Caveat: Around Camp Edwards, To Palm Springs

About once a year, I make a trip out to Camp Edwards. It’s not far. I figured with Andrew here, it was as good a time as any to go look at it.

I was stationed at Camp Edwards, 296th Forward Support Battalion, Bravo Company, 2nd Infantry Division, in 1991. Camp Edwards no longer exists – the US Army closed it in the late 90’s. A few years back, when I went there, the buildings were still there but abandoned, but the last few times I’ve gone, it’s just a vacant lot with a fence around it.

From a block from my house, we got on the #600 bus and that dropped us right at the “front gate” of Camp Edwards, after a wending half-hour bus ride through Gyoha and Geumchon (neither of which really existed in 1991). This is the front gate, below. The bridge structure is the railroad track, now elevated. In 1991 it was at grade level.

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We walked along the fence and I pointed out where the various features of Camp Edwards were located: the dining hall, the barracks, HQ, the warehouse, and the motor pool. Here is a picture of where the motor pool building was – I remember that spindly tall white-barked tree (birch?) that’s kind of in the right of center of the photo, as being in the motor pool’s “front yard.”

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I spontaneously decided that I was feeling healthy enough to try to walk around Camp Edwards. I haven’t ever tried this. I’m sure we circumnavigated the camp at various times on PT exercises and activities back when I was stationed there, including things like our periodic off-post runs. But certainly I’d never tried it since.

So we set off northward down a country lane.

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The country lane led to a farm.

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And it led through some woods.

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And we came to another farm.

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And we saw a Korean farmer in his field.

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Then we got a little bit lost in the woods. Although we ran out of road, we didn’t run out of abandoned chairs.

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After tromping through the brush a bit, I decided I wasn’t up to cross-country hiking, so we went back along the road, and around a small hill and came to a gravesite (which abound in rural Korea).

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We came to an area that I recognized, through 22 years of mental haze, as being the “back” of Camp Edwards. There was a small concrete wall with old machine-gun emplacements, and this gateway, where Andrew posed with his umbrella (it was raining at this point, though not hard).

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We walked along the road, back south, now, having gotten at least halfway around Camp Edwards moving counterclockwise.

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We came to giant “tank trap” of impressive engineering and dimensions.

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I saluted Andrew from inside the tank trap.

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Then we walked up the road and came to a new development called PalmSprings (팜스프링). 

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We passed a Korean mini-mall with the parking in front, American-style. This is sufficiently rare in my experience, in Korea, to be notable, so I took a picture. I believe this is all on land that was formerly part of Camp Edwards.

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Then we walked to Geumchon station and took the train back to Ilsan. In Ilsan, I wanted to wait for a package that was being delivered at KarmaPlus – even though KarmaPlus was closed due to the summer break.

So we stopped and had a very, very decadant lunch at “Burger Sharp,” a restaurant right next door the KarmaPlus building, that’s very popular with the students.

I swear, in 5 years of living in Ilsan and working in this Hugok neighborhood, I have only eaten at this place once or twice. But I figured, what the hey? I’m living somewhat free-and-loose with respect to my normal strictures, lately.

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Then, due to a communication error, we waited for more than an hour for a package that was already there waiting for me. Ah well. I need to improve my Korean so I understand when they tell me these things.

Then we came home.

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Caveat: Cooking

One thing having a visitor (namely Brother Andrew) here has done is that it's ignited my cooking bug. I love to cook, but I often get into lazy ruts of way-too-simple foods when living alone and cooking only for myself. Having someone here, I start getting creative.

Yesterday I made a really tasty tuna salad for lunch, with chopped almonds and an aging nectarine, and ginger and mayo and blackberry vinegar and some leftover curry spice. We slathered it onto Russian rye bread (bought in Russiatown on Wednesday), sliced and toasted. It was hard for me to eat (the toast too crumbly = tongue steering crisis) but very good.

Then for dinner last night I made wilted spinach – in a pan with a few tablespoons of oil, I fried up some onion and chopped almonds (yes I'm getting rid of too many almonds) and lots of garlic and some spices, then added the spinach and turned off the heat. The spinach wilts in the garlicky juices but doesn't "cook." I boiled some tricolor rotini pasta and chopped in some tomato and added a cup of store-bought alfredo sauce from a jar and ground nutmeg.

It was highly delicious – my best cooking since leaving the hospital.

Caveat: Entertaining Brother Andrew

My dear brother Andrew has been so, so good to me. He’s being an excellent nursemaid, provides almost entirely positive moral support, holds my hand when the doctors are mean to me, and makes sure my fridge is full (and then keeps emptying it too).

So keeping Andrew entertained is foremost among my own tasks. Today I feel accomplished in that realm.

