Caveat: Bobo County Redux

It was a very long and busy day.

I taught two actual classes – meaning officially assigned classes for which I had to have lesson plans, take attendance, etc. Although I did some substituting and visits to classes this past week, these were my first real classes since the Thursday prior to entering the hospital, which was at the end of June.

In both classes, I made part of my lesson a presentation of my cancer surgery experience. Over the years, I’ve learned that most middle-schoolers are utterly enthralled by the health problems of others, especially when conveyed as “true stories” – and nothing could be truer than pointing to my still very visible bandages and scars and saying “here” and “here.” So as far as captivating attention, I’ve rarely had a better lesson plan – but it was essentially a one-off success, in that respect.

I made a video recording of one of my presentations – to my “special Saturday” 7th graders. If it’s appealing enough, I might edit and post it – we’ll see. I really like those kids – they are what I describe as my “not advanced but always interested” class. They’re fun without being inclined to burnout, like more intense, high-level students can get sometimes.

After that, I talked with Curt and some other teachers for a while. Then Curt and I drove over to see my new apartment.

“Whaaa?” you might say.

Yesterday, out of the blue, Curt said, “Hey Jared. Do you want to upgrade your apartment?”

I said, “Of course.” I’d been recently experiencing apartment envy, after seeing my friend Peter’s apartment in Bucheon.

Next thing I know, we’re planning for me to move into an apartment in the Urim Bobo County building. It’s definitely a nicer building – newer, cleaner, and the apartment is marginally bigger (3.2 meters x 4.8 meters versus my current 3.0 meters by 4.2 meters) but more importantly, has a much better floor plan and more closet and storage space than my current apartment. Furthermore, I like the location better – it’s more “urban” and downtownish, being in the heart of what passes for downtown in Ilsan, which has always been my tendency. As a small bonus, it’s about 1 km closer to the cancer center, which is of course convenient given my new lifestyle as a cancer patient.

The fascinating irony is that this exact same Urim Bobo County building was my first apartment building when I came to Ilsan in 2007. Life keeps spinning me in circles.

Here is a picture of my new (old) apartment building, taken in September, 2007 – it was literally the first picture I took, my first day in Korea – really! The building still looks exactly the same. My new apartment is on the 9th floor (1 down from top). I will move there very slowly over the next several weeks, between cancer radiation treatments, I guess.

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After spending some time with Curt preliminarily checking out and cleaning the new apartment, I came back home, collected Andrew, and he and I went there and cleaned a little bit and evaluated some more. Then we met my friend Peter for dinner – Thai food – and then that was more like the end of our evening, walking back first to my new apartment and then after a pause there to inspect it with Peter, back to my old apartment.

Interesting things keep happening. Life is good.

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Caveat: 우리가 살고 있는 세상이 꿈인지 현인지 알 수가 없다


pictureI was sharing another of my favorite Korean movies with Andrew, earlier today, so we watched 빈집 (“empty houses”). I really like this movie, but this time around, I was struck by how much of the movie was obviously filmed in Ilsan – I would guess about 50% of the outdoor shots were in neighborhoods and locations within walking distance of my apartment. That adds some interest to the movie, I guess. If you watch it, basically any scene in a flat neighborhood (i.e. no hills) would be Ilsan.

The movie concludes with an epigraph that goes:

우리가 살고 있는 세상이

we-SUBJ live-PROG-PRESPART life-SUBJ
꿈인지 현인지 알 수가 없다..
dream-be-IF presentmoment-be-IF know-FUTPART possibility-SUBJ thereisnot
We cannot know whether the life we live is a dream or incumbent [“real”].

This was kind of hard to translate – because I didn’t let myself go back and look at the translation given in the subtitles in the movie. But I think I got it right – the key is a grammar point on page 55 in my “grammar bible” (Korean Grammar for International Learners) about using two parallel clauses ending in -ㄴ지 with the verb 알다 to indicate “a choice between two uncertain or unknown possibilities.”

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Caveat: Legal For Another Year

Curt and I got our paperwork in order, finally, and headed over to the immigration office to make it all official – my contract and work visa are renewed for another year.

Back at work, I scrambled to record and score some more speech tests – this was for some lower level students that were mostly quite unprepared, which was perhaps the fault of my not-so-successful substitute teacher. I coached and coaxed them through the process, but ended up taking too long and running into the next class.

They're finished now. I've scored and posted almost 50 student month-end speaking test videos in the last 2 weeks – that has been my main responsibility. This business of posting every single student speech is a new idea, one that I'd recommended quite a while ago but which they finally decided to implement while I was in the hospital. I'm pleased with the result, but unhappy with the fact that so far the youtube "unlisted" postings I've been doing are so slow to load it ends up being kind of chimerical for the parents (who are the intended audience of these postings) – they see that the videos are posted but can't get the videos to load to their phones (which is where most of them try to get the videos).

I wonder if the fact that I load the videos to my youtube account (me being an American) means the videos are being hosted somewhere across the Pacific without optimization for viewing here in Korea. I wonder if the videos were loaded under a Korean-based youtube account, would they load better over here? Or is youtube's infrastructure just weak in Korea right now? Popular public videos seem to load fine, but all my "unlisted" videos are really unreliable.

