team Spirit" joint US Army / ROK Army exercises that I remember from 1991, but populated with people from my current life.

Then my father showed up.  He wasn't helpful.  He got in the way, and he needed help.  This is psychologically transparent – viz. Dream Interpretation 101.  But I haven't had much interaction with my dad lately, so it's interesting that it dredged up from my subconscious just now.  Is it the change in weather?  

I awoke to an almost chilly fall rain, plonking outside my open window; rice and coffee for breakfast.

Caveat: Fragment

I think I have a bit of flu.

I woke up this morning with a fragment of a dream stuck to the inside of my brain. Utterly realistic dream.

I was sitting at work, at my desk, overhearing my boss talking on the phone with one of a student’s parents.  I was understanding it – not dream understanding, but actually capturing the words of the conversation.  A first grade (elementary) student, Jaehyeon, was leaving the hagwon.

When Curt hung up the phone, with his dramatic sigh as he often does when he has failed to convince a parent who is set on leaving to stay, I said to him, “Jaehyeon is leaving.” Statement, not question.

“네” [ne], he agreed. In English, he added, “But she said he liked your class.  So why is he leaving.”

In the dream, I felt very sad, that Jaehyeon was leaving. He’s by far my favorite first-grader, has a very active imagination and linguistic creativity. He makes random funny noises when he doesn’t understand something.

I woke up with this floating in my brain, thinking it was a memory of being at work. But no, I’d remember for sure if Jaehyeon were, in fact, leaving. But then I had another thought: I’d dreamed in Korean.  Not completely, but somewhat. What’s distinctive is that it was understood dream Korean, that was real Korean. Not the dream-Korean I struggle with so often, where it’s gobbledygook that I can’t make any sense out of, and that I doubt is real Korean. And that is a milestone, maybe. Or a rarity, in any event, above and beyond the banality of the dream fragment.

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Caveat: Dreamsourced

picturereams are so strange. They can be so vivid and memorable and yet make no sense, or seem utterly insignificant, devoid of deeper meaning.

I awoke from a dream in which I went back to Paradise Corp (an anonymization) to plead for my old job back. The building was still in Burbank, but when I got to the IT department, it was a transformed space. It resembled the trendy, loft-like interiors of some of those web 2.0 tech firms that make their work areas vaguly resemble a Starbucks or a Chuck E Cheese. I once interviewed at a place like that in Santa Monica (and now, years later, I can’t for the life of me remember if I was offered the job or not – but I remember the interview pretty vividly, because they asked me to solve a weird, complex, recursive SQL programming problem on the fly, and I felt kind of stumped by it, but showed them how I would find the answer; and the man leading the interview looked exactly like Mark Zuckerberg). There had been sofas and bean-bag chairs and long tables with giant flat screen monitors and little meeting tables like in a kindergarten.

The other thing about the IT department in this dream was that it had shrunk. It essentially only occupied the one large, well-decorated room. I asked the rather generic man showing me around what had happened: “Where did everyone go?”

“Oh, it’s all outsourced, now,” he responded in a singsongy voice. “Mostly to Bangalore and Hyderabad.”

This made some weird sense, and reflected trends that had been developing when I was still at the company, but I was undiplomatic: I responded, “Are you sure it isn’t just that the company has shrunk?”

This earned me a very realistic glare from my former boss, Tom, who was there but refusing to interact with me. He stalked off in search of an elevator.

All the remembered denizens of the IT department were sitting at these long tables, working.  Some didn’t even have computers, though – they had paper notebooks open and pencils. Looking more closely, a lot of them were studying phonics flashcards with words like “cat” and “cake” on them (symbolically in line with my current job, teaching elementary students English). Some of them had cups of chicken nuggets with hotsauce, from the Aroha cup-chicken fast-food place downstairs (here in Ilsan, I mean).

One of my former coworkers wanted to make small talk, but I was trying to get at what they wanted me to do now that I’d returned. “What kind of database are you trying to design, now?” I asked.

There was nothing to do – it’d all been outsourced. I asked the man with the singsongy voice what this “rump” of an IT department was actually doing. “We’re mostly keeping them because we feel sorry for them,” he explained. He made an expansive gesture around at the tables. Several of the erstwhile programmers were squabbling and skuffling over a comic book (again, I now teach elementary students, right?).

I looked around at my former coworkers, and saw the signs – the lack of computers, the fact they were doing crossword puzzles or sudoku or studying phonics flashcards. This was no IT department – it was a sort of retirement facility. And I had asked for this “job” back?

I said, “Maybe I should just go back to Korea.” My former coworkers looked sad, but they all seemed to understand. Karen nodded, sagely.

I walked back out of the old building in Burbank to find myself in a Seoul subway station. I was confused, though, and couldn’t figure out how to get to the orange #3 line, that I could use to get home. I studied a map on a wall for what seemed a very long time. Maybe an entire day. After that, I wandered through the subway until I found a bowl of samgyetang (a sort of whole-chicken stew) sitting on a ledge in one of the tunnels. My backpack sat beside it, which seemed unremarkable, but which I suddenly realized I’d been missing. I looked at the samgyetang, but found it unappetizing.

I felt a huge sadness in me.

I woke up.

