Caveat: The African’s Snowball

Two sixth-grade boys ran past me in the courtyard. “Teacher! Teacher! African! Snowball!” they panted out, excitedly. But they didn’t slow down. They quickly disappeared into the back wing, toward the stairwell leading to the sixth-grade classrooms.

This was hard for me to understand. I was puzzled.

Until, a few moments later, Hwa-myeong raced into view from the alleyway between the storage building and the entrance to the boy’s bathroom. Ah. Hwa-myeong – our school’s only “ethnically diverse” Korean.  He’s Afro-Korean, or something Middle-Eastern, in his background. He’s a nice kid – a little bit hyper, but well-adjusted and quite popular. But his nickname, of course, seems to be “African” (the English word, “a-peu-ri-kan” in the Koreanized rendering). He had a large snowball. He was on the hunt. I got him to pause long enough so I could take his picture, as he posed, proudly displaying his weaponized snow.

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Here are some other pictures of our first snow.

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The weather was Minnesota-y, today. Meaning not the cold, per se, but the strangeness. It was quite changeable. Morning it was bitterly cold and snowing. By noon, the snow had melted and it was blustery. At 3 pm, the sky was like the bottom of a copper kettle, and there was thunder and lightning. There was a brief downpour of cold, cold rain. When I was walking home from the bus terminal at 6 pm, the sky was cloudless and violet-pink-blue-gold, from the dregs of the disappearing sun, and there was a sliver of crescent moon hanging peacefully.

My favorite first-grader, Ha-neul, presented me with a portrait she’d created of me, today. I was very pleased.

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Caveat: Gift Kimchi

My coteacher Ms Ryu gave me some homemade kimchi (by her mom, not by her, I think).  I took it home – I got a ride home with Mr Lee, the "vice-vice" principal.  The sun set.  I made some kimchibokkeumbap (kimchi fried rice).  I'm tired – the day was eventless, because all my classes were cancelled, because of a giant test that was taking place.  Such is life working in a Korean school.  I tried to plan out some lessons for the future.  I studied Korean for about 2 hours.  Really.  It might snow tomorrow. 

Caveat: And on. And on.

I had a really terrible weekend.  Not anything specific, except a really extreme level of discouragement and consequential apathy.  I didn't study Korean, as I normally do.  I didn't write much, as I normally do.  I didn't go hiking or exploring – I had the excuse that I still don't feel very healthy, but that's really just a way to justify being antisocial.  And I was definitely that.

I've written before about feeling that I'm not making progress on the things important to me.  And I suppose I should try to better outline what those "important things" are. 

1) I came to Korea because I want to learn Korean.  It's not going well.  I've been here three years.  I can barely make myself understood in single sentences.  I understand less than 20% of what I hear.

2) I'm working as a teacher.  I like working as a teacher.  But I want to be an excellent teacher.  I don't think I am.  I'm barely adequate, mostly.   I don't know what steps to take to improve:  do I need to be more organized?  More spontaneous?   Funnier?  Less funny?  How do I connect with my students?

3) I wish I were a true artist.  I write all these little fragments, outlines, "first pages of novels."  I occasionally do a single drawing, or pen some half-hearted poem.  I have a musical instrument I tell myself I should learn how to play.  I don't work on it.  I'm intimidated by my inability.

4) I need to meditate more.  Better.  More…

These important things are all incremental projects.  They don't require miracles of talent or self-discovery.  Yet I'm not making progress.  I'm on a treadmill.

Caveat: Ritualized Humiliation

Yesterday at the close of work, I was feeling rather depressed. 

One thing that happened, was that after I finished my afterschool classes, which end at 4 PM on Wednesdays, I went over to the gym to try to put in a social appearance at the staff intramural volleyball event (which includes a lot of traditional things to eat, too, and soju and makkolli and beer and things like that).  I'm just rying to fit in, I guess.  Anyway, the volleyball game seemed to be in suspension, due to the fact that one of the teachers is recently engaged to be married.  She'd brought her fiance to introduce him to the school staff.  And after forcing him to drink some alcohol (common enough in Korean social events), they tied him up, put him on a table, took off his shoes, and began hitting him on the feet.  Hard.  I'd heard of this before – vaguely – it's some kind of pre-wedding ritual that is common.   Maybe like the way a bachelor party is a ritual that is common before Western weddings.  But, this being Korea, it's got a very strong component of humiliation, and seems to be a lot about establishing social chains of dominance… that kind of thing.  I felt more alien than I normally do.  I felt like I could never truly understand Korea.  I was very puzzled, and dismayed by what seemed the cruelty of it.  I felt I couldn't relate to these people who I worked with every day.

And then I got mocked in my efforts to speak Korean – by a group of students (not students who I have in any class – I'm not even certain they attend my school).  I just felt self-conscious and hopeless, in that moment.

I wrote yesterday that I'm not making progress on the things that are important to me.  Someone asked, what are these things that are important to me?  Maybe it would be a good thing to try to map these out.

Caveat: 16) 내가 저지른 모든 죄를 망각한 채 살아 온 어리석음을 참회하며 절합니다.

“I bow in repentance of any foolishness lived, forgetting any sins committed.”

This is #16 out of a series of 108 daily Buddhist affirmations that I am attempting to translate with my hands tied behind my back (well not really that, but I’m deliberately not seeking out translations on the internet, using only dictionary and grammar).


14. 이 세상이 곳에 머물 수있게 해 준 모든 인연들의 귀중함을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.
       “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting the preciousness of all my ties to the things that allow me to stay here in this world.”
15. 내 이웃과 주위에있는 모든 인연들의 감사함을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.
       “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting my gratitude for all my ties to my neighborhood and surroundings.”
16. 내가 저지른 모든 죄를 망각한 채 살아 온 어리석음을 참회하며 절합니다.

I would read this sixteenth affirmation as: “I bow in repentance of any foolishness lived, forgetting any sins committed.”

I’ve certainly lived a lot of foolishness.

At the moment, I’m feeling discouraged. Sometimes, I feel discouraged. My teaching feels stale and uninteresting. My interactions with others feels fraught with my own negativity. I don’t feel like I’m making progress in the things important to me.

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Caveat: Looking for ghosts, finding spicy chicken stew

Last night I went out to dinner with my friend Mr Kim, the engineer from the power plant who I like to go hiking with, although lately I haven't done much hiking, mostly due to the neverending flu thing I have.  We also invited Haewon, my bilingual coteacher from work, who Mr Kim calls Ms An – she teaches an evening class at the power plant, and it was through her that I originally met him.

Because he doesn't get off work until after 6, I went home first and waited.  He called at around 715 and picked me up at my apartment.  It was extremely foggy.  Driving was strange – the regular Korean highway chaos, but in slow motion.  We went to this "middle of nowhere" restaurant (near the turn-off to Bulgapsa along highway 23, a few km south of town) and had a very spicy chicken stew. 

It was a night that would make a good setting for a ghost story.  When trying to find the turn-off to the restaurant, we ended up at some dead-end on someone's farm, with barking dogs and decrepit, broken, ceramic toilet fixtures and a mossy tile roof.  There were trees hovering off the ground through the dismbodying headlamps of the car.  The restaurant had this weird electric rainbow neon flashing outline going, and in the fog it looked like we'd stepped into a zombie video game setting. 

Talking with Mr Kim is different when someone like Haewon is around to provide translation.  It's more communicative, but less direct.  Of course.  It's good to have a reminder – for both of us, I'm sure – that we are not blithering idiots, which is what our respective language skills might lead each of us to believe about the other.

Caveat: The Glass Brain

I have adopted the term "glass brain" for the increasingly common phenomenon of living one's life quite publicly on the internet.  Perhaps this is parallel to the idea of living in a glass house, but without the house – just a brain that anyone can look into. See also, "el licenciado vidriera" – one of my favorite of Cervantes' short stories, which deals with a man who came to believe he was made of glass.

Actually, one can manage one's transparency fairly effectively, for the most part.  If one is careful, which I try to be.  Thus, a great deal of "me" is "out there" in the online world, but it's a pretty-carefully-managed "me" (seasoned with equal doses of sly circumspection and passive-aggressive snarkiness).  I can hide a great deal behind a façade of abstruse vocabulary and sheer volume of apparently random, pseudo-academic, semi-autobiographical blather.