Here is my favorite speech of all the speeches I recorded and scored. My student Somin isn't the most advanced speaker but I like that she puts her own, original thinking into her speech rather than just following a formula. The topic for a lot of the students, this month, was global warming. I know she's really hard to understand, but I do feel really proud of how she's done.

Caveat: Not Really a Complication In My Opinion

That sore throat I woke up with the other morning has progressed into a full-blown head-cold: runny nose, sneezing, coughing, etc. Andrew is a bit worried about it, and I recognize that it is a bit taxing on my immune system so shortly before the start of the radiation.

But I find the whole thing oddly reassuring. It's like the world is telling me: "you're still just a regular guy, you get to get colds because you work with children, so deal with it."

The Cancer isn't a special superpower, it's not an exemption from regular life, it's just something I've had to deal with.

Does that make any sense?

And my thinking is, it's better to have the cold this week, during my "between-horrible-treatments holiday," than next week or the week after that, when I'm doing  the radiation and my immune system is weakened. If this is a normal cold, I'll have worked through it before things start next week. If it's not, or if it's persistent, well, the doctors will recognize that and can make a judgement about whether or not to postpone the start of radiation, if it merits that.

In other words, I don't feel worried by it – just annoyed by it, the way having a cold is always a bit annoying.

I've taken it as a signal to back off my "10 kilometers a day" commitment to adventure. I'll let Andrew explore on his own, and just focus on doing whatever work has for me and relaxing and resting the rest of the time. I am reading almost 10 different books-in-progress now. It's time to actually start finishing one. Heh.

To return to one other point: frequent colds are an automatic part of teaching kids, in my experience. Having received a dozen "oh teacher I miss you!" hugs from second and third graders over the past week, if something was floating around it's inevitable it will glom onto me in my weakened state. Frankly, the hugs were worth it.

Caveat: Tell The World

Over the last several years at Karma, I’ve developed my own EFL debate curriculum. I’m quite happy with it. The working title for all the readers and workbooks I’ve created is Tell the World, with various subtitles, such as Tell the World: Debate Workbook or Tell the World: Debate Topics Reader 1.

Today, Curt set up a meeting between me and a friend he has who works for a Korean EFL publishing house. Does this mean what it seems like it might? Yes it does. We didn’t sign anything, but we agreed to meet again in September, and meanwhile I have some “deliverables” including a draft of my “Debate Topics Reader Level 1” and a “roadmap” of how I see a fully-fleshed debate curriculum working.

The upshot is that I might be publishing a book, soon – for the Korean EFL market.

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[UPDATE some years later: This never happened, except to the extent I self-published using the copy machine at work to support my own teaching. It had been a great idea, though.]

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Caveat: Brian Williams Busts a Mash-up

This is funny.

Comic relief is important, right? That song is old… 1989! It dates me. [In case of future link-rot, it’s a video shown on the Jimmy Fallon show wherein a mash-up of clips of Brian Williams reading the nightly news ends up having him speak the lyrics to Young MC’s classic song, “Bust a Move”.]

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Caveat: the dust drowns the dark clouds

I went to work, and felt some productiveness, but then my work computer was
annoying me (Windows XP, in 2013? Seriously?), so I went back home – because I have no classes. Andrew and I went up the block to the Japanese place I like, and had cheap sushi. But then I
ended up going back to work because I still had some things to do – I
needed to record and score some make-up speeches for July month-end
testing. So I worked twice today, with a very long break. It was OK.

I hope I can sleep well tonight – I'm suffering, a little bit, because the sensation is beginning to return to parts of my neck, which up until now has been mostly just numb, due to the nerve damage from the major surgery. I've taken some painkiller today, for the first time since discharge from the hospital.

I haven't blogged much music lately. But I'm listening to a lot of music – and, now that Andrew has received his massive harddrive-full-o-musictracks in the mail, I'm listening to a lot of new stuff from my brother. That's a good thing.

What I'm listening to right now.

Devendra Banhart, "Cripple Crow."

Lyrics.

When they come from the over the mountain
Yeah we’ll run we’ll run right around them
We’ve got no guns no we don’t have any weapons
Just our cornmeal and our children

The dust drowns
The dark clouds
But not us
But not us

While we pay for mistakes with no meaning
All your gifts and all your peace is deceiving
And still our pain dissolves with believing

That peace comes, their peace comes
That peace comes, their peace comes

Now that our bones lay buried below us
Just like stones pressed into the earth
Well we ain’t known by no one before us
And we begin with this one little birth

That grows on, that grows on
That grows on, that moves on

Cripple crow say something for our grieving
Where do we go once we start leaving
Well close that womb
Or else keep on bleeding
And change your tune
It’s got no meaning

 

Caveat: SharkCat

I'm not, normally, a person to post "cat videos" with abandon. But… I was watching this, a while ago, and laughing hard, and Andrew insisted that I blog it, because of that.

Caveat: A Pair of Dreams

I woke up twice this morning. The first time I woke up was around 5:30 AM. I was restless, as I'd been having a difficult dream.

Someone from the US Army had come to my apartment and told me I had two hours to get packed up and moved – everyone had to move out of the country. Some kind of war scenario – many of the Koreans were going around doing crazy things, too. But it was all very vague.

Two hours is not a lot of time to pack up my apartment. Especially given the fact that I kept finding new rooms full of stuff. I would get stuff thrown into boxes only to discover a new room. Piles of knickknacks on shelves, bookshelves creaking under the weight of too many books like in a used bookstore, plastic containers of who-knows-what piled on the floor, like in my storage unit in Minnestoa.