Andrew likes to be outside, but not in the city. He’s a forest and country type person.

So, in the morning, I dragged him onto the subway to Yeonsinnae, and then we hiked uphill until we came to Bulgwang Temple and then the entrance to Bukhansan National Park, which sits right in the heart of the northern half of Seoul, a bit the way the Santa Monica Mountains embed themselves in the heart of L.A.

He was clearly pleased when we hiked up into the woods, among the rocks. I left him there, went back downhill, and came home. He came home several hours later.

Some pictures.

The temple.

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Andrew admiring craftsmanship.

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Me sitting on the temple stoop.

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A view of some rocks, from the trail. Andrew likes rocks.

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The view looking back toward Yeonsinnae.

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Andrew on the trail.

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Passing the temple again on the way back down. There was a monk inside, chanting, so I stopped for a while.

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The temple bell tower – but it’s missing its bell.

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Then, this afternoon, I showed him the strangest movie yet, from among my bizarre and eclectic collection. I’ve been showing him a lot of my favorites, but he seemed to rather enjoy this one, especially. I reviewed the movie, Love Exposure, here.

Here are two temple panel paintings, which I’ll post for archival purposes. The first is a bit unusual – it feels like a “placeholder” as opposed to a true painting.

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Caveat: My Canadian Bacon Implant

pictureI’m going to be honest: it’s really pretty gross.

Don’t scroll down and don’t read this post if you are easily grossed out. This is about my wrist, which was the “donor” spot for the material that was used to reconstruct my tongue after the tumor was removed.

The irony, of course, is that a major portion of that tongue reconstruction was lost due to the infection I suffered post-surgery in the hospital. The fact that I have retained a fully functional if somewhat truncated tongue is mostly attributable to my obstinacy and linguistic obsession, so-to-speak. At least one portion of the reconstruction I literally swallowed one day, hardly noticing it, after the second surgery cut it off and left it like a hanging useless bit with nothing to do. I think of my original forearm-sourced donor flesh, only about 10% remains at the root of my tongue – unless I have misunderstood the doctors.

Those same doctors insist, however, that the transplantation, though not entirely successful, was still utterly necessary – as it gave my tongue a critical period when I could “retrain” it to stay straight and forward-pointed in my mouth. Otherwise, it may have healed curled into a knot at the back of my mouth and I would have lost a major portion of my function. I’m inclined to give the whole thing the benefit of the doubt, but recovering my forearm functionality is now a major obsession of mine.

My wrist seems to be healing well, though. Last night, I slept with no bandage on it, for the first time. I woke up with a sprinkling of scab-detritus around me but the wound itself remained solidly closed and fine. I’ve had no infection problems whatsoever at the wrist spot, and it causes only minor discomfort, more due to the severed nerves than due to any actual pain.

But looking at it is difficult. I may never feel entirely comfortable with it out in public – as Andrew remarked while I was still in the hospital, it looks like a small but vicious sharkbite scar.

Frankly, I think it looks like I received an implant made of Canadian bacon in my wrist, that was then crafted through clever scarification to look like a helium balloon floating away in the air. When I look at it, I think of ham.

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Caveat: faux-Victorian wooden space station quest

The dream that I was struggling with as I woke up this morning was not very narrative in structure, more episodic but repetitive. The below is a summary of something that in the dream was more circular.

Andrew and I had ended up wandering around some large underground space (which bears relation to some of our explorations in Seoul yesterday), but I became convinced we were in a space station. Yet, for a space station, or for an underground mall, it was quite strange. Everything was wood, like the interior of a restored wooden faux-Victorian shopping mall – all high ceilings, high Belle Epoque stained glass, wooden floors, balconies and balustrades.

Although the place was very finely  wrought and beautiful, it was overlain by decay and disorder. There were hundreds, if not thousands, of squatters living in the various rooms and halls. There were sleeping bags and tents set up, like an Occupy encampment, and there was IT equipment everywhere, just scattered: racks of servers, racks of routers, wires laid out willy-nilly on the floor. Hippies sat cross-legged with laptops, and would reach out and grab a dangling ethernet cable.

Andrew and I were searching for my Great Aunt Mildred (my mother's mother's sister). Andrew never knew "Aunt Mid" – she's not on his side of the family (recall that Andrew is my half-brother, so his maternal relatives are not the same as my maternal relatives). I was quite close to my Aunt Mid before she died in the early 90s, in a strange way. We shared a passion for left-leaning politics and academic-style speculative sociology, and we had exchanged long series of letters at various times on various topics.

I wasn't sure why we were looking for her, because even inside the dream, I already knew she was dead. At some point, because of this, we shifted the focus of our search to finding our sister.  We were wandering in and out of the maze of interconnected rooms, brilliant with sunlight shining through high windows and glimpses of dark space, too.