Nevertheless, I've taken what feels like a big step further in the direction of this "managed transparency," recently:  I've submitted this blog to a list called the Korean Blog List.  Apparently the link "went live" sometime in the last 24 hours, because already I've noticed several incoming links.

…And so, behold, after blogging for 5 years (and intensively – daily – for 3 years), I've suddenly made a move which may render this blog much less of a "just for friends and family" than it has been, to date.  We'll see.

Regardless… To my friends and family:  I still view you as my primary audience.  If others are "listening in" that's great.  Perhaps they'll derive some entertainment or insight.  To those listening in:  this is not an effort at journalism.  It's only journaling.  I reserve the right to make stuff up and leave stuff out.  I exist at the center of my own subjectivity, fully aware of that limitation.

Caveat lector:  read at your own risk.   Remember the line at the top:  "재미없으면 보상해드립니다!" ("If it's not fun, we give a refund!") – this is clearly meant ironically, since there's no charge to read this.  Guaranteed refunds on free blogs consist solely in the readers' ability to deftly navigate away from said blogs.  If it's not fun, stop looking.

Caveat: Apocalypsis

When I emerged from my apartment yesterday morning, the sky was heavy and dark with clouds, what is described as black, but in reality they seemed a grayish-bronze color, but fractally textured, with highlights of silver and pink, and even flashes of blue and gold. The clouds seemed to possess infinite mass. It was the sort of sky that in Minnesota or Kansas seems to promise tornado warning sirens and airborne mobile homes. But Korea doesn't seem to get many tornadoes. Looking at the sky was like looking at a passage from the Book of Revelation, and, with the war hovering off the northern horizon in the back of my brain, I found myself imagining I could smell a hint of gunpowder in the air.

Caveat: Closet Koreanophile

I think one reason I don't always enjoy hanging out with "fellow foreigners," in my current life, is because of the unshakable feeling that I'm "in the closet."  In the closet about what?  In the closet about really liking Korea.  Most of the time, in my experience, groups of foreigners hanging out in Korea devolve into complainfests, during which nothing more is uttered than unending condemnations of some abstract Korean "way of doing things" and gross negative cultural stereotyping.

For me, it's all-too-easy to fall in with this style of talking and thinking, too.  Of course there are things that are frustrating or annoying about my life here.  But my perspective is that American ways of doing things, or Mexican ways of doing things (to name the two cultures which are most familiar to me, outside of the Korean one), are just as annoying or frustrating, and in some instances more so, in their own divergent ways. 

My problem is that as a sort of social chameleon, I just go along with it.  All the complaining is compelling.  But then I regret having done so later.  Negativity is kind of like alcoholism or something – you know it's bad, but social pressure drives you to drink, anyway, and then you regret it later.

When I try to buck this complaining-about-Korea trend – when I try to say something that focuses on the positive or points out the shortcomings of other cultures vis-a-vis the standards they're failing to enunciate – I end up feeling like a gay person in crowd of polite homophobes, or an agnostic at a Florida church meeting:  there's no open vitriol, but there's a sort of "uh oh, what's wrong with this guy?" with lots shaking of heads and snarky asides, as the other foreigners I'm hanging out with come to the realization they're in the company of a closet Koreanophile.

Hanging out with Koreans has drawbacks too – not least is that I tend to miss the ability to have deep, intellectual converstations, due to the generally lacking language proficiency.  But the negativity trap (and I'm openly admitting that I fall far too easily into this trap myself – it's not like I'm trying to blame others for my problem) is a dangerous one, for me.  I need to stay out of it.

Caveat: Fever

Sick and tired of being sick and tired. 

You know… not necessarily anyone's interest, to hear the utter banality of how I feel.  But, so… just a general update of where I'm at.  Ever since the food poisoning, I haven't felt healthy, and this weekend it's transformed into a full-blown, very unpleasant but highly conventional flu.  At least it's not food poisoning, right?

I've done a lot of reading, anyway.

Caveat: 두려움과 배움은 함께 춤출 수 없다

Fear and learning cannot dance together.

Today at work, I got a ride home with my coworker Mr Lee. He’s like the vice-vice principal. I think he’s a nice guy, and I can tell he’s really smart, but I mostly appreciate him to the extent he runs interference with the nefarious vice principal. He has a difficult job.

I used to interact more with him, when I was carpooling with Mr Choi last spring. But Mr Choi transferred to another school, and Mr Lee was too recalcitrant, for whatever reason, to offer carpooling – mostly, I suspect, because he has very little English, and feels badly about that.

pictureAnyway, I sat in the back seat of his Kia (there was another teacher in the passenger seat, the new social studies teacher who replaced Mr Choi, whose name I haven’t figured out). And there, on the seat, was a book. Being the typical curious person that I am, I began deciphering the title, and with the social studies teacher’s help. And I discovered it was something I’d heard of:  the Albany Free School (q.v. at wikipedia). The English title of Mercogliano’s book is Making It Up As We Go Along, but the Korean title is 두려움과 배움은 함께 춤출 수 없다 [fear and learning cannot dance together], which, frankly, I like a lot better (Korean edition cover at left). It’s interesting to me, sometimes, to realize there are a lot of “new ideas” circulating in education circles, in Korea – even in a backwater like Yeonggwang County, where the evidence of progressive pedagogy on the ground is almost zero. Given my own background in “alternative education” (both my grandparents’ “Pacific Ackworth” experiment (1940’s-60’s), and my own time at Arcata’s “Centering School” and my teaching at “Moorestown Friends” in 97~98… all these things have exposed me to a lot of alternative pedagogical thought and left me convinced that convention, in education, is way overrated.

And there, on the back seat of a vice-vice principal’s car in Yeonggwang County, Korea, there was another little piece.

[this is a back-post, added 2010-11-20]

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Caveat: “I love me”

Who said “I love me”?

I had my last “genius class” of the term, this evening. “Genius class” is a Konglishism for something that would be described in the US as a gifted program, maybe. The classes aren’t held at my school, Hongnong, but rather at the county office of education in scenic and happenin’ downtown Yeonggwang. Working for this office is the closest I have ever come, in my life, to existing inside a Kafka novel. It’s almost pure non-communication.

For example, I found out that I had to give a final test, tonight, because someone at the office sent a text message last week – not to me, but to someone who used to work at that office but that happened work at Hongnong Elementary. That’s the only communication ever received by me about the fact that I had to give a final exam. That’s just one example.

Anyway, I made a final exam, and gave it this evening. Despite the unadulterated bureaucratic horrors of working for the office, and the fact that the kids don’t really seem all that gifted to me, I found myself thinking that I’ll miss the kids. I always end up getting nostalgic, for the kids.

One of the kids is a girl named Ye-jin. She wrote a really terrible test. Her English seems almost non-existent. But she drew a picture on the back. Here it is.

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The picture made a big impression on me. The thing that was striking to me about it was that it portrays me as seeming so overconfident, almost arrogant. I know I come off that way, to others. It conceals deep insecurities, of course. My student attributed to me thoughts such as “I love me!” (twice) and “Peoples are love me!”

Actually, I think it’s not just OK, but probably important to convey a very strong sense of self confidence when teaching kids – and as this picture reveals, apparently, I do exactly that. But it’s all a front, of course. I’m a deeply insecure person.

Nevertheless:  “I like monkey.”

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Caveat: SurveyMonkey

I've been playing around with a tool called SurveyMonkey.  I want to make a survey that English teachers working in Korea can take, as a sort of way to rate and collect data about how English teachers feel about the schools they're working in.  I'm just playing around with it, at this point.   Partly, my interest in this is lies in the fact that I fully intend to renew somewhere in Korea, but can't decide where – I just know that, as things stand currently, I'm not likely to want to renew at Hongnong, specifically.

But I've actually been thinking about this for a long time.  There is such a dearth of good, structured information about how English teachers feel about their teaching / working environments.  I hate websites like DavesESL, because the tone there tends to be profoundly unprofessional, and frankly, I don't trust the things people write about schools or hagwon on sites like that, because of that.

