Caveat: west to Califerne

We left Phoenix and arrived at Jenna’s in Indio, California, around noon.
It was nice to see everyone here. This is where we will spend Christmas.
I took a picture of Arthur with a cat.
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Juli and I took a walk (as we often do when we see each other) and I saw a roadrunner in park.
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We walked up a hill and I took this picture of the Coachella Valley. It’s notable that the valley is below sea level.
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We had a big pasta dinner with everyone who is here.
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[daily log: walking, 4km; driving 400km]

Caveat: giant cookie party

My sister had a giant Christmas cookie party today.
I liked being there, and finally meeting (or meeting after such a long time) many of the friends she talks about.
Plus, there were a lot of cookies.
The Arizona lifestyle requires a backyard pool, and, perhaps, Christmas sweaters for the dogs.
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Earlier, my nephews Dylan and Jameson were put to work as slaves raking the lawn (because this is Phoenix, and the leaves are only now falling from the trees).
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Later, we went by a store where Jameson is working as a cashier. He is a very chill dude. When I lived in Korea, it was hard to explain to kids that most teenagers get part-time jobs in the US, but it’s true – this is the proof.
Personally, I think he could pretend to be a k-pop star and get away with it.
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We had pizza for dinner. Around the table counterclockwise you can see Mark (Todd’s brother), my sister in a santa hat, Dylan, Todd and, of course, the gruncle.
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Tomorrow, we drive to Indio.
[daily log: walking, 1km]

Caveat: rocks and canyons

We drove past many rocks, on our way from Tucumcari, New Mexico, to Phoenix, Arizona.
Here is a very traditional-looking hilltop village in western New Mexico.
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Here is the Salt River Canyon, coming down an alternate route (avoiding interstate highway) from Holbrook, Arizona through Show Low and Globe to Phoenix.
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[daily log: walking, 2km; driving, 900km]

Caveat: another day on the farm

Another day on the farm. Just kinda hanging out. I made my chupe de pescado – Arthur’s suggestion. Apparently he somewhat likes, within the scope of his laconicity. I think it was at least deemed edible by Dean and Pam.
The farm.
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A pretty good tree on the side of the road with Ozarks in the background.
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Tomorrow, we depart for Phoenix.
[daily log: walking, 4km]

Caveat: Anumpa Tosholi

In the morning, Arthur and I took a walk down the road.
Only a half-a-mile down the road, there is the Choctaw Nation Capitol and Museum. This is Native American country, and Dean and Pam’s farm is nestled up against the reservation land.
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The museum was pretty good. There were historical exhibits on the genocide, called the “removal” and commonly called the “trail of tears.” Then a lot about the life since settlement in Oklahoma. I most enjoyed the contemporary artworks by tribal members.
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In the museum shop, I made the mistake of looking at the books on sale. There were Choctaw language dictionaries. As many know, I have a weakness for dictionaries, especially in languages I don’t know and probably will never learn.
I bought dictionaries.
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Arthur was bemused, as he is anytime he directly encounters my odd book-owning habit.
“Anumpa Tosholi” is in the Chahta (Choctaw) language, and means “word translator” which is the expression they use for “dictionary.”
Later in the day I got to “help” Dean feed some hay to his cows. Really mostly I was standing around.
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[daily log: walking, 3km]

Caveat: Lotsa horizon

“Lotsa horizon around here.” – Arthur.
We visited people today. First, extended family of Dean and Pam’s up in Crescent, Oklahoma, on a farm. We had venison chili for lunch and later Arthur and I took a walk down the road.
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Then later, we had dinner with my uncle Miles, his wife, along with my cousin Niki and her family. Clockwise, you see Ella, Abby, Niki, Jeremy, Kaitlyn, me, Arthur, Miles, and Nancy.
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Then we drove to Clayton, where Dean and Pam have their farm.
[daily log: walking, 4km; driving, 300km]