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Caveat: And so begins a fifth year

At the risk of boring everyone with a third blog post in less than 24 hours, I feel compelled to observe that today is the fourth anniversary of my arrival in Korea. On September 1st, 2007, I landed at Incheon and made my way to Ilsan, where I was met by my new employer, Danny, of the eventually-defunct Tomorrow School, to begin my new teaching career.

I have spent all of the last four years in Korea, with the exception of a three-month, unemployed hiatus back in the US in the fall of 2009, and several shorter vacation trips – two to Australia to visit my mother (with side-junkets to Hong Kong and New Zealand), and one to Japan to resolve a visa issue.

I like Korea, But I’m not really a Koreanophile. Although my linguistico-aesthetic infatuation with the Korean language refuses to go away, I’m actually only lukewarm when it comes to Korean culture in more general terms. It has a lot of shortcomings, and I’m not always happy with it. But… I will attach two caveats to that statement: 1) I think the Korean polity is less dysfunctional that the US polity, and that’s a notable achievement (the current state of the US polity is so depressing as to leave me feeling embarrassed to claim US citizenship); 2) I reached a level of alienated “comfort” with life in Korea that is at least equal to the perpetual alienation I have always felt within my own country and culture.

The consequence of these preceding observations is that, as things stand, I have no interest in (and no current plans for) returning to the US – except perhaps for brief visits. For better or for worse, for now, Korea is my home. If, for whatever reason in the future, my life in Korea has to end, I will seek to continue my expat life elsewhere.

I have changed a great deal in the last four years. I have acquired some confidence as a teacher; I have built some good habits; most notably, I have embraced a sort of meditative buddhist zen (선) atheism that works well for me.  Although I’m hardly content – often lonely, often aimless in a philosophical or “spiritual” sense (as much as I dislike the concept of spirituality) – in fact I have found a kind of inner peace that my life prior to this most recent phase utterly lacked.

So, there you have it.  And so begins a fifth year…

I took the picture below on a long hike in October 2007. It shows some scarecrows in a field of cut rice, across the highway from the former Camp Edwards, in Geumchon, Paju-si (about 7 km northwest of where I live), which incidentally is where I was stationed in 1991, during my time in the US Army as a mechanic and tow truck driver. Thus, you see, my “roots” in Northwest Gyeonggi Province go “way back.”

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Caveat: Dreaming the Dialectic

I was dreaming…

that I was trying to explain “the dialectic” to someone. I said that it’s like if you are showing how thinking about a story about a girl isn’t really about a girl. I pulled up an image of a girl, a kind of black-and-white, 1950’s photograph of a rather nondescript girl. “This girl looks like… just a girl. But the dialectic is realizing that something else is actually going on,” I explained.

I said to my invisible interlocutor, “It’s about that moment when you wake up.”

And then I woke up. It was perhaps 11 pm. I had fallen asleep with my face in the book – very much not my tendency or habit, these days. I had fallen asleep, while studying.

This was a former character trait of mine; I was reprising it from years ago: it’s from old, academic years. It developed due to the inevitable sleep deprivations of graduate school, perhaps.

The air around me was close and thick and hot – my window was open, but the earlier rain had stopped. The florescent light, on in the apartment directly across the alley from mine, seemed extraordinarily, unnaturally bright.  It was shining rudely out and illuminating all the unmovingness outside with its overconfident yet highly limited repertoire of wavelengths. I listened to the sounds of the city, vague echoes of a woman singing, buses trundling past on the Jungang-no. I lay very still.

And I lay there, breathing a little bit fast, feeling like I was on the edge of understanding. I felt surprised at how I could have just woken myself up from a dream by suggesting, in the dream, that I could reach a moment of understanding at the moment of waking up. Really, it was nothing short of startling myself awake by confronting the concept of waking up.

picture

The clear image of that story about the girl, from the dream, was falling apart very quickly, like a wet piece of tissue paper.  I’m not sure it was important, though. It didn’t feel important, at all, to what had just happened.  It was arbitrary, I felt myself thinking. I watched myself thinking….

I tried to visualize a slug walking along the edge of a very sharp knife: it just doesn’t work. Not funny. What if it was a fly, landing on that edge – would it… hurt itself? I was momentarily embedded in the digression of a Haruki Murakami novel. I’d been working on digressions earlier in the day – my own writing.  Polishing a few novelistic digressions, like so much antique silverware – wishing they were whales.

I feel like this strange, crystaline moment hasn’t brought me one iota closer to understanding the dialectic; but it was nevertheless a very surprising, lucid dream. It was like an epiphany devoid of epiphanic content. Epiphany for epiphany’s sake.

One might ask, why was I dreaming definitions of the dialectic? The answer is not so obscure… I’d fallen asleep reading a recently purchased book: Valences of the Dialectic, by Fredric Jameson. I’m barely to page 15, in the first chapter, which bears the title, “Three names of the dialectic.”  How about that Diego Rivera on the cover, by the way?

I’ll get back to you if I figure it out. I might not figure it out, though. I’ve not made much progress with feeling comfortable with this essential philosphical tool, over the years. Perhaps I’ve always invested too much in it. Perhaps, with Karl Popper, I am at core uncomfortable with the seeming solution-in-contradiction. But I’m particularly drawn to it as it is so ancient, so inherent – it’s one of the underlying intellectual tools that unifies Eastern and Western philosohpy. It is possibly something innate… even structural, a la Chomsky’s “language faculty.” A dialectical instinct? The insight presented by the dream, if any, is that there exists the possibility of a sort of recursive definition of dialectical practice.