Some Army guy came around and said I couldn't bring it all. "Take what's important," he said.

I found many things that I didn't even recognize as mine, yet it all seemed important and precious. I found bins of ceramic figurines, mountains of paper with drawings on each page, collections of coins and stamps and price tags. It was a hoarder's fantasy world, and I was being perfectly hoarderish within it.

But time was running out. People would come through and offer to help, but I kept rejecting it. Then Karen came by – Karen is my (ex-) mother-in-law (Michelle's mom). She said, with a sigh, "This was all Michelle's." I sat back in shock – that explained both why I didn't recognize the stuff and why I still felt compelled to save it all.

It was too late, though. The Army guy came by and said to stop packing, we were moving out. Karen was crying, as we left the unpacked stuff behind.

I held only a few boxes in my arms. I didn't even want them. I threw them aside, as we marched, a group of random Ilsan foreigners, toward some waiting buses.

Then I woke up.

I couldn't get back to sleep, so I read my history book for about an hour.

Then I finally fell asleep. This time I dreamed that I was trying to explain to my EHS students that they were very smart and had great potential, but they were complaining they were stupid and lazy. I was trying to motivate them. It makes sense – that's the class I did a substitute gig in last night.

Somehow, the four EHS students and I were in a supermarket. I was trying to cheer them up by clowning around, but, like the incipient adolescent 6th graders that they are, they seemed to mostly find this embarrassing. I said I would stop embarrassing them if they would cheer up. So they tried their best, and we sat down on some benches in a park to try to have class.

It was too hot to study, though. We sat around swatting flies and mosquitoes, as the sky grew dark. "Teacher, my book will get wet," one of them said, as raindrops started to fall.

I woke up again. 9:30 AM. That is the latest I've woken up since coming home from the hospital, I think. I have a sore throat – that is worrying – the last thing I need is to get some kind of cold or flu, leading into the radiation next week.

I ate some vitamin C with my breakfast. Maybe I should take it easy today, and stop having so many adventures.

Caveat: A Random Adventure And Random Usefulness

Earlier today, after breakfast, I was feeling energetic and restless, and I said to Andrew, I’m going to take a walk. He came along, of course.

We walked over to the new “Onemount” mall that’s been built on the west end of Lake Park, a few blocks from my apartment. There is a waterpark inside the mall. That’s pretty common in Korea – waterparks, I mean. But there is also a “snow park” in this mall – ice skating, manufactured snow, an indoor sledding slope. That’s not so common. I think some hot day I’m going to pay the entrance fee and try it out.

Then we walked into Lake Park. That’s a common enough walking route for me. The air was stormy and thundery and deep gray overcast. It was beautiful. And there was enough of a breeze that the heat wasn’t so stifling.

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I knew there was a “toilet museum” inside Lake Park – I’d seen it before. But I’d never actually visited it, although it’s a kind of famous (or infamous) landmark in Ilsan. Today it was open as Andrew and I walked past, so we visited the Toilet Museum.

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Then we saw some men running one of those sewer-exploring robots – just something in maintenance going on unrelated to being next to the Toilet Museum. We watched them for a while – they seemed disorganized.

We walked toward the southeast end of the lake. That area looking toward the highway bridge over the lake always reminds me a little bit of Minneapolis’ Uptown area.

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Then we walked around the end of the lake and ended up going to HomePlus, where I bought some vitamins and exotic tea and a few other things.

Then spontaneously I said, “How about instead of going home for lunch we go to that Indian Restaurant that I like that’s near here?”

Andrew seemed to like this idea.

So we had Indian food for lunch: samosa, vegetable raita, malkhi dal, some mutton curry, lots of garlic naan bread. Very delicious.

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It was pouring rain so hard when we left the restaurant that we stopped in a cafe and had coffee and talked for a long time.

When the rain had let up and we finished our coffee, we hurried home and I quickly got ready and went to work.

Work felt good today: I felt useful. I did a substitute teaching in one class, because of a scheduling mistake. Then I corrected some student essays and helped fixed the scheduling mistake.

I like feeling useful.

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Caveat: Health Update

I should post a health update.

Yesterday I visited Dr Ryu at the clinic before going to work. The infection that has been so problematic in my neck appears largely to have cleared up, but due to scheduling issues and wanting to be sure of everything, I will start the radiation next week (Monday, August 12).

I must admit I have apprehensions about starting radiation – who wouldn’t. They make you contemplate a truly horrific list of possible complications and side effects: OMG radiation causes cancer! blindness! death!

You have to sign that list.

Well, I’m trying to stay positive. Sticking to the percentages. I survived the surgery swimmingly, where the percentages were much worse than the list of percentages on the radiation. So everything should be just fine, right?

But it’s hard to stay positive, sometimes.


I’m going to try to really enjoy this week of “pure healthiness,” such as it is. I’m definitely healthier than when I had that tumor – despite my various disfigurements (neck, wrist, thigh) I feel healthier and more vital than I have in maybe a year. It’s become clear to me, over the past month, how much that tumor was
grinding down my health and sense of well-being long before I was aware what it was or what it was doing.


pictureI will survive this.