Caveat: OK

I have arrived safely in Oklahoma City. I’m tired.
Rather than meet with Arthur and his friends Dean and Pam at their home in Clayton, Oklahoma, they contacted me as I drove down and suggested meeting in Oklahoma City, instead. This will enable an easier meet-up with other people tomorrow – a member of their family, on one hand, and a member of Arthur’s family (my uncle Miles), on the other hand.
So I drove to OKC (as Okhahoma City is universally abbreviated) and we are at a motel here. We’ll meet up with various people tomorrow.
Here are some pictures from driving down.
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[daily log: walking, 1km; driving, 1350km]

Caveat: Bach humbug

I went to my friend Bob’s concert – he conducted his Wisconsin Chamber Choir for a Christmas performance of Bach’s Christmas Oratorio. Here he is during the intermission – in the tux lower center, of course.
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It was wonderful music. My title is just a joke.
The performance was at the Luther Memorial Church (Lutheran) in Madison, on the University campus. The church itself was quite beautiful, in a faux-gothic way. I took this picture of the crescent moon hovering on the tip of the bell tower, outside – it looked like a minaret on a mosque, but the moon’s brightness made my camera image too indistinct to really see this.
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What I’m listening to right now.

JS Bach, “Christmas Oratorio,” by Concentus Musicus Wien, conducted by Nikolaus Harnoncourt.
Of course, I heard a different version, by the Wisconsin Chamber Choir – but that’s not on youtube.
[daily log: walking, 3km]

Caveat: dialogues at dawn

Bob and Sarah had to throw out a broken toilet and ancient chair, so I helped carry them to the curb last night. This morning they awaited their fate, collecting frost.
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I would entitle this photograph “Dialogues at Dawn” because of the way there are two places to sit, side by side. But it’s humorous.


Later I took a medium-length walk around the pond in the center of the town of Whitewater, since Bob and Sarah had to work, of course.
I saw these guys standing on the pond, ice-fishing.
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[daily log: walking, 3km]

Caveat: Poke men in Madison

I went to Madison with my friend Bob. He had to do a radio interview, related to publicizing his upcoming concert which he is conducting.
While he was in the radio station doing his interview, I had some time to kill walking around Madison. I have never lived in Madison, but I have spent a lot of time here over there years, because it’s where my sister went to grad school, and where several friends also went to grad school, and of course now, where my friend Bob teaches and conducts music.
I took this picture looking up State Street, which connects the state capitol building (in the distance) with the university campus (behind me).
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My friend Doug has long described Madison as “Disneyland for college students” and that seems an accurate moniker. It’s everything you want in a college town.
Madison occupies a striking isthmus between two lakes. So a few blocks north of State Street you’re on the shores of Lake Mendota.
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Later, after his interview, Bob and I met with Martin, who is the son of my friends Mark and Amy who I just finished visiting up in Eagan, Minnesota. Martin works in downtown Madison, so it was easy for him to get away from work and have lunch.
I found a place selling poke. Poke (/poʊˈkeɪ/) is a bit like a Hawaiian version of 비빔밥 (bibimbap) or 볶음밥 (bokkeumbap). You mix rice with various toppings, including raw or cooked fish, veggies, and sauces. I had one with very hot sauce and raw tuna and tofu. It was delicious.
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Here is a selfie of me, Martin and Bob at the poke joint.
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Later, I took a long walk to a nature reserve north of Bob and Sarah’s house. I went past the photogenic Whitewater water tower.
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[daily log: walking, 4km]

Caveat: a city of memories and stale snow

I spent my last day in Minneapolis running a few errands and driving around a bit, among my memories. I’ve lived in Minneapolis/Saint Paul, on and off, for almost a quarter of my life, including very formative years of young adulthood.
This is the house on Elliott Avenue where I met Michelle and Jeffrey. Bob and I were roommates, upstairs, while Michelle lived in the downstairs unit. Jeffrey was 5 years old, then. The house’s appearance is almost unchanged.
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Here is the Minneapolis skyline as seen from 14th Street at the University of Minnesota campus, at sunset.
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No visit to Minneapolis is complete without a meal at an Ethiopian restaurant. Mark, Amy and I went to a restaurant on 4th Avenue South, just south of Lake Street, a few blocks northwest of the Elliott Avenue house shown above.
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[daily log: walking, 3km]