Hmm… recursion as praxis? That’s a whole other post, maybe.

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Caveat: Hace 25 años

I am one of those people who’s a little bit distrustful of facebook. I worry about how it “owns” my social network. It’s partly why I mostly stick to posting and maintaining this blog, instead, where I more explicitly control the content and can curate its exposure to the world.

Having said that, facebook has proved an amazing experience from the standpoint of how it makes possible the renovation of old friendships, the rediscovery of long-lost friends and acquaintances. The other day I got a message and a “friend request” from someone I hadn’t heard from in 25 years – she’d been a good friend of mine when I lived in Mexico City. She’d invited me to meet her family and relatives in El Salvador, too, and I had gone in early September, 1986 – at the height of the civil war there. I remember going through army and guerrilla checkpoints, and the eerie normalcy of helicopter gunships flying overhead and truckloads of armed men racing down the highways.

She’d been a student of mine (although older than me) in my volunteer English class (that I gave at my workplace), but because of our friendship, she ultimately became one of my most important Spanish teachers. Even today, I would say some of the verbal “tics” of my colloquial Spanish have recognizable echoes of her use of the language.

I suppose I’m thinking of this in part because that summer and fall in Mexico City were the point in time when I feel I reached that “critical mass” of linguistic fluency. And it happened so quickly. And my current efforts to learn Korean are clearly hampered in part by the lack of any such parallel “teaching” friendship in my current life’s constellations.

Here is a picture, which I scanned some years ago, showing me and her and some of her relatives on the pier in La Libertad, El Salvador. I am standing a bit off to the side on the left, looking a little bit dazed (which was a frequent expression for me during that strange, immersive, whirlwind trip). I think it’s funny that my hairstyle looks like a Korean pop-star’s or something. Sorry that the picture is pretty poor resolution – it is ancient and scanned.

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Caveat: A blogging in which I awake from a dream that I had returned to Hongnong…

…only to find that Hongong Elementary had become surrounded by a primeval forest.

I wandered up and down somewhat familiar halls, but each time I looked outside there were only trees and ferns and streams and the peering eyes of barely-seen animals.  There were very few students – it was summer vacation.  I saw one girl, a 2nd-grader who I recognized, but she was too busy talking on her cellphone to even notice me.

I then saw the principal.  I bowed to him appropriately, but he didn't recognize me.  I went to the cafeteria, and only teachers were there.  It was dark inside, because the windows were all covered by thick, lush, green vegetation.  The vegetable garden on the west side of the cafeteria was shadowed by immense, ancient, gnarled trees, but the field to the north had been replaced by a face of rock, strewn with wet moss and miniature waterfalls and tiny purple flowers.

I saw fellow-foreign-teacher Moyer, and another group of foreigners who were ignoring him and who I didn't recognize.  I went over to speak to them, and one woman said she thought she knew who I was.  I said to her that she looked familiar, too.  I sat down to eat the standard Hongnong cafeteria lunch – some kind of soup, rice, not-so-good kimchi, one or two other banchan.  But there was canned iced coffee, too.

Suddenly I was uninterested in eating – I felt compelled to leave.  I made my way to the main entrance of the school and walked outside.  I had to walk across a log across a stream where the soccer field should be.  At the log bridge, I ran into Mr Lee and Mr Choi, but I was in too much of a hurry to stop and speak to them.  They called after me.  I went up a steep mountain path, and suddenly I came to a parking lot paved in discarded plastic containers.  And suddenly I was at Mad River beach, which is west of Arcata.  It felt unnaturally warm, though, and there were still too many trees around.  And then I was running, barefoot, alternating on redwood forest trails and the narrow one-lane, perfectly straight Arcata bottomland roads.  The old asphalt of the road felt rough and real under my feet.  It was raining.  And there were Koreans looking at me curiously – why is that man running barefoot?  I felt like a wild monkey in a wildlife park.  I felt free and afraid.

I woke up and had rice and kimchi for breakfast – I stir it together with some seasoned salty seaweed and a dollop of bibimbap sauce and a bit of cooked egg that I'm trying to eat before it goes bad, as kind of poor-man's bibimbap.  But I had canned iced coffee, too.  The summer morning sun is glaring in my window.

Caveat: Christifori’s Dream (Michelle Undreaming)

What I’m listening to right now.

Eleven years ago, this week, Michelle committed suicide. We were separated, but we hadn’t really figured out if we were divorcing or not. It was a hard time, obviously. I’d spent nearly two years away, first in Alaska and then in L.A. where my dad was, while Michelle and Jeffrey were still living in Lansdale, Pennsylvania. Our last phone conversation included the words, “Are we getting divorced?” to which the other of us answered, “I don’t know.” She also uttered the phrase, “There’s a better place for me than here.” I kind of knew where her mind was.  But what could I do?