So I've created a "first draft" of a survey that asks questions about teaching / working experience.  It's not meant to be exhaustive – it's just focused on my specific areas of interest, and my specific anxieties, at the moment.  Maybe over time, I'll expand it into something "real."  We'll see.  Here's the survey:  https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/SWB7NWW

Caveat: Really, It Was the Crowds

Any Westerner who has spent time in Korea knows about the “subway ajumma” – the experience of being shoved or trampled by what one would initially expect to be benign tribes of elderly women. In general terms, Koreans have very few of the qualms or social constraints on pushing, shoving, cutting in line, etc., that are so important in typical Western culture. For the most part, in the subway, I’ve gotten used to this and it doesn’t bother me in the least.

Yesterday, however, I had decided to go up to Seoul and go hiking with my friend Mr Kim at Bukhansan National Park. There was something a little bit crazy in driving up to Seoul on Saturday night for what seemed the sole purpose of hiking and Sunday, and then heading back south again Sunday night. That appealed to me. Really, I think Mr Kim had some kind of important errand to run, and he decided this would give an excuse for the trip.

He has a small apartment in an excellent location in Seoul. I think it’s a sort of “investment apartment” – he uses is a few days every other month, or so, as a kind of dedicated hotel room up in the capital. I understand the investment angle – I’m sure, based on its location, that it’s worth a mint. It’s a few blocks from city hall, within the boundary of the now non-existent ancient city walls, near the “media district” (where the newspaper headquarters buildings are strung out between city hall and Seoul Station) and several universities that climb the hills west of downtown toward Dong-nim-mun.

We got there sometime after midnight, Saturday night. We woke up pretty early, but he went to run his errand (to the building manager’s office, he said), and we ate ramen for breakfast. We started hiking from the east side of the Bukhansan (in northeast Seoul) at around 9:30.

The crowds were stunning. It was like hiking in the midst of a migration of goats. I really wasn’t feeling that healthy, it turned out, either. Cold-like symptoms, and still not as energetic as I was feeling before my food poisoning, two weeks ago. After several hours, we ended up skipping the peak. Mr Kim was gamely pushing and shoving his way toward the top, but one elbow too many on a precarious-seeming ledge caused me to finally put my foot down and say, simply, “I can’t do this.” I think he understood why I was unhappy. We got away from the worst of the crowds on an alternate path down.

For future reference – be careful when opting to go hiking in a major national park located within walking distance of the Seoul subway system on a stunningly beautiful (if somewhat chilly), sunny November Sunday.

Here are some pictures.

Leaving my apartment, around sunset on Saturday night. The view southwest from in front of my gas station (which is in front of my building).

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Several views from the top of the building where Mr Kim’s apartment is.

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Some things that I saw on the mountain, despite the crowds.

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Looking toward my old home, Ilsan.

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The crowds.  Let’s all go climb a mountain!  Is this fun?

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An iconic image that I think well captures contemporary Korea’s spot between past and future.

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Caveat: 재미없는 등산한데 아주 피곤해졌어요

I’ve had better hiking trips.  Definitely:  a) I wasn’t as healthy as I was hoping – still a bit run over by the food virus thing I had; b) Bukhansan was very very very very very crowded – it was like hiking among rocks and sheer cliffs, but in the Seoul Subway during rush hour.
There were some positive aspects.  I still get along with Mr Kim – he tolerated me when I lost my cool over the crowds in the park.  I think his English is improving.  Do I get to take some credit for that?
I’ll give more detailed review and pictures later.  I’m too tired now.

Caveat: Seoul? OK.

I'm sitting, reading, and listening to Genki Sudo.

My friend Mr Kim called me.  He said, "I'm driving Seoul.  You come Yeonggwang Sunday night.  I think?  We stay my house in Seoul.  We hike tomorrow.  We meet Gwangju, 7 8 hour.  Are you OK?"

He was inviting me.  He has a house in Seoul?  Interesting.  I'm off to catch a bus into Gwangju.  Good to be open to spontaneous adventure, at least sometimes.  See you later.

[And by the way, I'm not in any way mocking his English – I'm sure my Korean sounds just as terrible.  He and I do an amazing job communicating with one another, given how bad our skill is in each other's languages.]

Caveat: I Dreamt I Was a Cow

Really.  Not even a real cow.  I woke up, this morning, from a dream in which I was pretending to be a cow on stage, in a silly cow costume. 

Perhaps this is how my subconscious deals with the anxieties around performance and managing children, in the context of yesterdays huge open-house and bigwig inspection, at work?  I'm not averse to being silly – I've donned many a mask or goofy hat or wig during teaching time.  But dreaming about it, in an otherwise amorphous setting, is a bit unexpected.

I may meet my friend Mr Kim later today, but at the moment, I'm feeling unmotivated.  I will just relax this morning, I guess.

Yesterday went OK.  I met one of the important people from the power plant, which provides so much of the supplementary funding that makes this otherwise poor rural school amazingly wealthy.   He had bad teeth and bad English.  I shook his hand and said "만나서 반갑습니다."

There was a funny moment when I was meeting some of the kids' moms.  Ms Ryu introduced several of them to me, as they sat around a table eating green-tea cookies and chatting about who-knows-what.  She said, "This is Ha-jin's mom, and this is Gyu-tae's mom."

"Oh, Gyu-tae," I cried out.  "Oh, my, god," I added, reflexively – because Gyu-tae is a behaviorial challenge of the first order.  The woman seemed to understand that reaction, though, because everyone just started laughing, including Ms Ryu.  Gyu-tae is a great kid:  smart and big-hearted.  But he's never, ever, under any condition… still or focused.  When I have him in my afterschool class, I probably say things like, "Gyu-tae, sit down, please," or "규태야, 그렇지 마세요" [Gyu-tae, don't do that] once every several minutes.

Caveat: The Meanwhile Knob

Overheard on NPR, this morning (well, yesterday afternoon, in NPRland):  Lynda Barry (cartoonist, author and one-time romantic interest of Matt Groening) is talking about someone else's innovation on the time-machine concept, with the introduction of a "meanwhile knob."  Not much detail is provided as to how the "meanwhile knob" works, but I'm deeply intrigued.  I've long thought that a good time-machine should include more than just a simple "front-back" control.  I've long enjoyed the Heinleinian conception of a multidimensional "alternate-universes" control, where you can go back or forward not just to "your" past or future, but, by missing the correct calibration, end up in infinitely variant alternatives as well. 

But the idea of a "meanwhile knob" is even more interesting.  I think for Barry, based on the context of her comments, it's intended to capture the fact that "inside time" – how we perceive time and carry it around with us – things are in fact rather non-linear.  You can have multiple narratives going:  the immediate outside-your-body surroundings, the recent memorable event being reviewed, the historical novel in front of you, the upcoming meeting which you're planning out in your head.   So a time machine with a meanwhile knob suddenly becomes as much a device for altering consciousness as one that somehow alters physical reality.  Which, of course, given the physics of time travel, may, in fact, be the more plausible way to take on time travel.

Meanwhile, I'm going to get another cup of coffee.  I have an intense day coming up, at work.  More bigwigs will be visiting our English classroom – there's going to be an "opening ceremony" along with a demonstration class that I and my coteachers will have to do.  Someone (read:  the nuclear power plant people) has put a huge amount of money into this poorly-designed, high-tech language classroom, and now they want to see how it worked out – it's up to us to make it look good. 

Caveat: 10) 일가 친척들의 공덕을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.

“I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting any of the pious acts of my kin.”

This is #10 out of a series of 108 daily Buddhist affirmations that I am attempting to translate with my hands tied behind my back (well not really that, but I’m deliberately not seeking out translations on the internet, using only dictionary and grammar).


8. 조상님의 은혜를 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.
     “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting the favors of our ancestors.”
9. 부모님께 감사하는 마음을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.
     “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting my heart full of thanks to my ancestors.”
10. 일가 친척들의 공덕을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.

I would read this tenth affirmation as: “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting any of the pious acts of my kin.”