I would ask, "Have you seen my sister?" of various random old men eating bowls of rice or hippy children chanting songs in circles.

Suddenly this woman presented herself, very solicitous and manipulative. She was short but she was quite fat, and had a round, Caucasian face with close-cropped gray hair, like a Buddhist nun. Definitely NOT my sister.

"Who are you?" Andrew asked.

"Why, I'm your sister," she said, nonchalantly. She was trying to get us to go through this doorway. The room beyond was dark. Andrew was very sceptical, and was pulling away. I was following along, not out of trust but more a kind of curiosity.

"Where are we going?" I asked.

"Trust me," she said, but there was something disingenuous in her smile.

The whole situation played out again, with slight variations. And again.

Eventually, I woke up.

Caveat: борщ

I want to prevent my brother from growing too bored while he visits. Plus, I have been craving Russian food from my favorite Russian-food restaurant for a long time – well before the diagnosis.

So we took the subway into Seoul and walked to the neighborhood I call Russiatown, near Dongdaemun. Andrew is even more of a Russophile than I am, so I thought he would enjoy this.

This is the restaurant.

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It’s changed names several times over the years, but they always have the same borshcht recipe, which is delicious.

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I also ordered a fried liver stroganoff that was quite good – I can’t believe that I, the incipient vegetarian, was craving liver, but I was. And so I ate it. The other purple stuff is svekolny – a beet and garlic slaw.

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I got extra sour cream on the side. Sour cream is hard to find in Korea. I really enjoyed that food.

Afterward, we walked up to the 청계천 [cheong-gye-cheon]. Andrew wanted a “proof of tourism” picture.

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Then we came home and relaxed. Currently he’s off riding his bike somewhere – did I mention he bought a bike? I didn’t see this as a bad idea – when he goes back to the States, I will inherit the bike – perhaps I will even ride it.

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Caveat: 구렁이 담넘어가듯 한다

Here, I return to my long-standing habit of occasionally trying to translate Korean proverbs. And, for the first time in a long time, this proverb is apropos of nothing in particular.

구렁이      담넘어가듯             한다
gu-reong-i dam-neom-eo-ga-deut   han-da
snake      fence-go-over-seeming do-PRES
Like a snake coming over the fence.

pictureSome people sneak around and get away with stuff. “Like a thief in the dark” is maybe an English phrase with similar usage.

It reminds me of that Bob Dylan song, “Man Gave Names To All The Animals.”

I drew this horrible picture of a sneaky snake sneaking over a fence, using MS Paint, in just under two minutes, so that this fine blog-post could be accompanied by an image.

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Caveat: the stop cancer app

Yesterday afternoon I went to work again, to do more student-speech scoring for the month-end testing. I came home even more exhausted (and hungry) than Monday evening, but brother Andrew had thoughtfully started some dinner so I was quite pleased.

Andrew and I ended up watching a movie (from among my collection of movies, I've been showing him some of my favorites) – this time, we saw The Good, The Bad, The Weird (I've blogged about that movie several times before).

So in fact, I went to bed pretty late. I didn't not experience the blessed, uninterrupted sleep of the previous night. I was restless, and woke many times – more back to a hospital-style sleeping. I'm not sure what's behind that – obviously, tiredness from work isn't the sole factor in providing good sleep.

One snippet of a dream I had (actually from a short nap yesterday afternoon) was funny and worth sharing: I dreamed I was playing with my smartphone (an Android based Samsung Galaxy Tab) and all of a sudden I discovered an app that was labeled "stop cancer." In the dream, I thought, now why didn't I just use this app, instead of all that surgery and stuff? I remember feeling really annoyed, in the dream, that I hadn't found the app sooner. What use is a useful app if it's not well publicized?

Caveat: 고봉산 영천사

Today, Andrew and I set out for a temple I visited a long time ago. I believe it is the “working mountain temple” closest to my home. It’s on the side of a mountain called Gobong-san (고봉산), which is north of the railroad tracks in the part of Ilsan I think of as “old Ilsan”. It is my opinion that this is the “one mountain,” of the various mountains around, that is the best candidate for the origin of the name of the city of Ilsan, which means “one mountain.”
We visited the temple on this mountain called 영천사 [yeong-cheon-sa]. It’s a small, unpretentious working temple. I met a monk there and had an actual conversation with him – I lived in Ilsan, I had been in the cancer center, my brother was visiting. He wished me good health. Then he ran down and told one of the men hanging out near a storage shed, “OMG there’s a foreigner speaking Korean up there!” I didn’t catch the exact words in Korean, but that was the drift of it.