At right is an image found online of an immobilization apparatus in use that is very similar to the one I was “fitted” with two weeks ago, what will be used for my therapy. The plastic webbing over the face is essentially rigid, but custom-moulded to the contours of the head. In my set, there is a second set of webbing that goes down over my upper torso and neck, and then there is an insert that goes into my mouth, a bit like an orthodontic retainer but serving to immobilize my jaw and tongue.

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Caveat: 미치지 않으면 미치지 못한다

I stayed at work for basically the regular schedule – 2:30 to 10:00. I didn’t teach any classes, but I did some useful things, discussed some things with the boss, finished editing and posting the speech test videos from last week, talked to a lot of students in the corridors. I didn’t, in fact, feel compelled to surf the internet, although I did experience some boredom.
So there I was, sitting at work, and a little bit bored, because I was waiting on something that I needed to do later on but I didn’t have much to do right at that moment.
Looking for something to do, my eye landed on one of the aphorisms Curt has posted on the wall near the door. 
미치지    않으면        미치지   못한다
michi-ji anh-eu-myeon michi-ji mot-han-da
be-passionate-PRENEG not-be-IF reach[something]-PRENEG can’t-do-PRES
This expression relies on the double-meaning of the verb 미치다, which can mean both “to be crazy” (i.e. passionate) as well as to reach some goal.
Hence, quite loosely, “If we are not passionate, we will never reach any goal.
 
 

Caveat: 명동과 남산골한옥마을

Brother Andrew and I went to Myeongdong to meet my friend Seungbae Lee. We met in front of the old cathedral – mostly because it’s an easy-to-find landmark.

We went for lunch at a Japanese place, where I had 돈까스 [don-kka-seu = Japanese fried pork cutlet]. I didn’t used to like donkkaseu but after my time in the hospital when I discovered that it was easy to eat with my broken mouth, I fell in love with it for sentimental reasons. So I had it and it was good.

Here are my brother and my friend at that restaurant.

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Then we went over to a place called 남산골한옥마을 which is a kind of tourist-oriented “Korean folk village” reconstruction thing right on the north end of Namsan Park on the southeast end of the Myeongdong neighborhood.

It was really too hot to behave very touristy, but we tried, and I took some pictures.

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Finally we gave up since it was too hot, and we spent over an hour sitting around in an air-conditioned convenience store drinking cold drinks.
Then we came back home.

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Caveat: One Month Cancer-Free

Today is the one-month "anniversary" of my massive surgery, which was on July 4th. The tumor was removed, and so far no metastasis.

That means by the logic of our gregorian calendar, this day Sunday, August 4th, is the mensiversary (a real word) of my cancer-freedom. I have always had a strange fascination for the calendrical recyclings of dates and numbers, and I suspect this monthiversary (another real word, but much more etymologically abominable) will henceforth hold a deep meaning for me.

To celebrate, I woke up, ate nurungji and a large, fat Korean plum and coffee for breakfast, and stared at the internet for half an hour.

Caveat: Los Güeyes Gangnam Stylin

I took my brother to Gangnam today. Somos los hermanos Güeyes (Ways, because of our family name, get it?), y fuimos gangnam stylin.

We ate tacos at a pretty good taco joint, called Dos Tacos, that I like to visit. I ordered fish tacos. Milestone: I ate spicy food for lunch. First time in 4 months.

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Amazingly, when I sat down, a poster from my hometown (more-or-less) was facing me.

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We went to the bookstore which caused me to spend money. Then we walked between raindrops in an afternoon rainstorm.

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We had some coffee at a very crowded cafe, and I showed Andrew the Korean Language hagwon where I studied Korean full-time back in 2010. Then he said, “I’d be open to going to a museum.”

Using my smartphone, I found the closest museum to where we were, and we went there. It was the “South Branch” (“남” = nam) of the Seoul Museum of Art. It was kind of small but the price was right (“free”) and it was not that amazing, but it had some interesting decorative art / interior design stuff. Pictures weren’t allowed inside.

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Here is a chair sculpture I saw outside, though.

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And I was looking through the columns of the lovely old pre-Japanese building (it was once the Belgian Embassy to Joseon Korea around 1900) at the sun.

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At home for dinner I had kimchi with some rice among other things. I’m almost back to my pre-horrible-symptoms (i.e. at least 4 months ago) eating capacity and range. This is pleasing.

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Caveat: Is it just me?

A joke for your consideration:

"Is it getting solipsistic in here, or is it just me?"

I had some strange dreams involving misplacing my shirt while in the hospital. I was mystified, and the doctors and nurses were mystified, since misplacing a shirt while having an IV in your arm, is not, in fact, a simple task – it's really hard to take off a shirt over the IV tube and saline-bags, etc.

Andrew wasn't any help. He had misplaced his shirt, too.

What's that all about? Who knows.

I slept a full night, however, with no insomnia. That's a good feeling.

Caveat: Around Camp Edwards, To Palm Springs

About once a year, I make a trip out to Camp Edwards. It’s not far. I figured with Andrew here, it was as good a time as any to go look at it.

I was stationed at Camp Edwards, 296th Forward Support Battalion, Bravo Company, 2nd Infantry Division, in 1991. Camp Edwards no longer exists – the US Army closed it in the late 90’s. A few years back, when I went there, the buildings were still there but abandoned, but the last few times I’ve gone, it’s just a vacant lot with a fence around it.