Weird, thunderstorm this afternoon. Barely above freezing, howling wind. And thunderstorm.

The students gave me pepero sticks. Today was 1111 = “pepero day.” A sort of crass, Korean, commercial, Valentine’s-type day. But the kids all got crunk on sugar. So it was cute, in a hyperactive way.

I had a third grader say something rather surprising, if not exactly “happy”: I asked him, “How are you?” and he answered, “I’m depressed.” This is not typical Korean third-grader vocabulary, though I know his English is pretty good. So I said, “Why?” and he said, shocking me, “I’m ugly.” I wasn’t sure what to say. Finally, I said, “I don’t really think so.” He’s kind of a dead-pan kid. I couldn’t tell if he was joking or not. I felt kind of sad about it – even if it was just a strange joke.

[UPDATE: So it occurs to me, on rereading this much later, that I have misunderstood this aphorism – this one, and all those that have the same structure “…misdeeds lived, forgetting…”. The “forgetting my X” is in fact an example of the “misdeeds lived” – which is to say, you’re repenting for failing to experience the feeling in question.]

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Caveat: Speculative Affirmation

I came across an intriguing challenge: can you summarize your life philosophy in two words?  I came up with “speculative affirmation,” which is borrowed from French philosopher Gilles Deleuze’s slightly impenetrable statement: “ethical joy is the correlate of speculative affirmation.” I’ve cited this quote in this here blog three times before. That’s much more than I’ve returned to any other quote, I think. I guess it’s the closest you could get to my favorite quote.

And in other news about gnomic utterances:  I’ve made a resolution to post only one-word “statuses” in facebookland. I’m curious about how much I might be able to communicate, posting only one word at a time. Think of it as an effort at lazy, minimalist poetry, or if you prefer, as just a typical manifestation of my obtuse nonsequiturism.

I had a grumpy day at work. I wasn’t coping well with the lack of communication thing, although I should know better than to hope for it. The classes themselves went fine, for the most part, but the in-between times, with my fellow teachers, less so. I kept wanting to say, “why is this happening?” But I knew I’d get nothing logical or meaningful in response. Would it be different if I could be more competent in the language? I suspect not.

Um, so that aforementioned grumpiness doesn’t represent speculative affirmation, does it? It’s not always easy, even if it is an effort to make a life philosophy.

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Caveat: Mordor Weather

The farmers have been burning the rice stubble in their fields, these days.  The air is often smoky.  Combine this with the fact that Glory County has a propensity for coastal fog-type weather, and you get these days when the lowering sun is just a red-orange disk pasted to a hazy, smooth sky that's the same color as end-of-the-week school-cafeteria spicy fish soup.

This morning, it's so foggy out I can't even make out the shiny blue roof of the Hyundai Oilbank gas station 30 meters in front of my apartment building, much less the highway beyond that.

I was so exhausted last night.  A week that started in the hospital with food poisoning, and ended with the third graders finally performing their little musical, combined with a right-at-the-same-time visit to our newly remodeled language classroom by the county education superintendent – Ms Ryu was frazzled and panicked as we all scrambled to make it "inspection ready" to meet our vice principal's peculiar, vaguely military notion of orderliness and presentability.  The bigwigs came and admired the technology and Ms Ryu talked a mile-a-minute. 

It seems I availed myself, more or less – the hotshots were a little bit impressed with the pet foreigner teacher who could actually say a few coherent sentences in Korean.  The defining moment was as they were leaving, and the superintendent shook my hand, and I said, gesturing at Ms Ryu, "이선생님이 열심히 하세요" [this teacher works hard].  I think that set the right tone of humility and respect, and at the same time, gave her some often unreceived positive light from her higher-ups.  I hope it wasn't too forward of me to offer praise of a coworker in this way – I know Korean office politics work in weird and mysterious ways, as compared to in Western culture.

And then, like that, it was all over.  There were parents and proud, happy children all over the school.  Some kids stopped by, wondering about the afterschool classes, but they had been cancelled.  I had expected to have to stay late, but instead, sitting a little bit bored in front of the computer at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, winding down from so much intensity and stress, I read on the screen a little pop-up message from the administrative office that the vice principal was pleased with how hard everyone had worked for the arts fair, and that therefore we were free to leave at 4 pm instead of 5. 

I read the message, in my wackily-pronounced Korean, out loud to my co-teacher, Ms Lee. 

"What, really?" she exclaimed in English.  She ran over to where I was sitting (she had been sitting at the desk with the fancy new computer that, coincidentally, is too fancy to run the antiquated messaging software the school uses, so she hadn't seen the message, and I knew that).

"Do you know what that means?" she asked.

"Yes.  We can leave early." 

"Wow, your Korean is getting really good."

It felt very good, at that. 

Still, I got home not much earlier than I normally do, though – I only managed a slightly earlier bus back from Hongnong, and I stopped in the 축협 하나로 grocery on the way back from the bus terminal.  I bought lots of juice, some tomatoes, and one of my decadences:  plasticky Korean processed cheese.  I felt really OK, but exhausted.

And, I was terrified of going out to the regular Friday night's pizza and beer gathering of foreigner teachers – because that pizza and beer is now mentally linked with my food poisoning experience.  That was what I'd eaten right before getting so horribly sick, a week ago.  I'm not sure I'll be able to eat pizza or drink beer for a long, long time, given how… erm, vividly… it all came back up.  Even if that wasn't the actual source of the infection – since no one else got it, that I know of, I have my doubts.  But what in the world was it, then?  Who knows.

I stayed home, watching some Korean drama that I can't understand, and was fast asleep with the TV still on at 7:30 pm.  And then I had a restless night.  Ever since I stopped the morning coffee (which I did after getting sick because of the nausea and meds), my sleep has been weird and uneven.  I woke up 5 or 6 times in the night, even surfing the web for about 20 minutes at 1 or 2 am.  I know that the lack of caffeine does this to me.

And so I dreamed cloudy, murky dreams filled with singing children and burning rice fields and political pundits.  A sort of postmodern Mordor of the mind.

Good morning.  I'm not going to do much this weekend.  That's the plan.  I just need to take it easy, I think.

Caveat: 티처 때문에 엉덩이 아퍼

재 방과후수업에서 이름이 유빈이라는 일학년 학생 있어요.  그녀는 아주 똑똑하지만 영어를 잘 못해요.  계단에서 저번에 그녀를  봤어요.  그녀는 뛰 놀고 있는 때 저는 조금 놀라게 생각해요.  그래서 떨어졌어요.  그녀는 울고되지 않았어요.  “티처 때문에 엉덩이 아퍼”라고 했어요.

Caveat: Apathy in exile

Unlike 2008, I felt very little optimism about this election.  I don't see myself as a typical disillusioned obamite, but I suppose the end result is the same – I failed to motivate myself to get my absentee ballot and vote in this election.  The Minnesota governor's race is the only I found even vaguely compelling, but divided three ways, it seemed to me unclear what to opt for – the two options I would consider, the Independent and the Democrat, both seemed stunningly uninspiring when I heard them speaking.  I like my congressman, Keith Ellison, well as could be expected, and he seemed in no danger of losing.  Anyway… so I didn't vote.  The whole tone of the election, nationwide, seemed just disturbing, on all sides. 

I'm grateful to be an expat.

I took a "sick day," today.  I'm not even really used to the idea that I actually have "sick days" – in hagwon land, there's no such thing.  This is my first sick day I've taken since I started working in Korea, 3 years ago.  Not the first time I've been sick, although the worst I've been sick, too, by far.

My bout with food poisoning has left me feeling pretty glum with the aftereffects on my health.  I'll muddle through, but I'm not feeling my shiny, vibrant self. 

Caveat: Universal Health Care vs Severe Food Poisoning – Smackdown!

Today was my first experience with urgent health care in the context of Korean universal health care.  Or in the context of any kind of universal health care, for that matter – I have only ever gotten sick before in countries and places where universal health care was only a fantasy.   I can only say:  the $10 I paid probably didn't cover much more than the cost of charging me with their fancy computer system.  My national health card has my name as 우이제레드 [u-i-je-re-deu], but the quality of the transliteration didn't seem severelyto affect the quality of my care.