Caveat: My almost brother

I call Eugene my “almost” brother. He was an exchange student from Kazakhstan in the early 1990s, living with my dad and stepmother in Southern California, at the time when my brother Andrew was a teenager.
Eugene has been a member of my extended family ever since, even though I haven’t seen him much (I mean, the same could apply to many of my actual relatives, too).
His wife and he live in Minnesota, here, and have two amazing children. I was happy to meet them. I drove out to their house for dinner this evening. We took a selfie at the dinner table. It’s not a great photo, but it managed to include all of us, despite its blurriness.
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Since Eugene speaks Russian, natively, and his wife Marisol grew up as a native Spanish-speaker in Los Angeles, they made the decision to raise their children trilingually. It’s quite spectacular to see a 4 year old switching seamlessly between English, Spanish and Russian. The fact that I’m fluent in two of those and able to at least vaguely understand the third (from my two years of college Russian), I had fun switching along with her.
All parents who can should give the gift of multilingualism to their children.
Unrelatedly, earlier, I took another long walk at the big park south of Mark and Amy’s house. I took some pictures. They seem a bit monotonous, I’m sure, but I never tire of the winter landscape here.
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I saw a frozen stream.
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I saw long shadows.
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This is Jensen Lake. A good Minnesota name.
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The lake has an island.
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I found an unexpected shrine beside the trail.
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I saw a hillside beetling into the lake.
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[daily log: walking, 5km]

Caveat: hash and cold batteries

Last night, using leftovers from the previous night, I made a chopped roast hash with potatoes and stuff, and we used the jar of chili sauce that Juli had sent with me to gift to Mark and Amy as garnish. It was pretty good.
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Today, I didn’t do a lot. It was one of those “days off” that is part of this cross-country misadventure.
One thing: Mark has his parents old RV in an outdoor storage (guarded parking) location. We went to check on it, and the battery was dead. We got very cold taking out the battery.
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[daily log: walking, 1km]

Caveat: Minnesota Trails

Last night, Amy made a delicious dinner (which I tried to help with, at least a little). There was a roast and potatoes.
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Today, I ran a few small errands, got frustrated with my bank, and decided to take a long walk in the giant park near Mark and Amy’s house.  I took a lot of pictures.
I went east on Cliff Road to the entrance to the Lebanon Hills Regional Park. I walked down a snow-covered path.
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I saw some small lakes.
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I had to find my way around a stretch of closed trail. These two signs were at opposite ends of the closed part.
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I saw some trees.
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I saw what, in summer, is probably a grassy hillside.
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I came to a clearing in the trees and saw some humble, 21st century habitations.
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I love Minnesota in the winter. It is probably what I miss most about living here.
[daily log: walking, 4km]

Caveat: increasing amounts of snow on the ground

I drove east yesterday, and it was interesting to see the increasing amounts of snow on the ground as I progressed northeastward from Denver to Minneapolis.
After crossing from Colorado to Nebraska:
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After crossing from Nebraska to Iowa:
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After crossing from Iowa to Minnesota:
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The Blueberry Tank in Mark and Amy’s driveway this morning.
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[daily log: walking, km]

Caveat: A map of travels

Some people wonder what this giant trip I’m taking is all about.
I’ve written about is some, before, but I decided yesterday to make a map of the plan.
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I am currently in Denver, Colorado, so about 30% of the driving is done. Total trip will be more than 5000km of driving.
The dates are not exact – they are targets. Arthur is not riding along for the whole trip – he is flying some of the sections, and skipping some parts. This is because I have more people I want to visit than he does.
[daily log: walking, 1km; driving 1450km]

Caveat: More old pictures

Wendy found some more interesting old pictures in some boxes. I scanned a few.
In 1994, Michelle (my wife, who died in 2000), Jeffrey (my stepson, who is now 31 and lives in Seattle) and I drove from Minnesota out to California, and stayed with my dad (Phil), Wendy (my stepmom), Andrew (my brother) and Eugene (an exchange student living with them at that time).
We spent Christmas in Temple City, California.
Here is Jeffrey (my stepson) at age 7.
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Here is Jeffrey with his favorite present, an infamous air hockey table.
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Here is a picture of me, Jeffrey and Michelle, looking pretty happy.
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[daily log: walking, 2km]