This piano piece by David Lanz was never really one of my favorites, but Michelle was deeply sentimental about it. She once told me, eerily, as we sat cuddled on the sofa in better times, “I hope I die to this music.” I could be misremembering, but I think this was, indeed, what she may have died to – it was in the CD player in the bedroom where she took her fatal collection of pills. This is hard information to dwell on. So I call this piece “Michelle’s Suicide Music.”

pictureFor a person who doesn’t believe in ghosts, I’ve accommodated Michelle’s ghost with a great deal of faithfulness and peculiar ritual behavior. Once I dreamed that she (her ghost) was stuck at the Incheon Airport, having come looking for me. One day shortly after that, I took the bus out there to show her where I was. And in the fall of 2009, when I had the chance to pass through Philly, I stopped by Quakertown, where she died, to see if her ghost was there.

Sometimes I feel as if she’s looking over my shoulder. I don’t feel she’s angry. More just tagging along, curious to see what I’m doing with myself. Other times I feel as if she has found her “better place” and still others, that she’s this seething knot of sadness and regret. I’m sure mostly these are all my own projections onto what was once her.

Picture: circa Christmas, 1994, visiting my father’s house where he used to live in Temple City (next door to the house he grew up in, in fact). Jeffrey was, perhaps, bored, but Michelle was really happy during those times – we’d exchanged our “secret vows” the preceding month, when I’d returned from my 6 months in Chile.

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Caveat: Happy Bloomsday

pictureToday is Bloomsday. Hope it’s a good one. 

His (Bloom’s) logical conclusion, having weighed the matter and allowing for possible error?

That it was not a heaventree, not a heavengrot, not a heavenbeast, not a heavenman. That it was a Utopia, there being no known method from the known to the unknown: an infinity renderable equally finite by the suppositious apposition of one or more bodies equally of the same and of different magnitudes: a mobility of illusory forms immobilised in space, remobilised in air: a past which possibly had ceased to exist as a present before its probable spectators had entered actual present existence.

A Utopia. See? And Joyce’s Ulysses ends: “…and yes I said yes I will Yes.”

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Caveat: The Ajummocracy

So, after about a six month hiatus, I’ve finally resumed my Korean-rom-com-drama-watching habit. The show I selected to take up is not really as likable as most of my previous efforts – in fact, it’s a bit of a struggle not to end up just despising every single character in this show. But I’m sticking with, partly for that exact reason – I think it’s maybe innovative precisely in just how deeply flawed all the characters are.

And yet it manages to match most of the Korean rom-com conventions quite well, despite this. And maybe my perception of flaws is culturally related – which is to say, Koreans may not perceive the characters as all equally as deeply flawed as I do.

pictureThe show in question is 내조의 여왕 [nae-jo-ui yeo-wang = Queen of Housewives]. The title already tells you just how atrociously tight to every conceivable bad Korean stereotype this show manages to stay. And as usual, I don’t want to post here an in-depth plot summary, as it’s not really interesting to me to try to do so, and I don’t want to spoil it for those interested in watching it.

It’s quite complicated. There’s a sort of “love hexagon” going on: three married couples, A-B, C-D, and E-F. But E and C love B, D loves A, A might love D too, but is loyal to B. F despises B because B was mean to her in high school, so nobody likes F, but she’s the nerd girl I thought I should feel the most sympathy for, but she’s the villain. E is A’s boss, and C is E’s boss, but C hates his wife D, it was an arranged marriage. Etc.

There’s lots of interesting moments of self-reinvention and intentionally symbolic behavior – i.e. the characters engaging in symbolism in a sort of self-aware way. There’s a resurrection scene like that, in episode 5 or 6, I think. B digs a grave and lies down in it with husband A, and they have a deep conversation. Then they both sit up, and resolve to do their best, moving forward, despite the obstacles.

I understand that A and B are supposed to be the protagonists, but B’s cruelty early in the story line is close to unforgivable, and she seems shallow and painfully self-centered. Her husband A has a heart of gold but is clearly dumb as a rock. He dances along from one out-of-control crisis to the next, never seeing anything coming.

Lastly, my favorite website for downloading these dramas (which shall remain nameless, here), has disappeared from the internet – which is partly why I dropped my drama-watching habit. The website posted free copies of the dramas with English subtitles, but I suppose the copyright police have taken them down. Fortunately, there is now a commercial website in the US that offers subtitled Korean drama, called mvibo.com. So I’ve broken down and started paying for the privilege of having subtitles. I hesitate to recommend it, though – the ironical act of sitting about 5 blocks from the MBC studios headquarters and watching streaming MBC content from some website in America means that the streaming quality is quite poor: the tubes under the Pacific are clogged with dead fish from the radiation in Japan, maybe. I wish I could figure out how to find the subtitled content from a Korean website – but I’ve given up hope on that.

So, you’re still wondering: what’s the ajummocracy? Ajumma [아줌마] is a Korean word used to refer to a particular type of middle aged or older woman, generally in an assertive, forceful sort of aspect. The ajumma represents the matriarchal “power behind the throne” that everyone says exists behind the monolithic facade of Korean patriarchy. Like all cultural stereotypes, it has some grains of truth, of course. I have coined the term “ajummocracy” for the concept of “government by ajummas.” The idea is that Korean women do, in fact, wield considerable political power, even in deeply traditionalist and Confucian (or pseudo-Confucian – this is important but I don’t want to get into it here) contexts. But they do so by manipulating their “men” behind the scenes. Again, I’m not endorsing this – I’m talking about cultural stereotypes. And it’s an interior cultural stereotype. That’s important – ajummas refer to themselves within this context, both deprecatingly and with pride. There is, in fact, an “ajumma pride” movement in Korea. Yes – really.

