Caveat: The Orphan Father

There is a social phenomenon in Korean culture that has been receiving some press recently, which goes by the name "orphan fathers."   It's the situation that arises when upper middle class and wealthy Korean families decide to give up on the Korean education system completely, and buy a second home abroad (almost always in an English-speaking country, such as Canada, the U.S., etc.), for the sole purpose of having their kids live there and attend schools in that country.

The fathers (it's inevitably the fathers) keep their well-paying jobs in Korea, and the mother and the kids move to the second home abroad, and he supports them.  Visas are less problematic since they're not actually working in the host country – they're just there pumping Korean-earned money into the economy, so host countries welcome the phenomenon.

But of course, it has led to more than one family break up, and the parents receive a lot of curiosity and sympathy:  the fathers working impossible hours and sending all their money abroad; the mothers in a foreign land, often without their own level of linguistic competence and socially isolated.  Lots of heart-wrenching documentaries on the topic. 

OK, we've covered the background.  What I'm really going to post here is a small little essay one of my students wrote.  Amy is a 5th grader, in the intermediate-to-advanced elementary cohort (we call it ER1).  She was asked to discuss her opinions on Korea's education system.  I post what she wrote, verbatim (errors and all), because it's remarkably apropos my own post of yesterday, and further, provides an example of the extent to which the students themselves, even at a fairly young age and with limited language skills, are conscious of Korea's ESL education shortcomings. Of course, I also like it because she agrees with me about the need for English-only classrooms (I think, if I understand her thoughts correctly).

Korean english study system is very old.  Because many students study abroad english.  They learn english and leave there homes.  There is left the father.  The father named orphan father.  Orphan father is only lives in home.  Orphan father is social problem.  The solution is Korea english system change.  Teacher and student speak english in school.  The textbook is variety level needs.

Caveat: Markets and Methods

I'm approaching the two-thirds (eight month) mark of my one-year commitment, here.  And so, I want to try to set down my reflections about what I came here to do, and what I have been doing.

I guess I'm not that happy with things.  There's the professional side – the desire to come and "try out" teaching, again – to try to replace the lucrative but ultimately frustrating and disillusioning career I'd been organically creating for myself in the world of database software development and business systems analysis.  Then there's the personal side – the various personal challenges I'd set for myself as part of coming here.

First, I can only say I'm pretty disappointed in myself, with respect to the latter category.  I haven't been using my extra-curricular time either productively or even particularly enjoyably.   My creative writing has been at a near standstill since arriving in Korea last September.  The work on my perennial never-started thesis on Persiles remains… never-started.

And my efforts to learn the Korean language keep crashing against the double barrier of – on the one hand – a lack of opportunities (and/or willing tutors) to have intensive real language practice, and – on the other hand – my own inexcusable deficit in motivation.

Not only that:  I haven't even been particularly prompt or efficacious in taking care of those small bureaucratic necessities, such as my income tax problem.  I procrastinate on doing paperwork, or miss the appropriate time to make a call to the states, or forget to follow up on an email to my accountant.

Meanwhile, I muddle along in the professional sphere.  Before launching into a diatribe of tribulations and complaints, however, I should underscore one important fact:  despite everything, I still enjoy going to work each day more than I did when working in Long Beach.  I enjoy the children almost without exception – even the most behaviorally obtuse 6th grader is a huge improvement over my utterly brilliant yet fearsomely erratic and eerily unsupportive boss in Long Beach.  And the school's staff politics are nothing compared to the backstabbing head-games prevalent at Paradise Corp in Burbank.  And the 40-something hours I put in each week are certainly an improvement over the 80-plus I was putting in before  – if I remain disappointed in how I am utilizing my off-time (see above).

So now, regarding the job:  a critical review of my working experience in Korea, so far.  At the outset, it is important to separate two things:  1) criticisms and thoughts about my own performance and behavior on the job, versus 2) criticisms and thoughts about my professional environment – the school, my supervisors and colleagues, the general situation of ESL education in South Korea.  These things are interconnected to a high degree, however – especially in the sense that the same subjective feeling or experience can be discussed in view of either perspective, and the former, above, always will color the latter.  For this reason, keep in mind that I combine these two issues indiscriminately in what follows.

First, I have some ideas about pedagogy and method.  My exposure to these concepts is not extensive. I would consider it extensive if I'd managed a minor or major in foreign language education, for example, instead of just several courses on TESOL taken in late 80's, and the one intensive course in teaching-Spanish-as-a-foreign-language at Penn in the mid 90's.  But, compared to my colleagues here, my theoretical range is deep and vast – which is not to say that such theoretical background is necessarily relevant, meaningful, or even helpful in the trenches.  But it cannot help but influence how I look at things.