Caveat: Liquid Mechanics

I went to visit the craft brewery owned by my brother-in-law. It’s pretty interesting that he has this business. I tasted a few of the beers he makes there, and I bought a case of porter which I might give away as gifts or drink at some point.
Here is a picture of Wendy, me and Eric at the brewery, called Liquid Mechanics.
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Later, I had dinner with my sister Brenda and her two kids (well one – Sarah wasn’t joining for dinner) at their house. It was nice talking to my sister.
[daily log: walking, 2km]

Caveat: Ancient Images

I have spent the day visiting with my stepmother Wendy. I met her current significant other, Larry, and we had a late lunch at a restaurant they like, where Brenda (my stepsister) also came.
One thing we did was spend some time going through some old photo collections. I scanned a few of them – so now I have digital versions of some old photos of my siblings and me.
Here is a rare and implausible “family portrait” from 1990, when I had just finished the training phase of my brief Army career.
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Here is a picture of my father, looking rakish, and me, looking awkward. I was 13 years old, and we were taking a trip in Europe, in late 1978.
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Here is a picture of me when I was 11 years old, at Phil and Wendy’s McKinleyville house. I think it might have been my birthday.
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Here is a picture of my sister Brenda, age 5, pulling a go-cart that my father had made up the hill.
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Here is a slightly damaged picture from my sister Samara’s wedding, in 1996: the four siblings.
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Here is a picture of me with Lucy the Dog from a camping trip to northern Minnesota in 1993 – the dog belonged to my friend Kristen in that era.
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Here is a picture of Samara, Wendy, me, and my father’s parents Alice and John, from around 1975.
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Wendy and I took a short walk around her neighborhood and I took this panorama of Colorado’s Front Range looking west (you can “click to embiggen” this picture, you know).
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My stepmother has artistic talent. She made this kokopelli that is in her back yard.
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[daily log: walking, 2km]

Caveat: Wyoming? Why, indeed?

I drove easter (er…, farther east) than before.
I arrived at my intended destination: my stepmother’s home in Colorado. My stepsister and her family live here too. Despite the “step” I consider these very important members of my family: they came to visit me in Korea, which can be said for very few people.
Some pictures from the drive.
Dawn in Utah (where I stayed in a cheap motel).
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I saw snow the entire day.
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Wyoming is … a bit monotonous. I never saw so many broken down trucks by the side of the road, though. I guess some combination of cold and bad luck?
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My goal.
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[daily log: walking, 1km; driving 870km]

Caveat: Blueberry’s Bath

I think I’ve mentioned that I dubbed Arthur’s Chevy Tahoe SUV “the blueberry tank.” That’s the car I’m driving all over during the holidays, and tomorrow, I set out on my next leg. I’ll drive to just north of Denver, where my stepmother Wendy and stepsister Brenda lives with her family.
Today, Arthur and I had another VA appointment, and we ran some other errands and Arthur surprised me somewhat by deciding it was finally time to wash the car. So we took it to one of those fancy “hands on” carwash places and got it cleaned. It was quite dirty – the dust was caked so thickly that an ecosystem of moss was forming on the sides of the car.
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Now it’s clean.
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Tomorrow I drive.
[daily log: walking, 3km]