Back to the drama. This drama is perhaps the best encapsulation, in rom-com format, for that cultural stereotype. Every single female character is manipulative and ambitious. Every single male character is inconstant, mercurial, and temperamental. Each man submits, at some level, to his wife in private, while in public, they play macho games that seem to be either ghost-reflections of the ajumma politics or just male ranting and venting without consequences.

I do not suffer under the delusion that this portrait of Korean society is “real.” But it’s deeply interesting to me, the same way that reading Calderon de la Barca’s or Lope de Vega’s Spanish Golden Age dramas are deeply interesting, as each so transparently display all kinds of fascinating cultural detritus.

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Caveat: What On Earth

This short animated movie made a huge impression on me when I saw it, as a child, on the big screen, at the Minor Theater in Arcata. I’m guessing it was 1972 or 73, maybe. I never forgot it, although I forgot (or never knew) its title. And the other day, surfing the internet, I found it. It’s still awesome.

pictureI remember we used to go to movies at the Minor and then go to a restaurant called the Epicurean afterward, where I was strangely addicted to these peculiar vaguely counter-cultural sandwiches that included chopped lettuce, cream cheese, and olives.

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Caveat: …and no matter what, don’t think about elephants

Another excellent comic from “pictures for sad children.”

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Now, take the concept above, please, and invert it. Sorta. Make it something wonderful, something positive, that you’re not supposed allow to change your behavior. It’s not a bomb – it’s the potential loss of nirvana.

I have a weird theory that this is how enlightenment works. Or salvation. Or grace. It’s something that changes everything, but you’re not really supposed to change what you do – because it’s what you’ve been doing, that brought it on.

… and no matter what, don’t think about elephants, either.

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Caveat: Don’t Look Now…

I had dream in which I was riding around Ilsan in a minivan with some people I didn't know.  The streets were dirty, more like Yeonggwang than Ilsan, and there was a row of decrepit and unhappy-looking palm trees along the street, such as you see in 2nd tier urban aglommerations here at the southern end of the peninsula but almost never in Seoul, where the few-degrees-colder climate seems to put a stop to such fantasies.  I said I needed to stop at a bank.

We stopped at a bank, but it was only a collection of ATM machines – there were no employees inside.  I went to an ATM machine, but there was nowhere to put my ATM card – no slot.  The machine was very new and large touch-screen display.  But how could I use it without knowing where to put my card?  I couldn't find an "English" choice on the screen, either.  I walked to the next machine – same problem.  I turned around to see that one of the men from the minivan was following me around as I tried to find an ATM that had a slot for my cash card.  He had a black and white beard (beards are very unusual in Korea).  I tried to explain my problem, and he smiled sympathetically but had no useful advice. 

I decided, in my dream, to go back outside.  I walked over to the minivan with the bearded man, but some policemen had showed up.  They were "inspecting" the minivan, and arguing with the driver.  Suddenly, a man jumped out of the back of the minivan and took the policeman's wallet and ran off toward the bank.  As the policemen turned around, the back of the van opened and 3 or 4 Mexicans (yes, Mexicans) jumped out and ran off among the apartment buildings of Ilsan.  One of them was a grandmother.  Whaaaa? 

That's when I woke up.  What does this dream mean?  It means I shouldn't go to sleep listening to NPR with reports on Arizona immigration enforcement and the financial crisis. Or maybe it was the pizza I ate.

Yesterday I had dinner with my fellow foreigners-in-Yeonggwang at the Pizza Club in Yeonggwang.  Dan is also leaving, returning home to Oregon.  Donna (the other f-in-YG from my April "cohort") has renewed at her school, and is therefore staying.  I will miss these people, although I acknowledge I didn't socialize with them that much.    Perhaps some of them will come visit with me, some weekend, in Seoul.

Caveat: Gathering Lint

I had a very strange dream.  I was gathering lint. 

I was on my hands and knees, on a carpeted floor (itself rather alien, given how rare carpeted floors are, here in Korea), picking up little bits of lint.  Once I'd gathered a small handful, I'd stuff it into a plastic "Family Mart" (convenience store chain, here) bag.  Then I'd get down and get more lint.

I wasn't the only one doing this, in the dream.  I had students and friends helping me.  There was a lot of lint to be gathered.

That was the whole dream. It was stunningly vivid.  And utterly pointless.

OK.  What the hell does a dream like that mean? 

Caveat: A brief sojourn aboard Starship Ilsan

I’ve written before about what a strange place Ilsan is. I’ve compared it to a space-station, because of its modern artificiality. I’ve described it as “Sim City” because of its regular and somewhat boring urban plan. Its upper-middle-class, highly educated and “aspirational” demographics make it rather unique in my experience of Korean places, too.

pictureI went up over the weekend for a very brief visit to drop off my paperwork for my visa renewal with my new boss, for my new hagwon job that will start May 1. I was walking around this strange place that feels like “home.” It’s as different from Hongnong as Iowa is. It’s not even like the rest of Seoul, although I know there are other enclaves around Seoul, other “new cities,” that resemble Ilsan. But Ilsan seems unique because of its scale (more than half a million residents) and the vast regularity of its grid-like layout on basically flat land (in and of itself rather hard to find in Korea). Manhattan-on-the-rice-paddy.