From a block from my house, we got on the #600 bus and that dropped us right at the “front gate” of Camp Edwards, after a wending half-hour bus ride through Gyoha and Geumchon (neither of which really existed in 1991). This is the front gate, below. The bridge structure is the railroad track, now elevated. In 1991 it was at grade level.

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We walked along the fence and I pointed out where the various features of Camp Edwards were located: the dining hall, the barracks, HQ, the warehouse, and the motor pool. Here is a picture of where the motor pool building was – I remember that spindly tall white-barked tree (birch?) that’s kind of in the right of center of the photo, as being in the motor pool’s “front yard.”

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I spontaneously decided that I was feeling healthy enough to try to walk around Camp Edwards. I haven’t ever tried this. I’m sure we circumnavigated the camp at various times on PT exercises and activities back when I was stationed there, including things like our periodic off-post runs. But certainly I’d never tried it since.

So we set off northward down a country lane.

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The country lane led to a farm.

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And it led through some woods.

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And we came to another farm.

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And we saw a Korean farmer in his field.

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Then we got a little bit lost in the woods. Although we ran out of road, we didn’t run out of abandoned chairs.

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After tromping through the brush a bit, I decided I wasn’t up to cross-country hiking, so we went back along the road, and around a small hill and came to a gravesite (which abound in rural Korea).

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We came to an area that I recognized, through 22 years of mental haze, as being the “back” of Camp Edwards. There was a small concrete wall with old machine-gun emplacements, and this gateway, where Andrew posed with his umbrella (it was raining at this point, though not hard).

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We walked along the road, back south, now, having gotten at least halfway around Camp Edwards moving counterclockwise.

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We came to giant “tank trap” of impressive engineering and dimensions.

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I saluted Andrew from inside the tank trap.

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Then we walked up the road and came to a new development called PalmSprings (팜스프링). 

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We passed a Korean mini-mall with the parking in front, American-style. This is sufficiently rare in my experience, in Korea, to be notable, so I took a picture. I believe this is all on land that was formerly part of Camp Edwards.

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Then we walked to Geumchon station and took the train back to Ilsan. In Ilsan, I wanted to wait for a package that was being delivered at KarmaPlus – even though KarmaPlus was closed due to the summer break.

So we stopped and had a very, very decadant lunch at “Burger Sharp,” a restaurant right next door the KarmaPlus building, that’s very popular with the students.

I swear, in 5 years of living in Ilsan and working in this Hugok neighborhood, I have only eaten at this place once or twice. But I figured, what the hey? I’m living somewhat free-and-loose with respect to my normal strictures, lately.

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Then, due to a communication error, we waited for more than an hour for a package that was already there waiting for me. Ah well. I need to improve my Korean so I understand when they tell me these things.

Then we came home.

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Caveat: Cooking

One thing having a visitor (namely Brother Andrew) here has done is that it's ignited my cooking bug. I love to cook, but I often get into lazy ruts of way-too-simple foods when living alone and cooking only for myself. Having someone here, I start getting creative.

Yesterday I made a really tasty tuna salad for lunch, with chopped almonds and an aging nectarine, and ginger and mayo and blackberry vinegar and some leftover curry spice. We slathered it onto Russian rye bread (bought in Russiatown on Wednesday), sliced and toasted. It was hard for me to eat (the toast too crumbly = tongue steering crisis) but very good.

Then for dinner last night I made wilted spinach – in a pan with a few tablespoons of oil, I fried up some onion and chopped almonds (yes I'm getting rid of too many almonds) and lots of garlic and some spices, then added the spinach and turned off the heat. The spinach wilts in the garlicky juices but doesn't "cook." I boiled some tricolor rotini pasta and chopped in some tomato and added a cup of store-bought alfredo sauce from a jar and ground nutmeg.

It was highly delicious – my best cooking since leaving the hospital.

Caveat: Entertaining Brother Andrew

My dear brother Andrew has been so, so good to me. He’s being an excellent nursemaid, provides almost entirely positive moral support, holds my hand when the doctors are mean to me, and makes sure my fridge is full (and then keeps emptying it too).

So keeping Andrew entertained is foremost among my own tasks. Today I feel accomplished in that realm.

Andrew likes to be outside, but not in the city. He’s a forest and country type person.

So, in the morning, I dragged him onto the subway to Yeonsinnae, and then we hiked uphill until we came to Bulgwang Temple and then the entrance to Bukhansan National Park, which sits right in the heart of the northern half of Seoul, a bit the way the Santa Monica Mountains embed themselves in the heart of L.A.

He was clearly pleased when we hiked up into the woods, among the rocks. I left him there, went back downhill, and came home. He came home several hours later.

Some pictures.

The temple.

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Andrew admiring craftsmanship.

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Me sitting on the temple stoop.

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A view of some rocks, from the trail. Andrew likes rocks.

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The view looking back toward Yeonsinnae.

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Andrew on the trail.

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Passing the temple again on the way back down. There was a monk inside, chanting, so I stopped for a while.

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The temple bell tower – but it’s missing its bell.

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Then, this afternoon, I showed him the strangest movie yet, from among my bizarre and eclectic collection. I’ve been showing him a lot of my favorites, but he seemed to rather enjoy this one, especially. I reviewed the movie, Love Exposure, here.