In my three years living here, I've never been to a doctor or hospital, except for a mandatory health check-up / drug test.  I probably should have gone in sooner.  Like on Saturday.  But my distrust of doctors and medical care is well documented, so, as is my wont, I procrastinated, hoping it would "get better on its own."  It did, but only… sorta.

I spent the afternoon in the county hospital, after my department head, the competent and kindly Ms Ryu, took one look at me and said, "why are you at work?"  At the hospital, the good doctor Ryu (no relation to the department head), with his excellent English, put me at ease.  I am eternally indebted to him for rendering what might have been a stressful experience a rather less stressful one.

So, anyway.  Yes, I was diagnosed with climbing down off of a nasty case of severe food poisoning.  Probably.  It sounds about right, although it's hard to figure out what I ate that brought it on.  I'd already realized by Sunday that it wasn't just a bad case of stomach flu – I've had those, and it's not nearly the same level of fun, fun, fun.  The food poisoning, in and of itself, is probably mostly already past.

The explosive, high-pressure vomiting I got to experience over the weekend (and apologies for the no-doubt unwanted detail), however, had some additional unfortunate and undesirable side effects.  Possible "superficial" internal bleeding – hmm… sounds about right.   Ick.  Conjunctival hemorrhage – which is a fancy name for the fact that I vomited so hard, I caused a blood vessel in my eye to burst, giving me a rather vampiric look.  Yuck.  An inguinal hernia – which is to say, I somehow managed literally to heave an intestine right through my abdominal wall.  Squorlk.  Ouch.

I was dehydrated (which I sort of knew) from my weekend with the porcelain goddess, so he put me on a 1 liter IV.  I sat and listened to the elderly people around me in the emergency room confront their various ailments, while their adult children carried on around them.  I watched the drip-drip-drip.  I read the pharmacy prescription he'd given me, which was in Korean, so I didn't really understand much.

After a while, Dr Ryu brought me a cup of instant pumpkin soup from a machine, after he thought the medicine he'd given me had had a chance to quell some of the nausea.  That's one of those smells/moments that will probably be indelibly engraved on my memory now:  instant pumpkin soup = Yeonggwang General Hospital, an IV in my arm.  But not unbearable, for all that.

I'm home now.  My stomach is a little shaky, still.  But I'm going to try to eat something.  Sorry for the disgusting details – such is life, a-blogged-right-here.

Caveat: Really Sick

I worked yesterday.  It was something I sort of volunteered for, because my co-teacher had to do some make-up classes for the 4th grade (kids attend school on every-other-Saturdays but normally there's no English on Saturday classes). 

And I didn't really mind working, but yesterday was the worst day I've had in years.  Not because of the work, but because I was sick.  Really horribly sick.  Like throwing up sick.  Between first and second periods, in the bathroom, and later when I got home.  And feverish.  And just horrible.  Probably too-much-information.  Sorry.  Today I feel a little less horribe, so far.  I slept about 13 hours but it was on-and-off, waking up every hour, and dreaming these really horrible dreams.  I ate some toast, but feel wrung out like a used rag.

Caveat: 9) 부모님께 감사하는 마음을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다

“I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting my heart full of thanks to my ancestors.”

This is #9 out of a series of 108 daily Buddhist affirmations that I am attempting to translate with my hands tied behind my back (well not really that, but I’m deliberately not seeking out translations on the internet, using only dictionary and grammar).


7. 나의 진실한 마음을 저버리고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.
     “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, foresaking my true heart.”
8. 조상님의 은혜를 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.
     “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting the favors of our ancestors.”
9. 부모님께 감사하는 마음을 잊고 살아 온 죄를 참회하며 절합니다.

I would read this ninth affirmation as: “I bow in repentance of any misdeeds lived, forgetting my heart full of thanks to my ancestors.”

I fell asleep on the bus on the way home from work. That almost never happens. I must be very tired.

[UPDATE: So it occurs to me, on rereading this much later, that I have misunderstood this aphorism – this one, and all those that have the same structure “…misdeeds lived, forgetting…”. The “forgetting my X” is in fact an example of the “misdeeds lived” – which is to say, you’re repenting for failing to experience the feeling in question.]

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Caveat: Are You Ready?

Contrary to the "Korea has four seasons" bunk that is invented for all the children of Korea by the mysterious cultural propaganda machine, I don't really believe Korea has four seasons.  So I am guilty of cultural blasphemy.  In actuality, living in Korea is like spending half a year in a tropical country, and half a year in Siberia, with the advantage of getting to stay in one place.  Guess which half arrived yesterday?  The deceptively beautiful, puffy clouds were racing down from the north this morning, like an army of dragons in an ominous video game.

I love this kind of weather.  Although it does make me a little bit homesick for Minnesota.

Caveat: Octobery

The day was dropping hints of winter.  A blustery wind turning up leaves on suddenly old-looking trees, making them flash silver.  Huge bales of rice wrapped in white plastic scattered across fields of gold stubble and puddles and black mud and shoots of green weedy grass nourished by the recent rain.  Pale purple and white daisies and other unnamed fall flowers littering the highwaysides.

For the first time in months, I thought to myself, I'm cold.  This is not a bad thing.  I like being cold – that's why I long ago substituted my birth-home in California with my adopted home, Minnesota.

Little Ha-neul, of the charming smile, in my first grade afterschool class, had a prized new possession: a little chemical hand warmer in the shape of a dunkin-donut, with advertising to match.  She was holding it to her neck like a pet bunny. We drew zoo animals in that class, while Mr Choi slept soundly at his desk in the front of the room, despite how loud they were. 

The pines on the hills, as I rode the bus home, danced.  The sky was gold and pink.  I listened to Korn, and Gordon Lightfoot.  I stopped at the chuk-hyeop for juice and toilet paper, and by the time I reached my apartment, the daylight was almost disappeared.

Caveat: Blah

Yesterday I didn't go hiking.  I had had this plan that I was going to go into Gwangju and meet a friend, but that fell through, too.

So I ended up having a really blah, dull Saturday.  I intended to try to get into Gwangju later in the afternoon, because a fellow foreigner-in-Yeonggwang is in a band in Gwangju, and he'd invited me to come see his band play.  But somehow, as the rain started and I looked out my window, feeling a bit melancholy, I lost my motivation.

It was an exhausting week, last week.  A lot of ups and downs, with the sixth grade and my afterschool classes and my positivity at the beginning of the week. 

And on Thursday, there was that demo class event.  I don't think I told about that, here.  School was released early on Thursday, so the teachers could go to workshops and demonstration (open) classes at Yeonggwang Elementary School.  Normally, it seems like a lot of the foreign teachers don't get brought along to such events, but there was going to be a demo English class, too, and my coteacher asked if I wanted to go along.

Some coteachers are more inclusive of their foreign teachers than others.  I would rank mine as somewhere in the middle.  There are foreigners here in Yeonggwang County who get included in absolutely nothing that goes on in their school.  There are others who get included in everything.  To a certain extent, I find that I have to pay really close attention, and ask "what's going on?" on a regular basis, to get included in things.  I wonder if it works the same for the Korean teachers.  I keep coming back to my epiphanic realization, some months back, that being informed, in a Korean workplace, is 100% the responsibility of the underlings, not the managers, as we tend to paradigmatize it in the West.

Anyway, this little demo class represents a huge milestone, for me.  The demo class itself wasn't perfect, but it provided a lot of good teaching ideas which I wrote down for later thought.  But after the demo class there was a meeting to discuss it.  A bunch of Korean teachers, talking in Korean, about thoughts and impressions.  The American coteacher who'd been part of the presentation was there, but I know his level of Korean is so low that he was just zoning out.  But I had the truly amazing experience of actually following, and trying to follow, parts of the meeting. 

I don't want to give the impression I understood even half.  I have been telling people that my ability to understand the spoken Korean around me hovers at around 10%.  But that's not bad.  And if I really concentrate, and the topic of conversation is known ahead of time (as it was in this meeting), I can sometimes get up to understanding 20~30%.  That's not enough to actively participate in a conversation.  But it's enough to not get bored.