I had a new insight, on Saturday, as regards my own strange “destiny” with respect to Ilsan. When I was young (a child) I would often draw maps of imaginary places. Ilsan, in fact, has some rather striking resemblances to the kinds of “designed” or “engineered” places that I often tried to create, based on my rather utopian-yet-gritty (if that’s possible), naive conception of urbanism – recall that I grew up in a small town and my relationship with cities was intense (I loved them even as a child) but limited (my parents did not love them).

So my destiny, in Ilsan, lies only in that it resembles a kind of “city as I imagined it” as opposed to being a “real” city. Perhaps this is also similar to (but not causally connected to) my strange feeling that Korean is a a “langauge as I imagined it” as opposed to a “regular” language, too. Not to deny the fundamental, external reality of either the Korean language or of the city of Ilsan. Just that they have certain striking predecessors in my imagination, and hence I feel a weird connection to them.

Now… if only I could “figure them out.”

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Caveat: there is so much to learn

I dreamed last night that I was starting a new job.  That's really logical, given that I've traveled to Ilsan to meet with my new boss to work out some paperwork on getting my visa renewed.

But in the dream, the new job was not my "real" new job.  It was something like one of my old computer-related jobs:  database design, business systems analysis, web-based application support. Nevertheless, the job was in Korea.  In Ilsan.  My new coworkers were Koreans, and they were showing me around the building where my new job was, and we were bowing to various bigwigs, per appropriate Korean custom.

And then they insisted that I see the mall attached to the building.  We were walking around an Ilsan-like mall (like the one here called Western Dom), but my dream coworkers were my new coworkers at Hongnong, Ms Lee and Mr Goh, along with other various Hongnong teachers.  Despite that, we were talking about databases and annoying end-users of data-intensive websites, and making sure that code prevents SQL injection, and how to make stored procedures effecient when you couldn't know which search parameters you were going to get ahead of time.  Yes, that kind of thing.  Although it seemed like they were insisting I should know more about Korean history, too.

But then, in the mall, some woman came up to us and said we should take a class about the mall.  "A class?  About the mall?"  I asked.  "Yes, there is so much to learn about this mall," she insisted, excitedly.  So we went to the class, where we got pitched a neverending spiel about all the different stores and restaurants to be found in the mall.  This was so boring, I woke up.

What… did I fall asleep with the television on?  No. 

Dreams are strange, and even when they appear to be meaningless, they nevertheless reek of some obscure meaning.

Caveat: The Godly Fowl Next-Door

The church next-door to my current apartment (which is just across the school-yard from the school where I work) keeps chickens and ducks.  The roosters here are very vocal.  There was a reliable rooster or two that I could hear in the predawn hours at my last apartment, in Yeonggwang, but they were farther away.  These are quite literaly located on the other side of my east-facing wall, in a little barnyard behind the church. 

I've been a little bit puzzled by the idea of a church keeping chickens and ducks.  Is this an economic undertaking?  Is it a charity undertaking (i.e. housing for displaced parishoners' fowl)?  Is it insteaad something related to the Sunday school?  Regardless, I don't necessarily object.  I heard roosters consistently during my years living "on the hill" in Highland Park, in Northeast Los Angeles.  I like the counterpoint the ducks provide, too.

Tonight, I'm going to rush up to Ilsan, to try to sort out some paperwork related to securing a smooth transition to a new visa for my new employer, where I'll be starting May 1st.  The end of my time at Hongnong Elementary is looming.  It will be a bittersweet departure.  Yesterday I felt so much joy and delight in the children's company, and I know I'll miss them.

I've developed a lot of strong, almost parental-feeling attachments to individual kids:  hyper Jeong-an who never sits still, serious Ji-min who tries to direct the class, the two madcap Do-hyeons who both always volunteer for anything, sweet Ha-neul who sadly reported she had to leave class early, the princesses Ha-jin and Ye-won who gossipped about their homeroom teacher to me, shy Jae-won who showed off his new cellphone, assertive Hye-jeong who yelled "teacher!" because I was ignoring her, tiny Seo-yeon who didn't want to perform, manic Jae-uk who insisted on performing, earnest Hye-rim who grinned at her high score, judgmental Min-seo who frowned seriously, blue-skies-dreaming Na-hye who said "I'm so happy", ultra-competitive Hui-won who cried because the girls' team lost, helpful Eun-jin who always helps me clean up at the end of class … these are some of the ones that spring to mind from only yesterday's interactions.  Mostly, they're current 2nd and 4th graders, with whom I've evolved very close interactions due to the afterschool program.

Caveat: Why Books of Poetry? What Is Fairness?

I awoke at 2:55 AM from a strange dream.  I was trying to explain to some Korean coworkers that I bought and owned books of poetry.  This seemed crucially important, somehow, yet I was unable to clearly communicate the idea.  And looking into the dream from the moment of awaking, it seemed mostly an absurd undertaking. 