Here are two temple panel paintings, which I’ll post for archival purposes. The first is a bit unusual – it feels like a “placeholder” as opposed to a true painting.

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Caveat: My Canadian Bacon Implant

pictureI’m going to be honest: it’s really pretty gross.

Don’t scroll down and don’t read this post if you are easily grossed out. This is about my wrist, which was the “donor” spot for the material that was used to reconstruct my tongue after the tumor was removed.

The irony, of course, is that a major portion of that tongue reconstruction was lost due to the infection I suffered post-surgery in the hospital. The fact that I have retained a fully functional if somewhat truncated tongue is mostly attributable to my obstinacy and linguistic obsession, so-to-speak. At least one portion of the reconstruction I literally swallowed one day, hardly noticing it, after the second surgery cut it off and left it like a hanging useless bit with nothing to do. I think of my original forearm-sourced donor flesh, only about 10% remains at the root of my tongue – unless I have misunderstood the doctors.

Those same doctors insist, however, that the transplantation, though not entirely successful, was still utterly necessary – as it gave my tongue a critical period when I could “retrain” it to stay straight and forward-pointed in my mouth. Otherwise, it may have healed curled into a knot at the back of my mouth and I would have lost a major portion of my function. I’m inclined to give the whole thing the benefit of the doubt, but recovering my forearm functionality is now a major obsession of mine.

My wrist seems to be healing well, though. Last night, I slept with no bandage on it, for the first time. I woke up with a sprinkling of scab-detritus around me but the wound itself remained solidly closed and fine. I’ve had no infection problems whatsoever at the wrist spot, and it causes only minor discomfort, more due to the severed nerves than due to any actual pain.

But looking at it is difficult. I may never feel entirely comfortable with it out in public – as Andrew remarked while I was still in the hospital, it looks like a small but vicious sharkbite scar.

Frankly, I think it looks like I received an implant made of Canadian bacon in my wrist, that was then crafted through clever scarification to look like a helium balloon floating away in the air. When I look at it, I think of ham.

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Caveat: faux-Victorian wooden space station quest

The dream that I was struggling with as I woke up this morning was not very narrative in structure, more episodic but repetitive. The below is a summary of something that in the dream was more circular.

Andrew and I had ended up wandering around some large underground space (which bears relation to some of our explorations in Seoul yesterday), but I became convinced we were in a space station. Yet, for a space station, or for an underground mall, it was quite strange. Everything was wood, like the interior of a restored wooden faux-Victorian shopping mall – all high ceilings, high Belle Epoque stained glass, wooden floors, balconies and balustrades.

Although the place was very finely  wrought and beautiful, it was overlain by decay and disorder. There were hundreds, if not thousands, of squatters living in the various rooms and halls. There were sleeping bags and tents set up, like an Occupy encampment, and there was IT equipment everywhere, just scattered: racks of servers, racks of routers, wires laid out willy-nilly on the floor. Hippies sat cross-legged with laptops, and would reach out and grab a dangling ethernet cable.

Andrew and I were searching for my Great Aunt Mildred (my mother's mother's sister). Andrew never knew "Aunt Mid" – she's not on his side of the family (recall that Andrew is my half-brother, so his maternal relatives are not the same as my maternal relatives). I was quite close to my Aunt Mid before she died in the early 90s, in a strange way. We shared a passion for left-leaning politics and academic-style speculative sociology, and we had exchanged long series of letters at various times on various topics.

I wasn't sure why we were looking for her, because even inside the dream, I already knew she was dead. At some point, because of this, we shifted the focus of our search to finding our sister.  We were wandering in and out of the maze of interconnected rooms, brilliant with sunlight shining through high windows and glimpses of dark space, too.

I would ask, "Have you seen my sister?" of various random old men eating bowls of rice or hippy children chanting songs in circles.

Suddenly this woman presented herself, very solicitous and manipulative. She was short but she was quite fat, and had a round, Caucasian face with close-cropped gray hair, like a Buddhist nun. Definitely NOT my sister.

"Who are you?" Andrew asked.

"Why, I'm your sister," she said, nonchalantly. She was trying to get us to go through this doorway. The room beyond was dark. Andrew was very sceptical, and was pulling away. I was following along, not out of trust but more a kind of curiosity.

"Where are we going?" I asked.

"Trust me," she said, but there was something disingenuous in her smile.

The whole situation played out again, with slight variations. And again.

Eventually, I woke up.

Caveat: борщ

I want to prevent my brother from growing too bored while he visits. Plus, I have been craving Russian food from my favorite Russian-food restaurant for a long time – well before the diagnosis.

So we took the subway into Seoul and walked to the neighborhood I call Russiatown, near Dongdaemun. Andrew is even more of a Russophile than I am, so I thought he would enjoy this.

This is the restaurant.

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It’s changed names several times over the years, but they always have the same borshcht recipe, which is delicious.

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I also ordered a fried liver stroganoff that was quite good – I can’t believe that I, the incipient vegetarian, was craving liver, but I was. And so I ate it. The other purple stuff is svekolny – a beet and garlic slaw.

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I got extra sour cream on the side. Sour cream is hard to find in Korea. I really enjoyed that food.

Afterward, we walked up to the 청계천 [cheong-gye-cheon]. Andrew wanted a “proof of tourism” picture.