In fact, it's downright exhausting, trying to stay alert.  The meeting was like an hour-long listening test.  And, when it came my turn to talk, I stubbornly decided to try to say something in Korean, despite the fact that them all being English teachers meant that I could have spoken in English, like the other foreign teacher there.  Was I showing off a little bit?  I'm not sure that was the motivation… more like, trying it out.  I only said two sentences.  I said the class was interesting.  And that there had been a lot of good ideas.  At least, that's what I hope I said.

I see the meeting as a milestone, because of that effort to use Korean in a meeting with Korean coworkers.  It was mentally challenging.   And maybe I embarrassed myself.  But I felt like it was a good thing.

But so… just to explain, yesterday, I just felt tired out.  Not depressed and burned out.  Just tired out, from a mentally challenging week.  So I ended up doing basically nothing.  Reading.  Surfing the web.  Watching TV.  We'll see …

 

Caveat: A Single Day’s Journal [less incomplete than before]

I don’t love every incidental of my job. I fear and distrust the caricature of bureaucratic malevolence that is my vice principal. My principal seems to judge his staff largely on the basis of their skill as volleyball players, rather than on their competence as teachers – and because of this, I rate as a liability rather than as an asset, in his view of the school organization. The administrative office has epically bungled my housing situation, and I have consequently endured interminable and yet untellable travails of minor expense and mild inconvenience. Some of my coworkers are either so shy or so xenophobic that I dread interacting with them. And of course, the Korean Communication Taboo frequently imposes its unexpected and unforeseeable frustrations.

Oh, yesterday, I had a really difficult day. I ended up grumpy and frustrated. The thing is… I’ve been having some really good days, and feeling really good about my job, lately. So yesterday was frustrating because it felt like a major loss of progress, a major step backwards. The sixth graders during the regular morning classes were being rude, rowdy, and there was nothing my coteacher or I could do to bring things back under control. I felt like a lot of the problem was that my coteacher and I don’t know how to “use” each other effectively, and I blame myself and my lack of experience for that.

So. Hard day.

Yet, despite these issues, and despite yesterday, the fact is that my “on the ground” work, in the classroom, has been going simply great. I am not a perfect teacher, I’m sure. I’m probably deficient in many ways, that I can’t even perceive. But I have fun. Even yesterday, I had great fun with my afterschool classes, where I have a lot of autonomy and control.

Mostly, I really like my job, in a sincere and deep-felt way, and I derive immense satisfaction from my interactions with the children and even many of my coworkers.

On this most recent past Monday, for some reason, I felt this even more strongly than usual. As I arrived home after a tiring yet overall satisfying day, I had this weird, unwonted, utterly guileless thought: “I like my job.” The several days since then haven’t gone so smoothly, but regardless – perhaps this is a kind of pep-talk to myself – I’ve decided to make a little journal of Monday’s minutiae, as a record of a “typical” good day in my current career.

*-*

[Monday, October 18, 2010]

I awoke at 5:20, roughly. I have an alarm set, always, but most days, I wake up before the alarm. I wake up very slowly. I think about things. I doze, and let the “snooze” feature of my alarm earn its keep. Finally, at about 5:45, I get up, turn on the electric kettle, and get out some instant coffee. I love brewed coffee, but I’m a deeply lazy person, especially first thing in the morning, and I love convenience much more than brewed coffee. For that reason, I use instant coffee. I need the caffeine more than any kind of spectacular taste.

I put on something warmer to wear. I still keep my window wide open 24/7, and the nights, these days, are cool. Under my cover, I don’t need extra clothing, but up and about, I feel the slight chill. I open my little netbook computer, and begin to wonder what I will write in the blog. I write some fragments of dreams in my more private journal, and I open a text file of a story-in-progress, in the off chance that I’ll think of what to put next. Not likely, but it’s perhaps good to be optimistic, right?

I surf to my most typical websites: LA Times, The Atlantic magazine, Facebook. What’s happening in the world? I find an article in a blog, that interests me, and follow links to something new. I record notes in my “websurfing journal” – mostly just pasting links with one- or two- word observations or snippets of thought. I am an unrequited but unrepentant scholar, at heart.

I drink some coffee. This morning, I decide to have toast for breakfast, with my approximately four cups of coffee. I generally have either toast, or, if I’ve got left over rice, I’ll have a Korean breakfast of rice and kimchi.

I finally choose something to put into my blog – many times, I have things partially or even completely “pre-written” in my journal, and I just copy and paste them into the blog. Other times, I just write it out, right at the moment, in the box on the administrative website. This morning, I do the latter, pasting in a long quote from a blog site I have open.

I motivate myself, finally, and jump up. I brush my teeth, use the bathroom, shave, shower, get dressed. Pretty fast. As usual, I’ve put off motivating until the last possible moment. I rush out the door at 7:30. I’d committed myself to getting to school early, this morning, because there is a lesson plan I promised my coteacher that I would to put together for our 6-2 class (6-2 means 6th grade, 2nd classroom). I’m really running rather late, this morning. I live just under 2 km from the bus terminal. I have to jog the whole way, to make it on time. Casually, I can walk the distance in about 16 minutes. Marching “quick time,” I can make it in 12, which is my normal pace. Today, I made it in 8 minutes. So, I don’t miss the 7:40 bus. Oh well… I needed the exercise.

I listen to my mp3 player on the bus. I’ve got a folder with some tracks by Brit alterna band, Muse, looping. I’m particularly fixated on a track called “Map of the Problematique” (which sounds like the name of a chapter in a book of contemporary literary criticism). I look out the window at the stunningly beautiful although unspectacular, rural scenery of my world. I read random pages in my Korean dictionary. I’m not sure this really helps me that much, but I’ve always been a compulsive consumer of reference materials, and at least this way, I’m staying topical vis-a-vis my desire to improve my Korean.

I arrive at work at around 8:15, after walking the just-under-one-kilometer length of Hongnong’s “high street”, from the town’s bus terminal.

I step into the still silent halls of the school, I switch out of my street shoes and into my one dollar plastic sandals, greet the school caretaker, and go down to the new English classroom. I hate this new English classroom: it is stark and uninteresting, when viewed from a child’s eye, and it fails to take into account myriad details of the sorts of things real teachers actually need or use: no bulletin boards, bland and generic decoration such as might be found in a high-end travel agency, poorly configured storage space with unused bookshelves but zero closets. Numerous gadgets, but no rainbows. It is the embodiment of that philosophy of education that holds that technology and military-style organization can make up for poor leadership and a lack of teaching skill and a lack of teaching “heart.” Which isn’t to say I believe my coteachers or myself lack teaching skill or “heart”.. .but I often suspect that the school’s administration feels this way.

I put together a lesson plan for the 6-2 class that involves a gameshow concept that I’ve been riffing on lately. I’ve been using it in some of my afterschool classes: give an “answer,” Jeopardy-style, and wait for the kids to come up with a question. Pay out “cash” (my ubiquitous play money) for good “questions.” The kids seem to like it, and the 6-2 class is exceptional, in that they’re much better behaved than the other two sixth grade classes, and therefore my coteacher and I had agreed that they “deserved” something more fun.

School starts, and we go to the 6-1 class first. 6-1 is not the class of angels that 6-2 is. There are rowdy elements, but it’s not the “Welcome Back Kotter” basket case of academic rejects that 6-3 is, either. It’s the “middle” group. We have a hard but treadmill-like class, reviewing the ridiculous memorization material that the county education office mandates for the English curriculum. I’m not philosophically opposed to memorization, per se, but the stuff put out by the education office is so devoid of context, and so full of mistakes and unnatural, non-native-speaker-style language, that it almost defeats its own purpose. I try to keep my criticisms of this to myself, but it can tend to sap one’s enthusiasm, when required to focus so much on such poor curriculum.