I felt flattered.

I bowed.

Here are some pictures.

Andrew on the trail up the mountain.

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The temple garden.

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Behind the temple outbuilding (monks’ quarters).

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Standing on the stoop of the temple looking toward Tanhyeon towers.

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The main temple building and administrative building to the right.

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A smaller shrine behind the main temple. These are always my favorite places to go to do sitting or prostrations, rather than the main temples. They are dedicated to various saints (bodhisattvas) and I have no idea which one this one was dedicated to – I don’t really see that it matters.

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The interior of that small shrine.

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Andrew took a picture of me doing a few prostrations there.

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I took a picture of Andrew sitting quietly there.

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Looking down on the larger temple from the stoop at the shrine.

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A trail leading up into the forest behind the shrine.

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A buddha in a stone niche near the shrine.

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A very large number of kimchi pots behind the administration building.

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A closed door detail on the shrine.

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I like how in random spots you can find little figurines enacting scenes.

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Some other figurines.

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Here is a picture of a woman getting a drink of water at the public fountain (every temple has one) and a laughing buddha. Slightly out of focus…

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Here is another smaller temple we passed while walking down the mountain.

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A jang-seung [장승 = traditional shamanistic totem] I saw amid some flowers on the main road at the base of the mountain at the end of the trip.

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Here are a ton of “temple-panel paintings” that I snapped. I love these things and am trying to build up a collection of images of them.

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Caveat: Drug Scarf

My drugs come prepackaged in little “breakfast/lunch/dinner” packets that come attached in a long chain of little cellophane packages. I was talking to Andrew about the fact that my ugly, deformed neck requires me to adopt some new fashion – turtlenecks or gauche scarves.

He suggested I could use my string-o-drug-packets as a scarf: drug scarf!

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Caveat: Everyone Matters

A bit advertastic, but this video my brother found is worthwhile viewing all the same, and very, very relatable given my own recent experience.

Caveat: Yes, I actually went to work today

I worked about a half-day, scoring month-end student speech tests and interacting with all my long-missed students quite a bit, and several short meetings with Curt relevant to planning August and what kind of teaching load I might have.

I felt wonderful to see all my students, and as usual, I came away more positive than going in. That's what I'm in this job for. But I'm quite tired now. I'll blog more, later.

Caveat: 폭력을 당해서 이 회사를 떠나고 싶습니다


pictureI have been intending to write this blog entry longer than any other unwritten blog entry.

The story behind it is that maybe 4 years ago, I ran across a book in a bookstore entitled Quick and Easy Korean for Migrant Workers. Of course, my interest in immigration policy combined with my interest in the Korean language made the book a guaranteed “win.”

I was prompted to write this entry now, after so many years of having it just beyond my consciousness in the back of my mind, because I’d pulled the book off my shelf to show to my brother Andrew, who is visiting.

After spending some time with the book, I discovered some really revelatory and interesting phrases. Of all of the worst of these phrases, however, this phrase, from page 82 (image below right), takes the cake. I remember very hard and yet bittersweet laughter because of reading this 4 years ago.

폭력을         당해서          
pok-ryeok-eul dang-hae-seo    
violence-OBJ  experience-CAUSE
이    회사를       떠나고     싶습니다

i    hoe-sa-reul tteo-na-go sip-seup-ni-da
this company-OBJ leave-CONN want-FORMAL
I want to leave this company because I have experienced violence.

pictureI rather like the poetic version given by the googletranslate, too (although like most of googletranslate’s oeuvre, it is incoherent): “Five people I’d like to leave the company of violence.”

Or as the book translates it: I want to leave this company because I was beaten.
This is a sorry commentary on the state of migrant labor in Korea. Foreigners working in the hagwon and EFL biz don’t really realize that we are truly elites, no matter how badly we are treated.

 

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Caveat: Façades

I awoke from an evaporating dream-scene.

I had taken the light-rail to the University of Minnesota. That places the dream in a hypothetical future, as the light-rail line going through campus is still under construction as far as I know, and certainly was never a feature of getting to the U that was a part of my experience of it in the 80’s and 90’s.

I stood on the Mall facing Northrup Auditorium, and it was a hot, overcast, humid day just as we have been experiencing here in Seoul. I began to look around more carefully. The campus seemed weirdly deserted. Was it a holiday?

Then I noticed that the Walker Library looked strange. I went closer, and realized it was just a “false front” – like those buildings made for Hollywood movie sets that have only the façade and nothing behind. Looking around, all the buildings were like that.

Looking back toward Northrup, I saw that it, too, was a false front. And so I walked up the stairs and tried to peer around to see what was behind.