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Then we came home and relaxed. Currently he’s off riding his bike somewhere – did I mention he bought a bike? I didn’t see this as a bad idea – when he goes back to the States, I will inherit the bike – perhaps I will even ride it.

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Caveat: the stop cancer app

Yesterday afternoon I went to work again, to do more student-speech scoring for the month-end testing. I came home even more exhausted (and hungry) than Monday evening, but brother Andrew had thoughtfully started some dinner so I was quite pleased.

Andrew and I ended up watching a movie (from among my collection of movies, I've been showing him some of my favorites) – this time, we saw The Good, The Bad, The Weird (I've blogged about that movie several times before).

So in fact, I went to bed pretty late. I didn't not experience the blessed, uninterrupted sleep of the previous night. I was restless, and woke many times – more back to a hospital-style sleeping. I'm not sure what's behind that – obviously, tiredness from work isn't the sole factor in providing good sleep.

One snippet of a dream I had (actually from a short nap yesterday afternoon) was funny and worth sharing: I dreamed I was playing with my smartphone (an Android based Samsung Galaxy Tab) and all of a sudden I discovered an app that was labeled "stop cancer." In the dream, I thought, now why didn't I just use this app, instead of all that surgery and stuff? I remember feeling really annoyed, in the dream, that I hadn't found the app sooner. What use is a useful app if it's not well publicized?

Caveat: 고봉산 영천사

Today, Andrew and I set out for a temple I visited a long time ago. I believe it is the “working mountain temple” closest to my home. It’s on the side of a mountain called Gobong-san (고봉산), which is north of the railroad tracks in the part of Ilsan I think of as “old Ilsan”. It is my opinion that this is the “one mountain,” of the various mountains around, that is the best candidate for the origin of the name of the city of Ilsan, which means “one mountain.”
We visited the temple on this mountain called 영천사 [yeong-cheon-sa]. It’s a small, unpretentious working temple. I met a monk there and had an actual conversation with him – I lived in Ilsan, I had been in the cancer center, my brother was visiting. He wished me good health. Then he ran down and told one of the men hanging out near a storage shed, “OMG there’s a foreigner speaking Korean up there!” I didn’t catch the exact words in Korean, but that was the drift of it.

I felt flattered.

I bowed.

Here are some pictures.

Andrew on the trail up the mountain.

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The temple garden.

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Behind the temple outbuilding (monks’ quarters).

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Standing on the stoop of the temple looking toward Tanhyeon towers.

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The main temple building and administrative building to the right.

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A smaller shrine behind the main temple. These are always my favorite places to go to do sitting or prostrations, rather than the main temples. They are dedicated to various saints (bodhisattvas) and I have no idea which one this one was dedicated to – I don’t really see that it matters.

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The interior of that small shrine.

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Andrew took a picture of me doing a few prostrations there.

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I took a picture of Andrew sitting quietly there.

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Looking down on the larger temple from the stoop at the shrine.

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A trail leading up into the forest behind the shrine.

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A buddha in a stone niche near the shrine.

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A very large number of kimchi pots behind the administration building.

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A closed door detail on the shrine.

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I like how in random spots you can find little figurines enacting scenes.

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Some other figurines.

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Here is a picture of a woman getting a drink of water at the public fountain (every temple has one) and a laughing buddha. Slightly out of focus…

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Here is another smaller temple we passed while walking down the mountain.

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A jang-seung [장승 = traditional shamanistic totem] I saw amid some flowers on the main road at the base of the mountain at the end of the trip.

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Here are a ton of “temple-panel paintings” that I snapped. I love these things and am trying to build up a collection of images of them.

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Caveat: Drug Scarf

My drugs come prepackaged in little “breakfast/lunch/dinner” packets that come attached in a long chain of little cellophane packages. I was talking to Andrew about the fact that my ugly, deformed neck requires me to adopt some new fashion – turtlenecks or gauche scarves.

He suggested I could use my string-o-drug-packets as a scarf: drug scarf!

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Caveat: Yes, I actually went to work today

I worked about a half-day, scoring month-end student speech tests and interacting with all my long-missed students quite a bit, and several short meetings with Curt relevant to planning August and what kind of teaching load I might have.

I felt wonderful to see all my students, and as usual, I came away more positive than going in. That's what I'm in this job for. But I'm quite tired now. I'll blog more, later.

Caveat: Façades

I awoke from an evaporating dream-scene.

I had taken the light-rail to the University of Minnesota. That places the dream in a hypothetical future, as the light-rail line going through campus is still under construction as far as I know, and certainly was never a feature of getting to the U that was a part of my experience of it in the 80’s and 90’s.

I stood on the Mall facing Northrup Auditorium, and it was a hot, overcast, humid day just as we have been experiencing here in Seoul. I began to look around more carefully. The campus seemed weirdly deserted. Was it a holiday?

Then I noticed that the Walker Library looked strange. I went closer, and realized it was just a “false front” – like those buildings made for Hollywood movie sets that have only the façade and nothing behind. Looking around, all the buildings were like that.

Looking back toward Northrup, I saw that it, too, was a false front. And so I walked up the stairs and tried to peer around to see what was behind.

What I saw was a breathtakingly beautiful although modestly sized Korean Buddhist temple, the doors wide open and a golden Buddha gazing down. A single monk sat inside the temple, in meditation.