Then, the 6-2 class is – lo and behold – canceled. This is the way things go, when working in Korea. Last minute changes with no warning, for no clear reason. There’s an upcoming sixth grade assembly, and the 6-2 teacher wants to focus their time on preparing, rather than have an English class. I respect the 6-2 teacher a lot – her class is not a group of angels just by virtue of fate or coincidence, obviously – I assume there’s something in her teaching style and classroom management skills that has created this behavioral miracle. For this reason, I don’t resent or in any way criticize her cancellation of the class, even to myself – it’s her judgment call. But I’ll miss the positivity of that particular group of kids, and I’m not sure when I’ll get to use the lesson plan I came in early to put together.

So I have a free period, after recess. I spend the time preparing for my afterschool classes. I go online to check my email, but only briefly – the new classroom configuration is not hospitable to lurking and web-surfing. In this respect, I wonder if there was some intentionality on the part of the administration, because they were in some way trying to discourage this kind of behavior on the part of their English department. But I doubt it. Nothing about the new classroom spells out “planning” or kid-centered “intentionality,” to be honest. It’s the sort of classroom that someone who doesn’t work with children would come up with. That isn’t far from the truth, I expect.

At 12:30, we have lunch. Lunch is always one of my favorite times of the day, even when the food is of dubious quality. I love seeing all the kids, hyper and yet somehow managing to stay within the behavioral constraints of feeding themselves. They grab their steel trays, chopsticks and spoons, and go past the lunch ladies scooping out rice and soup and kimchi and a few other random things. They zigzag in weird patterns as they emerge from the food line, trying to find the row of tables where their particular class has been sited by their homeroom teacher – each time it’s different. The homeroom teacher may or may not be paying any attention whatsoever. You can learn a lot about homeroom teachers by watching how they manage their kids in the lunchroom. Some sit with their kids reliably, and inspect trays. Others join other teachers and seem unaware their kids are in the lunchroom. I’m not sure either pattern represents something optimal – I could seen benefits to both approaches. But it’s interesting to watch, sociologically.

I don’t remember what was actually given to eat, on Monday. The kimchi has been atrocious, lately – a byproduct of a national cabbage shortage crisis. It ends up meaning that the lunchroom is skimping on quality, I suppose. Unlike the kids, the adults don’t get served by the lunch ladies – we have our own line where we serve ourselves. I try to fill my tray in such a way that I know I confidently empty my tray completely. I like that feeling of closure of having an empty tray at the end of lunch – I hate seeing how much food is wasted, to be honest. Koreans, having been a nation on the verge of starvation 50 years ago, have become very cavalier with how they throw around food, I think. It makes me a little bit sad.

I love lunch because dozens of kids say a soft “hello, teacher” as they walk past me. I always try to say hello back – although sometimes it makes me feel like a greeter at a party. After lunch, kids will chase after us (the four English teachers – we always eat lunch as a “team,” which seems to be nearly unique to our department, and I’m not sure where this tradition comes from or who came up with it) and say “hello” or ask the random, peculiar questions that ten year olds can come up with, given very limited English. “Do you like tigers?” “I’m a crazy monkey!”

I have adopted the Korean habit (not universal, but definitely encouraged and broadly popular) of brushing my teeth directly after lunch. I stand at the hand-washing sinks that are outdoors in the courtyard, next to the English classroom. The result is that I always have an audience of between two and twenty children, when I brush my teeth. When I finish, I talk to any that are around. To the first student: “Hello. What are you doing?” “No.” Haha… “no” meaning “I have no idea how to answer this question you’ve asked me.” “Are you playing?” Quiet, shy, vigorous nod of the head. Second student: “Teacher! Teacher! That boy is crazy!” “Yes, I see that.” Confident, cheerful, vigorous nod of the head.

I go back to the English classroom, and discuss ways to improve the sixth grade class with my coteacher. Not much progress has been made here, obviously. But we keep trying. “We must work hard to learn to be better teachers,” she always says. I agree. She’s right. It’s why I respect her, even in her mistakes.

The afterschool classes are always what I look forward too. Even the hyperactive, difficult-to-control first graders. The first grader class starts at 2:30.

[… uh oh… out of time. I will post the rest, later… ]

[OK. Look, here’s the rest – as of 2010-10-22 07:00]

No lesson plan I’ve ever made has survived an encounter with these children. They’re more difficult to manage than a herd of cats. If I look away from any given student, odds run about 70% that that kid will be hitting, jumping on, racing against, or mischievously distracting another student. No matter which student. That’s just the way it works. Yet, despite this, they’ve grown on me. A lot. And I can feel confident that although sometimes I yell or lose my cool with them, they seem to like me, and look forward to my class.

The plan today was to read a little story in this series of ultra-beginner-level story books. The stories literally consist of a single sentence repeated with different nouns, which are shown in photograph illustrations. Today, the sentence is: the x is up in the tree. We had a parrot up in the tree. We had a lizard up there. We had a cat, I think. There was an ant, which, looking at the picture, I thought was a spider, until Ji-min officiously corrected me. I admitted my mistake. Then we did a little bit of TPR (I give commands like “hands up!”, “sit down” etc.) while I took roll-call. Lately I’ve been not using my little paper cut-out tokens with their names on them, to take roll, partly because I’ve reached a point where I know 90% of their Korean names and it’s easier for me to just tick them off from my list.

After the TPR, I get them in a chair, and I pass out some animal puppets. This never goes smoothly. About half the students immediately become weirdly transformed into hopped up crack addicts when they see the puppets, and they crowd around grabbing and pawing for them to get the “best” ones. The other half hold back and look on their peers disdainfully, almost preternaturally like bored teenagers. But as soon as the first riot dies down, they come up in a second wave and gather the dregs. Any puppets unselected by the students are to be seen lying on the floor like the detritus of an epic battle with Noah’s ark as the setting.

So I begin the plan: we’re going to role-play this little storyline. “The X is up in the tree.”

Here, look: I’m a tree. Here’s a hippo (holding puppet at my shoulder). “Repeat / 말하세요 [mar-a-se-yo = please say]: The hippo is in the tree.” The students get the conceit, because the immediately begin to debate the possibility of a hippo in a tree, in Korean. Oh, that’s funny. Definitely.

Now, volunteers? One student raises her hand: Ji-min. Much better English than the rest, and very serious, a lot of the time, but sneaky, too. She comes up to me. She has a mouse puppet, I think. She puts the puppet at my shoulder, while I pretend to look like a tree. “The mouse is in the tree,” I say. She repeats, easily. But something’s going wrong. The other students are racing forward. There will be no turn-taking, here. All the animals want to get into the tree, at the same time. Uh oh.

I decide that I have to go with the flow, here. I am tackled by 20 first graders with animal puppets, all wacking me (*gently*) as they try to attain the best real-estate in the “tree.” I begin to sink to my knees, and the game becomes: knock down the tree under the weight of elephants, lions, bears, cats, dogs, ducks, monkeys, etc., who all want to be in the tree. But I think. Hmm… maybe someone else would like to be the tree. So I get them all sitting back in their chairs, more or less, and I ask for volunteers, again. It’s the boy named Jeong-an, of course. He’s sees the possibilities, already. I even have a little corollary to Murphy’s Law, that I coined: instead of “If it can go wrong, it will,” it goes “if it can go wrong, Jeong-an will appear.” But he’s a cute kid.

The kids get excited when they realize I’m going to let them repeat the tree game, this time with one of their own as victim, and that it’s not a one-off moment of fun. I’m thinking to myself that the main concern, here, is to make sure it doesn’t get out of hand. Different kids have different levels of tolerance for being wacked (*gently*) by animal puppets until they’ve collapsed to the floor in fits of giggles, while everyone’s yelling vague variations on “The X is in the tree.” But that’s what we do. The similarity to trying to teach first graders American-style tackle football is more than passing.

Time goes quickly. My next class is already lurking in the halls, peering in through doors and windows in amazement at the kinds of fun my first graders seem to be permitted to get up to. Finally, I release the first graders with a last “Hands up! Bye” – which is a little routine of mine. The third graders are a little bit moody. They suspect (accurately) that they’re not in for as much fun, because Ms Ryu has me on a mission: we’re trying to put together a little English-language musical that’s coming at the beginning of November, and so for that, we need to practice, practice, practice.