Korean EFL education is, for the most part, in the grammar-translation dark ages.  Students are taught plenty of English grammar, and infinite lists of utterly de-contextualized vocabulary, but even after several years are frequently unable to construct more than basic sentences for conversation.  Of course there are exceptions, and plenty of parents have managed to send their kids off to relatives in an English speaking country, or to expensive vacation-time language camps.  But the hagwons (after-school academies) are almost exclusively in the Japanese "cram-school" model, and focus on rote instruction and test preparation.

Further, as far as I can tell, no one in my "chain of command" up to, at the least, the regional director of the schools I work for, has any evident training whatsoever in foreign language pedagogy, second language acquisition theory, and even seem to lack background in general linguistics and general elementary or adolescent pedagogy.

Efforts to apply curricula designed around more progressive ideas, such as a more communicative-based instruction (my personal preference), founder against a double resistance: staff members who are uncomfortable with it, and parents who are convinced that if little Iseul doesn't have a list of 50 words to memorize each night, she's being neglected by her teachers.  The ill-fated "debate program" I've been involved in test-flying has had exactly this happen to it, as it keeps being "cut back" and reduced in scope. 

But my most significant frustration boils down to a single core issue:  L2 versus L1.  In academic discussion of foreign language teaching methodology, L1 stands for the students' native language, and L2 stands for the "target" language.  For me, here, L1 = Korean, and L2 = English.  And the problem is that I remain deeply and philosophically committed to the idea that "good" foreign language instruction requires an unwavering dedication to L2-only classrooms.  And the fact is, that L1 is so dominant in the school where I teach, now, it's downright depressing.

Some of my colleagues seem to believe that my frustration with the predominance of Korean as the language of instruction and administration in the school is related to my own inability to speak it.  I wish they could have been present at the heated departmental meetings at Moorestown, New Jersey where I taught Spanish in 97-98.  I argued there, too, that a Spanish classroom should be a SPANISH classroom, even at the lowest levels.  And certainly my argument there wasn't influenced by the fact that I was weak in L1 (which there, and then, was obviously English).

There are reasons related to the nature of the job market here, however, that explain the predominance of L1 at least in part.  The fact is, truly qualified English speakers are difficult to come by, here.  At least several of my coworkers speak English at a level of competence and/or confidence that is inferior to some of their best students.  I in no way mean this as a criticism of them as human beings, nor even as concerned, dedicated teachers.  But when it is taxing work for ME to understand them and be understood by them, it is no wonder that in-classroom language devolves rapidly into Korean.

The Korean government seems to exacerbate the problem to some degree by, on the one hand squeezing supply through the injudicious creation and application of temporary worker laws, and on the other hand squeezing demand through mis-regulation of the private school markets.

I think that's enough, on theory.  Onto practice, where the shortcomings are more definitely my own.

Most notably (and depressingly), there is an emerging consensus that I'm not a very good teacher.  All the theory doesn't help much, in front of a bunch of unmotivated teenagers.  Coming from one or two people, I can dismiss such concerns as originating in either a misunderstanding or a lack of empathy, or perhaps in poorly understood cultural differences.  But not only have several people independently seemed to reach the conclusion here, but such feedback is not totally out of line with similar feedback I received in 97-98.

The core problem is:  1) I'm fundamentally too cerebral (which makes me "boring"), and 2) I'm too laid-back and too prone to attempt to interact with the kids as if they were adults (which means I have "classroom control issues").  I tend to try to tie the two problems together as both being features of my fundamental pedagogical philosophy, which is that I'm not supposed to be there to "motivate" students, but rather to "mentor" them – which is to say, I do great with self-motivated students who eagerly want to learn, but not so well with those whose own commitment to learning is limited.  All of which boils down to:  I'm only good at teaching students who are more or less the same type of student that I, myself, am. 

No matter how much I enjoy the company of the kids in class, and no matter how much I try to be more entertaining or "interesting," my essentially introverted personality causes me to disappoint my peers, my students, and myself. 

More than one of my friends and family have responded to these self-criticisms with the observation that I don't really belong as a teacher in a grade-school or high-school environment.  That I'm meant to be, and should be, a college teacher.  Easy to see, and to agree with.  But not an easy path to take, since the research-driven academic career clearly hasn't been my forte, so far.  I'm too unfocused, too much the dilettante or generalist. 

There are other criticisms, which I may have a better chance of conquering.  Most notably, people often complain that, more than other English speakers, I am "difficult to understand" and especially, that I speak "fast."  I get defensive about this, and return to the L2 acquisition theory I learned, pointing out that an unfamiliar language (and an unfamiliar accent within a given language) will always sound "faster" to the naive listener – this is a demonstrated "fact" of perceptual psychology, and exhaustive studies of speakers of different languages and different speakers of individual languages show a far smaller variation in "rate of speech" than what we perceive subjectively.  It is only familiarity and/or lack of familiarity that mostly impacts subjective perceived rate of speech.