I awoke then and everything dissolved as fiction, like at the end of Garcia Marquez’s 100 Years of Solitude.

Below, a web image found of Northrup, looking toward it from near the front of Walker Library, I would estimate. Northrup is on the left.

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Also, this image of a Buddha inside a temple (from 법륜사, taken by me last September).

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Caveat: return from the riceless wilderness

This evening, I returned from my riceless wilderness, and ate rice – not Korean style, though.

Instead, I made my peculiar “Italian stir fry” where I started with some onions and lots of garlic and oregano and basil, stir fried it in some canola, added brocolli with some precooked rice that was getting long in tooth in the rice cooker, then a dollop of red sauce. It is a bit like what Americans call Spanish rice. The red sauce held the rice grains together making them easier to eat.

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Caveat: ICU Blogged

I have finally given up my perfectionism and hit the publish button on 6 blog entries dated from July 4th through July 6th, which cover my time in the ICU after my major surgery. I may return and “touch up” some of the writing on these entries, or add some deep thought or insight if one occurs to me, but from here on they are public.

Even before the surgery it had been my intention to blog that period of time, but of course having such limited access to “the world” while in the ICU, and only fragments and scraps of paper to work with afterward, has meant that it’s been a kind “retroblogging” effort where I reconstruct my feelings and experiences of the time.

I had harbored some ambitions to cover some very deep topics, because it was an epiphanic time, and very intense (Intensive Care Unit, right?). But there’s only so much I can put together, now.

Just know that it was near the top of my list of intense experiences in my life, and utterly mind-blowing. Nor were the epiphanies merely transitory – I am confident they will grow and branch as true epiphanies do, throughout the rest of my life.

ICU First Shift / Joy

ICU Second Shift / Gratitude

ICU Third Shift / Hermitage

ICU Fourth Shift / Lucidity

ICU Fifth Shift / Suffering

ICU Sixth Shift / Kindness

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Caveat: how to know when your nap is finished

Being convalescent from such major surgery, I find myself (re-)discovering and mulling over very simple truths and ideas.

For example:

Q: How can you know when your nap is finished?

A: You wake up.



pictureI have been reading a book by the Vietnamese monk, Thich Nhat Hanh, The Heart of the Buddha’s Teaching. It’s not as “mainstream” nor as syncretistic as many of his books – it’s a genuine introduction to Buddhist practice and goes into some detail on the doctrines and dogmas that embellish the history of the tradition.

He’s doing a very good job of addressing one of my primary complaints (or frustrations) with how Buddhist practice is often presented, which is that it seems “obsessed” with suffering, and my feeling that all that dwelling on suffering can’t be good. It was one of the things I least liked about my 10 days as a Buddhist practitioner at the Vipassana retreat in Northern Illinois in December of 2009.

The monk writes, “Our suffering is holy if we embrace it and look deeply into it. If we don’t, it isn’t holy at all. We just drown in the ocean of our suffering.” (p. 9). Later he elaborates: “It is true that the Buddha taught the truth of suffering, but he also taught the truth of ‘dwelling happily in things as they are’ (drishta dharma sukha viharin). To succeed in the practice, we must stop trying to prove that everything is suffering.” (p. 23).

Nhat Hanh goes on to use the metaphor of a mother with a crying baby. What does a good mother do with a crying baby? She holds and soothes and comforts it, while carefully analyzing and solving the possible causes of the crying: hunger, discomfort, frustration, insomnia, disease, etc. Likewise, our suffering is to be recognized and then held and soothed but also analyzed, like a mother with her crying baby.

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Caveat: 홍삼

pictureKoreans love their ginseng (인삼 [in-sam]). It’s a matter of both tradition and national pride (not to mention a profitable national industry, too), and they strongly believe in ginseng’s curative and health-supplementing properties – and then there’s the aphrodesiac cult that surrounds it.

Yesterday when visiting Curt, he bought me a gift of Red Ginseng Extract. The “red” in red ginseng (홍삼 [hong-sam]) refers not to a subspecies of the plant but rather to a result of a specific curing process involving steaming and sun-drying.

The extract comes in little foil envelopes, which you open and then you squeeze the juice out into your mouth. So I got a “one month” set, 30 individual-dose envelopes (see picture below) that I’m supposed to take once-a-day. I opened and took my first extract this morning.

Like most forms of alternative medicine, I harbor my scepticisms. But red ginseng as an anti-cancer agent actually has a double-blind-study paper trail (mostly the work of fanatical Korean scientists trying to justify their traditional medicine – but still) where at least some of the studies have not been rejected on methodological grounds by the established global medical community. And there’s not any evidence of harm from red ginseng. So I figured, what the hey – I’m becoming Korean, right?

Straight up red ginseng extract has a strong earthy taste. I have sometimes described it as “dirt flavored.” Being charitable, I would describe it as similar to the aftertaste of strong maple syrup, but with absolutely zero of the sweetness. It’s not horrible, anyway. I had some red ginseng flavored cooking vinegar that went well in certain savory concoctions that I used up a few months back.

Anyway, because Koreans take their Red Ginseng so seriously, it comes packaged (and priced!) like a luxury good (see picture above). I think Curt spent way too much money on this gift – let’s just say, it’s more expensive than an outpatient visit to the cancer hospital by a factor of about 500 (see yesterday’s post).

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