What I saw was a breathtakingly beautiful although modestly sized Korean Buddhist temple, the doors wide open and a golden Buddha gazing down. A single monk sat inside the temple, in meditation.

I awoke then and everything dissolved as fiction, like at the end of Garcia Marquez’s 100 Years of Solitude.

Below, a web image found of Northrup, looking toward it from near the front of Walker Library, I would estimate. Northrup is on the left.

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Also, this image of a Buddha inside a temple (from 법륜사, taken by me last September).

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Caveat: return from the riceless wilderness

This evening, I returned from my riceless wilderness, and ate rice – not Korean style, though.

Instead, I made my peculiar “Italian stir fry” where I started with some onions and lots of garlic and oregano and basil, stir fried it in some canola, added brocolli with some precooked rice that was getting long in tooth in the rice cooker, then a dollop of red sauce. It is a bit like what Americans call Spanish rice. The red sauce held the rice grains together making them easier to eat.

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Caveat: ICU Blogged

I have finally given up my perfectionism and hit the publish button on 6 blog entries dated from July 4th through July 6th, which cover my time in the ICU after my major surgery. I may return and “touch up” some of the writing on these entries, or add some deep thought or insight if one occurs to me, but from here on they are public.

Even before the surgery it had been my intention to blog that period of time, but of course having such limited access to “the world” while in the ICU, and only fragments and scraps of paper to work with afterward, has meant that it’s been a kind “retroblogging” effort where I reconstruct my feelings and experiences of the time.

I had harbored some ambitions to cover some very deep topics, because it was an epiphanic time, and very intense (Intensive Care Unit, right?). But there’s only so much I can put together, now.

Just know that it was near the top of my list of intense experiences in my life, and utterly mind-blowing. Nor were the epiphanies merely transitory – I am confident they will grow and branch as true epiphanies do, throughout the rest of my life.

ICU First Shift / Joy

ICU Second Shift / Gratitude

ICU Third Shift / Hermitage

ICU Fourth Shift / Lucidity

ICU Fifth Shift / Suffering

ICU Sixth Shift / Kindness

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Caveat: how to know when your nap is finished

Being convalescent from such major surgery, I find myself (re-)discovering and mulling over very simple truths and ideas.

For example:

Q: How can you know when your nap is finished?

A: You wake up.



pictureI have been reading a book by the Vietnamese monk, Thich Nhat Hanh, The Heart of the Buddha’s Teaching. It’s not as “mainstream” nor as syncretistic as many of his books – it’s a genuine introduction to Buddhist practice and goes into some detail on the doctrines and dogmas that embellish the history of the tradition.

He’s doing a very good job of addressing one of my primary complaints (or frustrations) with how Buddhist practice is often presented, which is that it seems “obsessed” with suffering, and my feeling that all that dwelling on suffering can’t be good. It was one of the things I least liked about my 10 days as a Buddhist practitioner at the Vipassana retreat in Northern Illinois in December of 2009.

The monk writes, “Our suffering is holy if we embrace it and look deeply into it. If we don’t, it isn’t holy at all. We just drown in the ocean of our suffering.” (p. 9). Later he elaborates: “It is true that the Buddha taught the truth of suffering, but he also taught the truth of ‘dwelling happily in things as they are’ (drishta dharma sukha viharin). To succeed in the practice, we must stop trying to prove that everything is suffering.” (p. 23).

Nhat Hanh goes on to use the metaphor of a mother with a crying baby. What does a good mother do with a crying baby? She holds and soothes and comforts it, while carefully analyzing and solving the possible causes of the crying: hunger, discomfort, frustration, insomnia, disease, etc. Likewise, our suffering is to be recognized and then held and soothed but also analyzed, like a mother with her crying baby.

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Caveat: 홍삼

pictureKoreans love their ginseng (인삼 [in-sam]). It’s a matter of both tradition and national pride (not to mention a profitable national industry, too), and they strongly believe in ginseng’s curative and health-supplementing properties – and then there’s the aphrodesiac cult that surrounds it.

Yesterday when visiting Curt, he bought me a gift of Red Ginseng Extract. The “red” in red ginseng (홍삼 [hong-sam]) refers not to a subspecies of the plant but rather to a result of a specific curing process involving steaming and sun-drying.

The extract comes in little foil envelopes, which you open and then you squeeze the juice out into your mouth. So I got a “one month” set, 30 individual-dose envelopes (see picture below) that I’m supposed to take once-a-day. I opened and took my first extract this morning.

Like most forms of alternative medicine, I harbor my scepticisms. But red ginseng as an anti-cancer agent actually has a double-blind-study paper trail (mostly the work of fanatical Korean scientists trying to justify their traditional medicine – but still) where at least some of the studies have not been rejected on methodological grounds by the established global medical community. And there’s not any evidence of harm from red ginseng. So I figured, what the hey – I’m becoming Korean, right?