My mother was there in the dream, too, although she said nothing.  More oddly, my Minnesota friend Mark was there, and "playing a Korean" – at least, for the dream – and thus not understanding my linguistic efforts anymore than any of the others.  The Koreans kept trying to change the subject of conversation to my age, my mysterious marital status, my teaching skills or my utterly inexplicable (to them) disinterest in consuming free food simply because it was free.

I felt a lot of anxiety after waking up.  We had yet another hweh-shik last night, and things have been getting tense at my school: yet another, new crisis in the foreign-teacher-housing. This time, anyway, it's more linked to my new fellow-foreign-teacher than to me, but it's nevertheless unpleasant to be around and it's a constant reminder of the ways in which I, too, have felt so mistreated by my school's administration in matters of housing.  I guess I could say that, lately, not a day goes by, these days, when the validity of my decision not to renew isn't constantly reaffirmed.

I'm worried that my school could probably easily find a way to throw some kind of obstacle up to my smooth transition to my new hagwon job that I've committed to for May.  I don't want that to happen, but I can't help but attempt comment to my coworkers, when they ask, about my perception of the unfairness of things with respect to the housing issues (the details of which I'd rather not go into). 

Somehow, these rather frustrating and vaguely fruitless conversations with coworkers, over concepts of fairness and ethical business practices, etc., of which I've been having quite a lot, lately, got translated in my dream into an effort to tell them about my habit of buying books of poetry.  Both ultimately may boil down to something absurd.

A rooster is crowing.  I don't mind that.  Darkness before dawn.  Cold apartment.

Caveat: o beloved megalopolis

[this is just a jotting of a poem.  it’s not meant to be a finished product.  i♥서울]
(Poem #4 on new numbering scheme)

o beloved megalopolis
subways
buses
walking crowds
uncountable kilometers of streets and the writhing snakes of expressways
clogged with cars
strewn with neon
littered with convenience stores like breadcrumbs leading to mountainside neighborhoods
the undergrounds spaces
exhale and seem to breathe
breath slightly sweet of kimchi and cheap perfume
bookstores
malls
walking crowds
of old men spitting
of old women selling hothouse lettuce and radishes and garlic
of children
children playing
riding bikes and scooters
fashionable children
studious children
walking alone at 10 o'clock at night talking on cellphones
cellphones everywhere
smartphones
four bars everywhere
in vacant lots
in factories
in tunnels
on trains
in subway restrooms
talking crowds
fashionable crowds talking on smartphones
dramatically sighing businessmen
drunk laborers
old women yelling
children gazing about happily
japanese tourists milling
foreigners stealthily alienated
tall buildings
short building
the same buildings over and over
marching across the landscape
soldiers on leave
shopping crowds
young women arguing in cafes
boys arguing on street corners
old men arguing in bars
teenagers arguing near schoolyards
the megalopolis argues with itself cheerfully
lovingly
continuously
rhythmically
the city is always there
brand new
unceasing
evolving
incomplete
walking crowds
dreaming crowds
dreaming dreams

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Caveat: 엄청 귀찮아요

I awoke from a very annoying dream. 

In the dream, I was riding a bus in Korea.  Pretty typical.  But the landscape outside was New Zealand.  Not typical – but understandable, given my recent activity.  The collection of people on the bus resembled a cross-section of people I know on facebook:  barely-known fellow-foreigners-in-Jeollanam, old friends, former co-workers, schoolmates from 30+ years ago.  And some Koreans, too.  The bus was stopping at all these small New Zealand towns. 

I was feeling frustrated, because I wanted to go home, to Yeonggwang, and I was beginning to suspect I was on the wrong bus.

More and more passengers got off the bus, until finally, I was the only person on the bus.  And then, the bus stopped not even at a town, but at an isolated farm in a flat part of New Zealand – something like the countryside south of Whangarei, maybe.   And the bus driver announced, in Korean, that we would be taking a break.

In my broken Korean, I asked, for how long. 

The bus driver laughed.  "Until October 25th," he explained.

I felt very angry.  "엄청 귀찮아요!" [That's really annoying!] I protested. The bus driver merely grinned.  I noticed, for only the first time, that he wore a turban.  This seemed rather un-Korean of him, to be wearing a turban.

I spent some time assembling my next sentence.  Finally, I said something that I knew was bad Korean, but suggested the meaning:  "You never said anything.  At the last bus station."

The bus driver laughed again.  "I announced it this morning," he said.

"그렇지만…그렇지만…," [but… but…] I spluttered. I wasn't on the bus, this morning, I wanted to say.  But my linguistic capicity to put this meaning together in Korean was inadequate.

I got off the bus and sat down in the grass, in the hot New Zealand sun.  There were sheep grazing, in the green fields, and bugs buzzing around some flowers planted in a row beside the gravel road.  Some of the flowers had been crushed by the bus's tires, which struck me as really inconsiderate, until I meditated on the possibility this farm belonged to the bus driver.  He just didn't give a damn, I thought.

I'd definitely gotten on the wrong bus – Yeonggwang was not walkable, from here.

Inside the dream, I meditated on novels by Kafka and Witold Gombrowicz.  I decided there was a lesson to be drawn from these novels.

I turned around, and boldly approached the turbaned-yet-Korean bus driver.  "What's for lunch?" I asked.  "Do you have any ramyeon [ramen]?"