The practices never go super smoothly. The kids know their lines pretty well, already, but the issue is a matter of focus – there is too much “down time” between each individual kid’s lines, and during that “down time,” attention tends to wander. Fast. And far. The musical is a variation on Peter and the Wolf (it’s the same thing I attempted over the summer, but now, with more support from Ms Ryu and the kids’ homeroom teachers, and knowing it will be “real,” on stage, in a couple of weeks, the kids are taking it more seriously).

There are a bunch of wolf characters, and while I’m working with the wolf characters on something, I turn around to see that my duck (So-hyeon – a diminutive and innocent little “angel” who goes by Angelina) is viciously assaulting my sheep (Je-won – who insists his English name is Barack, much to my delight). And a few moments later, when I’m working with these animals in Peter’s menagerie, several of the wolves decide to have a spa, and begin lounging on stage left playing with each other’s hair. But who can complain? They’re good-spirited kids, and at least, unlike the first graders, they notice when I’m yelling at them to stop, most of the time.

Finally, at 4:10, Peter, the wolves, and their animal friends file out, and the advanced class files in. It’s still on the books as the sixth grade afterschool class, but at some point, the original definition broke down, because my sixth grade class has exactly one sixth grader who attends regularly, at this point. And then it has about three fifth graders, a fourth grader, and a third grader. I think what’s happened is that the kids mom’s who either believe or want to believe that their kids are the best at English in their school, should be “with the sixth graders” because that, naturally, would be the most advanced class, which is where little Gil-dong or I-seul needs to be. It’s a lot like hagwon biz, that way: the parents decide the level of competence of their child, overriding any judgment on the part of the teachers or administration. And parents’ judgment of their kids ability will tend to be infused with a little bit of – shall we say? – vanity. Which is not to say that my advanced class isn’t pretty advanced. These kids are pretty good, definitely.

In my advanced class, we’re making “diaries.” Not really diaries – I’m modeling myself on a kids’ book I bought back in the US last fall (at my niece and nephew’s school book sale in suburban Denver), called Junie B’s Essential Survival Guide to School. It has a sort of “kids view” of life at school, with sections on school supplies, school transportation to and from, school personalities, etc. So I’m having the kids make their own versions, one chapter per class. The chapter in progress today is “How to go to school” – focusing on transportation. But I encourage the students to get whimsical, and I love some of the results. Nam-su writes that he goes to school by ant – and he draws a picture of a stick figure standing on the back of about a 100 tiny ants. Da-yeon writes that some days, she goes to school “by Simpsons,” and she draws extremely accurate depictions of Bart and Lisa, but with new jobs working as a pair of draft horses drawing a chariot. And Challie (Charlie? – I can’t ever remember his Korean name, I hate to admit) draws a great little picture of a character teleporting into school “by brain.” Awesome.

The advanced class is small and well-behaved. There are no hyper children in that group, really. So it’s a nice kind of calming, “cool down” class for the end of the day. I let the kids leave at 4:50, and begin to clean up. Between the chaos of the first graders and the rearranged desks of the third grade class, there’s a lot to do. I operate in a “borrowed” classroom, that belongs to my colleague Mr Choi, so I feel obligated to try to leave it in reasonably decent condition. And I always bring so much paraphernalia to class: puppets, paper, crayons, attendance folders, etc., that it takes two or three trips back down to the English classroom to get everything moved back. I put the desks back in neat rows, and try to pick up the worst of the trash on the floor, and put the redistributed pens and pencils in neat piles on one of the side boards (who knows where these pens and pencils come from – I suspect that the kids “steal” them from inside the desks of the second graders whose homeroom this is).

Mondays and Fridays, because my last class ends at 4:50 and because I then have to move my stuff back to the English classroom and get it put away, I sometimes miss my regular 5:15 bus back home to Yeonggwang. I can tell from the clock that that will be the case today, so I don’t even bother trying to race to the Hongnong bus terminal, but decide to wait a little bit longer and then catch the 5:40. I go online and check my email, and do a google search for some kind of online “list randomizer” – I’m looking for something that can be used to entertainingly select kids at random from a list. My coteacher already has such a tool, but I keep thinking “there’s got to be a better way.” I find a few candidates to investigate further, later. Sometimes, though, I think going “low tech” and going back to a cup with pencils with names on them would be best. If teaching in a Korean public school classroom is having any major, profound effect on my teaching philosophy, it’s that more and more, I am becoming “anti-technology.” I just don’t think gadgets and technology make for better teaching. They tend to distract the children from the interpersonal interaction, which in language learning is especially important. Maybe there are ways to use technology that aren’t so distracting, but I’ve yet to see good examples.

I walk down to the bus terminal and get on the bus for home. The bus is utterly empty except for me and one old lady. I suspect it’s too early for the power plant commuters (who mostly tend to commute on company-owned buses anyway, if they don’t have their own cars), and too late for the school workers. And who else commutes away from Hongnong at the end of the day? It’s an end-of-the-line kind of town.

I listen to tracks by Talking Heads on my mp3 player. There’s a track called “Found A Job” that I absolutely think is one of my favorite music tracks of all time. The lyrics are both concrete – telling a story – yet also philosophically complex, raising interesting issues about popular culture. And I love the rhythm and music, too, perhaps partly because it’s always a bit of a nostalgia trip for me. The summer that I was living in my car, traveling from Duluth across the Upper Peninsula, in Ottawa and finally in Boston, I had only three (3!) cassettes that worked in my decrepit Sony Walkman that I’d wired into a rube-goldberg car stereo for myself: Talking Heads More Songs About Buildings and Food, Psychedelic Furs Mirror Moves, and David Bowie Space Oddity. So all the songs from those three albums are engraved upon my brain at a very deep level, I think.

A bunch of middle schoolers and high schoolers get on the bus at Beopseongpo, and I always get some low-grade entertainment out of their efforts to pretend to be cool and not notice there’s a foreigner on the bus (or, on the other hand, the blustery, “Hello! How are you?” that they will sometimes deliver). When we arrive in Yeonggwang, I set off across the bus terminal bus-parking-area, and enter the warren of market stalls behind the terminal. I can see the old ladies swatting flies laconically as they squat behind their buckets of octopi and raw fish. I love to watch the still-alive crabs trying to escape from their buckets, which are already filled with soy sauce and chopped onions. Do they realize they’re soup? It’s poignant.

I go out the “secret” back way from the market, and up the grade, through the corner of the main market area, and then behind the Co-op grocery (축협하나로마트 [chukhyeop hanaro mateu]) and across the vast gravel parking lot where the every-five-days market is held. I slip between two buildings and cross the rotary (traffic circle), climb the hill (not steep) past the various apartments, past the “Glory Tourist Hotel” and finally behind the gas station to my building.

I am inspired to call my mom. I don’t do this as often as I should. It’s not that I don’t like talking to my mom. I get stuck in routines, and my attention wanders away from getting around to it, a little bit. And then I’ll remember, but when I remember, it’s not a good time to call, or I’m too busy to be able to sit down and call. Queensland is only an hour ahead of South Korea, and neither celebrates Daylight Savings concepts, so I don’t even have the “time zone excuse.” I remember the complexities of calling from Chile to the US, where the time zones lined up, but both countries have daylight savings time, but on opposite seasonal schedules that don’t quite match up. So depending on the month, I was either same time, one hour ahead, or one hour behind Minneapolis. It was like a speeded up version of continental drift.

So anyway, it’s been a long time since I talked to my mother. And it turns out she’s got company coming for dinner. So we don’t talk long. Hopefully, I’ll call her again before too much time goes by. I decide I need to use a few of the tomatoes that are over-ripening on my shelf, and in a moment of culinary inspiration, I create grilled cheese sandwiches stuffed with tomatoes and horseradish sauce (which also seems to be on the verge of going bad in my fridge). Hey, that’s pretty tasty.

I end the day by listening to Minnesota Public Radio online, and begin the initial draft of what becomes this narrative. I fall asleep earlier than usual – maybe around 10:00. I guess I’m tired.

I’m still not sure this little daily journal is in final form. I’ll keep tweaking and making small changes, I expect. Stay tuned. Or not.

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