Yet… surely to the extent it is objectively true, that must impact my ability to be an effective English teacher.  And in conclusion I have to admit that there are real reasons for this understandability problem that I have, that I can clearly identify, if I listen to myself with some objective introspection (is that a paradox?).

Firstly, I tend to use an overly large vocabulary, and I'm actually pretty bad at "dumbing down."  But part of the problem here comes back to the lack of a programmatic methodology to back me up.  If the curricula being applied in the school were sufficiently developed and sophisticated as to be able to provide clear lists of level-appropriate vocabulary (e.g. at level X, these words should be used… at level Y, these additional words should be known), I could use such lists to police my vocabulary fairly effectively, just as was done when I taught Spanish at the University of Pennsylvania, where each textbook had a teacher's guide with exhaustive lists of level-appropriate active and passive vocabulary, and all the texts were integrated into a broader curricular program. 

The other side of the "understandability" problem is more difficult – I also tend to use too much "fringe" grammar – that is to say, I get creative with things like word order and sentence structure, and experiment with the many regionalisms I've been exposed to over the years.  English "allows" this, but it is definitely not appropriate in an L2 universe.  And this issue does not recapitulate any issue I ever had with Spanish, which, despite my fairly high level of fluency, was still nevertheless always an L2 for me.  I do this "playing with grammar" almost unconsciously, and when I catch myself doing it, it's discouraging how pervasive I see it to be.

Perhaps, not all the news on the "boring teacher" front is bad news, however.  My colleague Grace sighed the other afternoon, "I'm becoming a boring teacher!"  Paradoxically, this complaint gave me hope – let me explain why.

First of all, Grace is the person at work whom I most respect.  She's not only the only person on the staff who is truly (i.e. "natively") bilingual, she's also a talented teacher who is clearly beloved and admired by her students.  If you ask our students who their favorite teacher is, the only answer I have ever seen in writing or in heard in speech is "Grace."  And their answers are well-reasoned – it's not just a matter of her being "easy" or "entertaining," which are sometimes features of popular teachers.  Instead, they will explain that she is demanding but fair, serious but kind, etc.  She's whom I would wish to emulate, if only I could figure out how.

And so, the fact that she was bemoaning the problem of becoming boring gave me hope, because it meant that perhaps I could blame the curriculum for at least some of my problem.  You see, this de-evolution of our curriculum toward the stone ages is in part the consequence of my original employer's having sold out to a large and expanding chain hagwon business.  Under its previous proprietors, the school was much less rigid in terms of curriculum, which had both advantages (such as the ability to be more creative in the classroom), but also disadvantages (such as a serious lack of guidance in terms of expectations).

The depressing side of the above is that if the big hagwon chains are being successful by pitching brutalist combinations of grammar-translation-style ESL instruction and Japan-style cram-school test prep, that doesn't send a very promising message about the current Korean ESL market.  And, as much as it pains me to say it, I believe very wholeheartedly in markets.  People really want this stuff.  So what does that say about the potential for enlightened ESL methodology?

None of which solves the underlying dilemma – am I going to keep trying to be a teacher?  Or go off on yet another tangent in life?  I've gotten some extremely discouraging feedback from my more candid (or perhaps less deluded) acquaintances:  something to the effect of, "if your blog is any reflection of your classroom personality, you really ARE boring."  And yet the bad news is, this is REALLY me.  This is how I write when I edit myself least, and these are the things I think about.

Caveat: Dreaming

I've had some strange dreams, lately.  This morning, I woke up after dreaming I was hectically trying to pack up all my possessions so that I could start a new job in a distant place.  This is an accurate enough revisit to the days before my departure, last August, from Minnesota.  But the place where I am doing the hectic packing is a sort of reconstruction of my apartment in Philadelphia from 95-96, not the place I was in last year in Minnesota.  And I keep losing my focus and going on these long, purposeless walks through an urban-industrial wasteland that looks like a cross between West Philly and Hibbing, MN (itself a sort of Eureka-on-the-Tundra, if you can visualize).  I find abandoned subway stations and randomly distributed boxes of old maps or books, that turn out to have been mine, once-upon-a-time.

I return to my apartment, only to drift away again.  The packing isn't getting done, and time is ticking away.  Finally I look at a clock and it's 23 minutes after midnight (what does THAT mean?).  I hurry to an attic space that doesn't resemble the Philadelphia apartment but instead looks exactly like attic in the H Street house in Eureka (circa 1974?).  But it's full of all my damn books, not in boxes and packed, as I'd left them, but back on shelves.  And then I hear music downstairs, and I go to see who's awake, and I fall down the stairs… I don't feel terror or pain at the falling, but a kind of visceral frustration at the lack of control.  And I reach the bottom of the stairs, and some unknown woman is standing there impatiently glaring at me, and I wake up.