Caveat: 16 years ago, a termite that’s choking on the splinters

I was walking to work, and Beck's song "Loser" came around on my mp3 player.  Where does a brilliant line like "'My time is a piece of wax falling on a termite that's choking on the splinters."  It's Dylanesque, certainly.  I always liked this song.

The song evokes strong mental associations of January, 1995, when the song was getting tons of radio time.  I was working nights, at the UPS facility in Northeast Minneapolis.  I would go and throw boxes onto and off of conveyor belts for several hours, each night.  I was feeling very blue collar – I even had a teamster card, because you have to have one to work at UPS, even as a part-timer.  I was also taking classes during the day, trying to fill in some course work for my ongoing graduate school applications.  I was taking a fabulous graduate seminar on semiotics, I remember. 

The most significant thing going on in my life was that that was the point in time when Michelle and I had made the commitment "for better or for worse" to each other.  I had come back from Chile in November of 94, and Michelle and I had moved in together and decided we were most officially a couple.  In a sense, it was a time of optimism and contentment, for me.  I had "settled," perhaps, but it was that point in settling when settling was exactly what I wanted to be doing. 

Every night, driving up the 35W from our duplex apartment off Franlin Avenue, I would hear Beck's song.  "I'm a loser, baby.  So why don't you kill me."  I felt the song was deeply ironic.  I could relate.  Michelle, on the other hand, hated the song.  More importantly, she hated the fact that I liked the song.  It was indicative of low self-esteem, she would argue.  She was right – but I didn't see the big deal.  It was one of our few arguments from that period of our life, which was a sort of desperately poor married bliss, for the most part, at that stage.

Caveat: Fairview Avenue to Dinkytown

Walking to work in the morning, the sun not yet having cleared the hills to the east, with the biting wind, blowing snow, the crunch of ice when the temperature is no longer close to freezing – I am reminded of my last year as an undergraduate, at the University of Minnesota. I was a student there, but I was a commuting student – I lived in a sort of commune of friends in Saint Paul, 10 miles away to the east. Being a commuting, full-time student and working nearly 30 hours a week meant that I didn’t spend much time at home. I would leave before dawn, and I would get home around 11 or midnight, each day. I had no car – I relied on a combination of extensive walking and buses – much like my lifestyle now, here in Korea.

There were many Winter mornings or nights when I would walk the mile along Fairview Avenue from where the house was on Portland Avenue in Saint Paul to where the number 16 buses ran along University Avenue. With the Minnesota weather so cold, this always made me feel like an arctic explorer. My walks from my apartment to the bus terminal in Yeonggwang along highway 23 feel very similar, these days. Both hikes have the feel of being an arctic explorer of a bustling suburban wasteland. Sounds about right.

pictureI used to set up in the Expresso Royale in Dinkytown, in Minneapolis. That’s where I did my studying back then. I never studied at home. Just like I did my graduate degree in a certain cafe on Locust Street in West Philadelphia. Now that I think about it, I believe the Expresso Royale wasn’t called that name, back then. But it utterly escapes me what its name used to be. It was – and remains – the archetype college cafe, for me, even now. Although its more recent incarnations are less funky and more gentrified, it’s still there and still hospitable. Back in the 80’s, it was open 24 hours a day, and there were several times when I ended up studying all night there, not so much in the desperation of a typical student all-nighter but because I’d missed the last 16 bus back to Saint Paul, and rather than walk home 10 miles in 0 degree (F!) weather, I would just put in a night of casual study. There used to be a big shelf with board games, that denizens could use.

I had a couple cafes in Ilsan that I would frequent, in similar spirit. Most places that I have lived, there have been cafes – or rather, I have found them – and I have lived in those cafes, more than in any other spot. It’s just my nature. In Ilsan, there was the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf franchise in the La Festa shopping center, only two blocks from my apartment. And there was the Rotiboy, a block down from where I worked. When I lived in Uptown, Minneapolis, prior to that, I would spend many, many hours in the Dunn Brothers location on Lake Street at Humboldt Avenue. Prior to that, there was that rather bland Starbucks in Long Beach, off of PCH a block east of the Circle. Before that, there was my favorite single Starbucks location anywhere, in downtown Burbank, where I must have racked up veritable man-months over the years of working close by. I can work my way backward in the ladder of my life by hopping from cafe to cafe. It’s a continuum of coffee and close reading.

If there’s anything I miss about my many previous incarnations, in my current life, that’s it: there are no real cafes, in Yeonggwang. Not the kinds of places where people hang out for hours and maybe vaguely work or socialize. I will race off to Gwangju, sometimes, only because I’m desperate to spend a few hours sitting in a Starbucks or one of Korea’s many native cafe chains – Hollys is recommendable, if only for their always reliable and free wifi. As I think about what’s next, for me (my current contract is already winding down, with about 3 months left), I wonder if that could be a deciding factor. Probably not – it’s not really an indispensable aspect of my lifestyle – it’s only a much-liked one.

Hmm. I set out to write about Fairview Avenue, and commuting through snow. I ended up writing about cafes. In my mind, because of Expresso Royale and Fairview Avenue, trekking through sub-zero temperatures in blowing snow to get home at night is indelibly linked to the idea of long, enjoyable hours in cafes. Such is memory.

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