Straight up red ginseng extract has a strong earthy taste. I have sometimes described it as “dirt flavored.” Being charitable, I would describe it as similar to the aftertaste of strong maple syrup, but with absolutely zero of the sweetness. It’s not horrible, anyway. I had some red ginseng flavored cooking vinegar that went well in certain savory concoctions that I used up a few months back.

Anyway, because Koreans take their Red Ginseng so seriously, it comes packaged (and priced!) like a luxury good (see picture above). I think Curt spent way too much money on this gift – let’s just say, it’s more expensive than an outpatient visit to the cancer hospital by a factor of about 500 (see yesterday’s post).

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Caveat: After Exhilaration… Exhaustion

After the exhilaration of the first two days of post-hospital wears off, I begin to feel the tiredness lurking beneath. After pushing too hard, maybe, today, I feel downright exhausted. The kind of “you’re sick and recovering exhausted” that could be a bad flu but in this case is rather more and less than that at the same time.

pictureStepping out from my apartment, while waiting for Andrew to run back up to get something he’d forgotten, I saw a cicada (right). It was making that mesmerizing loud “weee-wan-wan-waaaan” sound of Asian cicadas.

I stopped by work (KarmaPlus) this morning and straightened accounts with Curt some, and dropped in for 5 minutes with my HSTEPS class, to prove I was alive. I was pleased to be with my students, some of whom I’ve known more than 2 years now.

Then we went to the hospital for an outpatient wound-redressing and short consult. Total charge, after insurance: 200 won (18 cents?). Golly, let me see what I have in my pocket for that.

I learned that I had mis-learned the 10th floor resident doctor’s name, whom I’ve been calling Dr Suh in this here blog – it’s in fact Dr Seok. I learned it when I tried to give him a thank-you card. Oops. I will correct it in the record, but leave this mea culpa here. He is a very kind young man. And I feel like an “old man” that I have to say “kind young man” that way, rather than just “kind man.”

Then, ambitiously, Andrew and I took the bus to Bucheon to see my friend Peter. I thought, how tiring can that be, taking at bus to Bucheon? Once there, very hungry, we splurged on pizza. Which was great – it turned out to be one of the easiest things to eat given my current mouth complications, much as I suspected. The combination of long morning plus bus ride plus heavy lunch, however, left me exhausted. We lounged around Peter’s apartment for a few hours and ended up just coming home.

Now I’m going to take a nap.

Peter’s apartment building allows access to the roof, so despite the smogginess of the day, I took some pictures (below). The building has a rooftop garden.

Looking north (toward Ilsan, way out of view here).

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Looking west.

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Looking south(-ish … maybe more like southeast).

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Looking east.

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Looking at Andrew and Peter.

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Looking at a charming rooftop tree.

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Caveat: Azadas son la hora y el momento

Retrato_de_Francisco_de_QuevedoFUE SUEÑO AYER, MAÑANA SERÁ TIERRA…

Fue sueño ayer, mañana será tierra.
¡Poco antes nada, y poco después humo!
¡Y destino ambiciones, y presumo
apenas punto al cerco que me cierra!

Breve combate de importuna guerra,
en mi defensa, soy peligro sumo,
y mientras con mis armas me consumo,
menos me hospeda el cuerpo que me entierra.

Ya no es ayer, mañana no ha llegado;
hoy pasa y es y fue, con movimiento
que a la muerte me lleva despeñado.

Azadas son la hora y el momento
que a jornal de mi pena y mi cuidado
cavan en mi vivir mi monumento.

– Francisco de Quevedo (1580~1645)

El mensaje tiene un sabor fuertemente budista, a pesar de ser de un católico español del siglo de oro. ¿Debo confesar que he estado meditando sobre la muerte? Pero … de hecho, sí, por lo menos un poco – y, ¿cómo que no?

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Caveat: Put-in-face

pictureThis was a milestone day because it’s the first day I didn’t really take a nap.

I was pretty tired this afternoon after Andrew and I walked around a bit too ambitiously this morning, but when I lay down to nap, my mind was racing and so I decided to just try to forego the nap.

I’m trying to get away from the wake-up-every-2-hours hospital style sleeping pattern. Maybe (hopefully), I’ve exhausted myself enough that I can sleep a full, more-or-less normal night tonight.

I made some pasta with broccoli and red-sauce, with some butter and basil added. Andrew ate it (“put it in his face” in his parlance), and even smiled. And then he did dishes.

 

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Caveat: The 8 Cent Wait

I promised I would tell this story, so here it is.