Caveat: Dead Guy

Today was a hard day. I was at the dentist in the morning. A horrible dentist experience, as they always are for me. Pain and discomfort and feeling of being complicit in my own torture, and then having the privilege of paying for it.
Sigh.
I had a frustrating time with trying to get my computer (HP laptop) serviced too. If I want it to be serviced, I have to send it to the manufacturer. Which means being without a computer during that time – plus, it’s a bit complicated since I’m currently traveling around. I’ll probably just not bother. And that means the manufacturer has “won” – they’ve made the issue of warranty service sufficiently difficult and complicated such that I simply don’t bother, which of course is their money-saving objective.
Sigh.
On a good side, I got my tax returns for 2012-2017. That’s a feeling of accomplishment.
I have a lot of pain in my mouth. They had to puncture and drain an abscess above my molar. Ow.
When I got back, I told Juli I felt dead.
She gave me some “Dead Guy Ale” to go with my dinner, which seemed super appropriate.
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Life goes on. Tomorrow will be better.
[daily log: walking, 2km]

Caveat: here and there

I had a busy day today.
In the morning, I had to go to the dentist. Rather than find a dentist in Southeast Alaska, I did what Arthur does, and found a dentist down here around Portland. Since he comes here every year, it makes sense. Dentists in Southeast Alaska are hard to get to from Craig – you have to fly to Ketchikan or Juneau.
This dentist thing is stressing me out. I like dentists even less than cancer. That’s the cold truth: I’d rather be in the cancer hospital again than sitting in a dentist’s chair. It stresses me out. Well, anyway – apparently there’s something that needs doing, in there. Hopefully it won’t get messed up as it has, times before.
In the afternoon I took Arthur in to the VA Hospital in Portland. This is just scheduled follow-up from his accident and treatment over the summer. Nothing particularly stressful or gruesome, more on the side of bureaucratic, if you ask Arthur.
Tomorrow, I return to the dentist for a second chapter, and also will meet my tax accountants, hopefully bringing final closure to my long, six-year period of non-tax-filing status.
[daily log: walking, 2km]

Caveat: Thanksgiving (observed)

We observed Thanksgiving on Saturday, because for various reasons not everyone was able to make it on Thursday.
In the morning, Wayne and I took a long walk up through the tree farm – I went quite a ways farther up than I’d gone before. We took Walter, the dog, who posed for a picture, too.
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Thanksgiving was a great feast in the tradition I’ve associated with the Brosing-Lecomte extended family since my own childhood in the early 1970s, when both families were based in rural San Mateo County south of San Francisco (which was truly rural at that time, and not the collection of high-tech-entrepreneurs’ mansions that it is these days).
Arthur did his small duty relative to the event, by roasting the turkey in the style he developed in Arcata in the 1970s too, using his self-designed rotisserie barbecuer.
There is no table at these gatherings – never has been one, because the number of people is too great. People stand or sit wherever, and eat.
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Juli and Keith’s neighbor, who has horses, generously offered to let some the kids (and adults too) ride one of her horses. It was a first horse ride for some of the kids.
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It was a good thanksgiving.
[daily log: walking, 5km]

Caveat: Low Key

Today was the official Thanksgiving holiday, but we didn’t really have a major celebration. Many of the people coming to this year’s annual Brosing-Lecomte get-together and thanksgiving feast were unable to make it here today due to travel or scheduling issues. So the great feast has been scheduled for Saturday instead of Thursday. That’s when we’ll roast the turkey (Arthur’s specialty) and do the other celebratory foods.
For today, we mostly relaxed. Juli and I took a long walk, in pouring rain, up to the tree farm and then down along the river, after seeing the Lee Falls up the Tualatin River a ways.
The house shortly after dawn, on a rainy, drizzly morning.
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The horses at the neighbor’s house were deeply unimpressed by our decision to go walking in the rain. They stuck to the barn.
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Walter the charismatic dog was unconcerned about the rain.
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We saw the waterfall. In fact, despite the pouring rain, the water level in the river is quite low for this time of year. The summer and fall have been dry, here.
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We saw a giant log blocking the Lee Falls Road. Good thing we were walking. This is Juli standing by the log.
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We had barbecued chicken for dinner.
Tomorrow some people might go into town to do some shopping. I have no interest in the so-called Black Friday.
[daily log: walking, 6km]

Caveat: drivedrivedrive

I drove a lot.
I saw things.
Canada has a desert. It was cold, though – below freezing.
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Proof that Vancouver is beyond hope.
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I have arrived in Forest Grove, Oregon. I’ll add some pictures or more thoughts tomorrow – I’m tired and will sleep, for now.
[daily log: walking, not much; driving, too much]