My check-out from the hospital, yesterday, was bureaucratic, as such things tend to be. But there was a kafkaesque moment that far exceeded the norms of bureaucracy, even.

After settling our account at the discharge counter, we had to go over to the outpatient pharmacy, to receive the medications that the doctors wanted to send home with me. We collected our medicines after about 25 minutes of waiting, only to note that one of the medicines the doctors had had me using in the ward was missing. Did they mean for it to be missing, or was it an oversight that it wasn’t included in the check-out prescription?

The pharmacist consulted with a doctor and the nursing staff on the 10th floor, and concluded that yes, indeed, I deserved this other medicine, too.

But they couldn’t give it to us, because by adding on that extra medicine, our accounts needed to be adjusted and resettled. So Curt and I trooped over to the discharge / accounts counter, drew a number and waited 20 minutes to talk to a representative there. It seemed like they had become short-staffed – perhaps it was lunchtime. Curt pestered the woman at the counter and finally, she produced the new printout.

That’s that printout that I displayed in my prior post about my bill. I’ll add a pointer to the same picture, below.

So on the new, “adjusted” bill which now included the extra medicine, the new total due was… 90 won (see yellow oval, in picture). That’s 8 cents, at current exchange rates.

Curt exasperatedly slapped down a 100 won coin (a Korean dime, more-or-less) on the counter, and the woman made him wait while she fetched change: 10 won (a penny).

Curt shook his head and handed me the tiny, coppery 10 won coin. “Here is a souvenir of your time at this hospital.”

“Gee, thanks,” I smiled, glibly. I pocketed the coin.

And then… we had to go back to the pharmacist and wait another 10 or so minutes to get the extra medicine. So discharge took an hour longer than it might have.

But if that’s the worst the hospital can do, I still insist, elatedly, that Korean Healthcare is NOT broken.

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Caveat: 한국관광공사 곽진광 관광과장

I had decided to do a series of Korean tongue-twisters, in the same way I have been doing aphorisms and proverbs. I haven’t done one in a while but I have a few waiting still in the “almost-ready-to-post” box, which I’m cleaning out now that I’m home.
한국관광공사                    곽진광          관광과장
han·guk·gwan·gwang·gong·sa    gwak·jin·gwang gwan·gwang·gwa·jang
korea-tourism-corporation     Gwak-Jin-Gwang tourism-manager
The Korean Tourism Organization’s tourism manager, Mr Gwak Jin-gwang

pictureIt’s not a sentence, just a noun phrase. This tongue-twister isn’t that hard, except that I don’t have full confidence that 곽진광 [gwakjingwang] is just a name. If it’s a not a name, then my translation is poor and missing something important, but assuming it is a name it makes perfect sense, so I’m going to go with that.

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Caveat: The Bill (Or… Korean Healthcare Is NOT Broken)

Well, it turned out the estimate I posted before was radically wrong. Curt’s report to me, sometime back, that the running total was 40,000,000 won ($40,000) was based on a misunderstanding on his part.

The bill, yesterday, was so affordable as to be mind-blowing. Like any medical bill, it’s hard to understand – further complicated by the fact of it being in Korean. I have placed the important figures in colored ovals in the scan below, in the upper right quadrant.

The pre-insurance total (red oval) was 10,807,626 원 ($9700 at current exchange). That’s what I was expecting to pay after insurance. And the after insurance total (green oval) was 2,806,960 원 ($2500).

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This is just mind-numbing. Why does healthcare cost so much in the US? It’s not like they were using substandard equipment, here, with me. It’s not like Korean doctors are underpaid – they all drive BMWs. It’s not like Korean taxes are impossibly high – they’re lower than in the US. I guess I’ll go on a more detailed rant about this, another time. But for now, just consider: 23 days of hospitalization, over 10 hours of Operating Room time, 46 hours of ICU time, uncountable doctor visits, 2 PET scans, CT scans, an initial radiation treatment, MRI. All in that bill.

I love Korea.

The yellow oval for 90원 (8 cents) deserves its own blog entry – it’s a very funny story. I’ll write it up later.

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Caveat: On Hospital Time

Just like in the hospital, I woke up at 4:30 am, wide awake, too hungry to go back to sleep.

I lay in bed for a few minutes, and then said, well my body's hungry. That's a good thing.

So I got up, got some yogurt. Just like in the hospital. But now I'm having some tea, too, and I have the freedom to turn on my computer and gaze out at the world.

I will nap later – I promise. Meanwhile, hello world.

Caveat: Spinach Salad

I was craving salad.

I was craving the making of things.

I was trying to get back on my regular schedule, with the “dinner” meal at around 11 pm, because that’s when I get off work, normally.

So after a 4 km walk with Andrew in the misty, humid hot darkness around part of the lake at Lake Park, we came back, took the stairs to my home on the 7th floor, and suddenly, I was in my kitchen making salad. Ah the joys of normalcy.


pictureWe have a lot of leftover fruit from the hospital. I decided to start with a chutney instead of making a dressing. I chopped some apple, carrot and nectarine into a squirt of Korean blackberry vinegar and a few tablespoons of grapefruit juice from a small juice bottle I’d bought earlier. I added some powdered ginger, some dried mint leaf, and a dash of clove. stirred together, it makes a simple chutney.

I washed off fresh spinach and added a few teaspoons of sesame oil, sliced in some cherry tomatoes and then ussd a few spoonfuls of this chutney to make for a perfect salad.

The stems proved challenging to my chewing mechanism – the eating was, like many eatings, a slow slog. But it was a damn good fresh spinach salad, and the making of it was even more satisfying, still.

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Caveat: And Then I Was Home

pictureBeing “home” means so many things. But one thing that it means is that I can sit down and with a few clicks at my desktop computer, I can begin to type effortlessly and painlessly in way that has been denied me by the circumstances of my recent captivity at the cancer hospital. Yet immediately, facing the square white box on my blog host’s website, the question formost in my mind is simply, “now that it’s easy, what should I say?”

Nothing comes to mind. I’m pleased to be home. After having a lunch of somewhat-craved 콩국수 (kongguksu = cold noodle soup in soy-milk-broth) with my coworkers, Andrew was alarmed to find me in a mood to clean and shop and rearrange furniture as soon as we got home. My nesting instinct kicked into overdrive, as I was wanting to reestablish my presence in my own small space affirmatively and unambiguously. So I did.

And then, exhausted, I went to sleep. In my bed. Which is nothing more than a thin blanket with a sheet over it, on the floor: I sleep Korean-old-person style, and have done so for years. It was, I swear, the most amazing, most comfortable, most at-ease sleep I have ever had. The nap lasted a bit over an hour, and now, here I sit, facing my blog and my world with undoubtedly altered eyes, an altered worldview.

pictureBut I’m not so changed as all that. My coworkers said I had become “extroverted.” I could see how they could perceive that: in my moment of triumphal discharge from the hospital, I was elated, effusive, energetic, and stunningly positive – not traits they necessarily associate with me. In fact though, what they were seeing is something I have had and been all along – what they were seeing was my “classroom personality,” which I have deployed judiciously with my students for years. But ever since going into the hospital, because of the “always on” social nature of being in that communal space, I had turned on that “classroom personality” full-time. Always on. It was possible partly because I could take quick naps between interactions.

Curt said I need to spread my happiness out – “don’t use it all up now. You need it for the long run,” he suggested. He’s right. But he’s wrong in that I already had it – I was just being parsimmonious with it, before, and tended not to use it much outside the classroom. That, I suspect, will change – or at the least, I want it to. I think I can.

I’m not sure I’m making a lot of sense. For now, I’m happy to be home, I’m resting, I’m nesting, I’m enjoying having the freedom to get up and make a cup of tea for myself in my own diminutive kitchen.

I’ll share more later. Only a few hours ago, Andrew snapped this candid picture of me being injected with positron-emiting chemicals in preparation for a PET scan.

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caveat: not for claustrophobics

i went to my “practice” radiation session today. they tested their gadgets on me but also prepared my restraint system. a set of customized plastic molds were prepared shaped to my head and torso.

when strapped down inside them, i have zero freedom of movement. ZERO. i can only breathe. i cant twitch. i cant open my eyes. i cant turn my neck even a millimeter. i cant swallow or flex my tongue.

just breathe.

machines hum. the automated table moves me in and out of the ring-o-xray-zappers. doctors and technicians talk.

breathe in. breathe out. my training in meditation is the most useful skill ive ever acquired.

when they unstrapped me the doctor grinned. “you passed. you got your license.” he said i did perfect.

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caveat: the amazing cancer hospital diet plan!

hospital life has many small rituals. every morning i weigh myself and record the result in the log by the scale.

since check in until now i have lost slightly over 7 kilos – thats 15 pounds in just over 3 weeks. although its a bit expensive, i can highly recommend cancer as a great, reliable way to drop those pesky extra pounds. try it today!

caveat: photo from orbit 22

always cheerful as she bustles about with her mops and bags and buckets, this is my favorite of the cleaning staff. she seemed very surprised at my desire to include her in my picture-taking mania. i tried to tell her in my bad korean that she helped a lot, cleaning floors or bathrooms or bagging up laundry. she ran away from my camera but i lingered patiently and so she came back and smiled.

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