Caveat: Driving south and more of the same

My ferry arrived at Prince Rupert at around 2 am. I was the first vehicle off the ferry, so there was no waiting at Canadian immigration/customs. I rolled down my window, and a dour, mustached Canadian asked me if I had any firearms or drugs or alcohol. No on all counts, and
he asked how long I would be staying. I said long enough to be driving through. And that was the end of the interview – the easiest Canadian border crossing I’ve ever experienced. I think crossing as an “Alaskan” helps a lot – the Canadians are used to the fact that Alaskans need to go back and forth across their country for various reasons.
I got some coffee at a Tim Hortons, I got some local currency cash at an ATM, and I drove to the first rest area east of Prince Rupert, where I slept in my car until dawn. Starting at dawn, I drove east.
First there was rain. Finally the rain cleared, and I was in the snowy British Columbian interior.
Some pictures.
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I am now at a motel at Cache Creek, BC (the junction of route 97 and the Trans-Canada highway, AKA Route 1).
[daily log: walking, 0.5km; driving, 1200 km]

Caveat: from aboard the M/V Malaspina

Here I am, sailing from Ketchikan to Prince Rupert.
I’m on a phone signal… between mountains drifting down among islands.
Pictures from earlier in the day (mostly from the Hollis-to-Ketchikan ferry).
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Here is a somewhat random quote that struck me as relevant to my new lifestyle among many retirees on Prince of Wales Island:

One way to find out if you’re old is to fall down in front of a lot of people. If they laugh, you’re still young. If they panic and start running toward you, you’re old.

[daily log: walking, 2km]

Caveat: Water Off

When Arthur goes down to the lower 48 for the holidays each year, he has a routine to “winterize” the house. One issue: since power is unreliable (and therefore heat), he has to anticipate the possibility that temperatures will be below freezing inside the house. That means the water system in the house has to be drained, and the water turned off. He puts antifreeze down all the drains.
It’s a pretty complicated process, starting with turning off the water supply up at the water tank, and draining the house, and then opening all the spigots, emptying the toilet tanks and bowls…
I remember doing this once by myself when I stayed here in 2009 and left in November. It was a bit simpler, then, because it was before he built the main part of the house, so it was only the two “sheds” – but these had fully functional toilets and plumbing, so the concept was the same.
We got this done today. And now it’s like camping, because we have no running water. Tomorrow we leave for Ketchikan.
Last night, we had dinner with Arthur’s friends / neighbors, Jeri and Karl. They live down the road, and came up here and Arthur prepared his famous chiles rellenos.
Here is a pretty good picture of the three of them, in the kitchen here.
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[daily log: walking, 3km]

Caveat: preparing to drive

I may not have mentioned this yet. I am preparing to drive down to Portland for Thanksgiving. Yes: drive.
Arthur and I will take the ferry with the car to Ketchikan. There, he will get on an airplane, and meet Juli and Keith in Portland.
Meanwhile, I’ll put the car on another ferry from Ketchikan to Prince Rupert, BC. Then from there I can drive down to Portland for Thanksgiving.
Why are we doing this? Because that way, we’ll have the car down there. We evaluated the comparative cost of renting a car over the holidays down there, versus driving Arthur’s car down, and even accounting for the ferry tolls, the low gas mileage on his SUV, and the extra 1500 miles of driving, it’s still much cheaper.
And I used to do a lot of road trips. I think I’ll handle it fine. Once down in the lower 48 with Arthur’s car, we’ll be able to make use of it for our various intended visitings.
One thing I wanted to do to get ready to drive is make sure the car has snow chains and that I know how to attach them. That’s not because I expect to have to use them, but driving in the winter, some western states and Canada will sometimes require snow chains on vehicles for snowy weather, especially over mountain passes.
So I spent the morning practicing putting snow chains on Arthur’s car. It’s kind of unpleasant, in the rain on the gravel. But I got it done.
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[daily log: walking, 4km]

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