Caveat: Poesía

Pablo Neruda, en su Poema de Amor #2:

En su llama mortal la luz te envuelve.
Absorta, pálida doliente, así situada
contra las viejas hélices del crepúsculo
que en torno a ti da vueltas.

Oh grandiosa y fecunda y magnética esclava
del círculo que en negro y dorado sucede:
erguida, trata y logra una creación tan viva
que sucumben sus flores, y llena es de trsiteza
.

Me puse a pensar en estos poemas tan magníficos hoy, mientras caminaba a mi trabajo, mirando los árboles que ofrecían sus flores a la nueva primavera.  Hace década y media que me dediqué a memorizar estos poemas, y lo cierto es que ya no los recuerdo.  Sin embargo, recuerdo algunos fragmentos, y traje conmigo a Corea mi pequeño texto de los poemas que compré en Temuco, Chile (lugar de nacimiento de Pablo Neruda).  Entonces cito unas líneas arriba.
Aquí una foto que saqué hoy de los árboles que me trajeron estas memorias:
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Caveat: Rain

Yesterday was election day again – this time, legislative elections. The new president (I Myeong-Bak 이명박, elected in December) had a major victory for his conservative GNP – which means South Koreans are fed up with “soft on the North” policies of the liberal predecessors, among other things.  Though the most important issues were “pocketbook” ones – linked to the global economic downturn and especially that of the U.S. and Japan, with which South Korea is inextricably linked.
The day before yesterday, I So-Yeon (이소연) became the first South Korean in space, traveling to the International Space Station with some Russians on that reliable space workhorse, a Soyuz rocket. I learned about her from my students, yesterday, in a conversation about modern-day heroes, and then saw about in the news, too, once I realized what was going on.
It rained yesterday afternoon and into the night. A steady, spring rain, with zero risk of snow unlike the earlier late winter rains we have gotten.

Caveat: Test-Driven Curriculum

I'd like to talk a little bit about the infamous TOEFL.  This test is an international standard "test of English as a second language," created and administered by the same people who bring us the SAT, GRE, LSAT, MCAT and many others:  the Educational Testing Service of beautiful New Jersey, USA.  Despite its generic-sounding name, this is a for-profit corporation that essentially holds a global monopoly on certain sectors of the placement examination market. 

The test that is all the rage here in Korea, even for students as young as middle-schools, is what is called the iBT – a clever little acronym that stands for internet-based TOEFL (see? it's one of those acronyms that embeds another acronym; and further, it plays unnecessary games with case – i.e. capital vs lower case letters). 

This internet-based exam includes a speaking section, where the test-takers have to speak into a microphone, and the recording of what they say is uploaded to the test's website and farmed out to some presumably (hopefully?) competent evaluator of spoken English.  I imagine some poorly-paid sod in India or the Philippines, sitting in a cubicle and listening to a minute-long speech every two minutes, and entering a score of 0-4 (that's it, that's the basis) for each one. 

Each iBT speaking test requires 6 speeches, each about a minute long.  Each of the 6 speeches is in response to a slightly different type of question.  So, in my speaking class for my medium-advanced 7th and 8th graders (TP cohorts), we've abandoned the "Debate Program" (which, despite its shortcomings, I enjoyed teaching and at least some of the students seemed to get something out of), we have now adopted a textbook very specifically focused on nothing more than preparing students for the iBT speaking section. 

I'll withhold my already rather extensive list of complaints about the text.  What I really wanted to talk about was "artificiality and spontaneous speech acts."  These iBT speeches are not "natural" or spontaneous speech acts.  But… I nevertheless think they are a huge improvement over what there was before this test came along (e.g. the traditional TOEFL) – since at least it tries to test actual speaking competence.

Above and beyond the annoying textbook, each class period I try to have each student respond to a randomly selected iBT-style question – I've put 49 questions of the "personal preference" type (the name of the first question "type" of the 6 on each iBT test) onto little folded-up pieces of paper, and placed them into a paper dixie cup for the students to draw one out and respond to.  In this way I simulate the feel of the actual exam, where you get a question, have at most 15-20 seconds to prepare a response (really only enough time to take a few breaths and fully read the question), and then have to talk for 45-60 seconds into the microphone. 

Of course, finding real iBT "personal preference" questions online is unlikely.  And, there's the matter of the fact that my students ability level really isn't close to what's required for a successful assay of the real iBT.  So I've created a list of my own questions that have the same feel and style as the personal preference questions on the iBT, but maybe a little bit easier.  Because of the difficulty I had finding good sample questions online, I decided to post these questions I made – maybe someone will discover them thru google find them useful.  Here is the list:

1.Describe your best friend and tell why he or she is your best friend.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
2.Describe your favorite holiday spot and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
3.Describe your favorite hobby and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
4.What is an organization that you think benefits humanity and how does it do so?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
5.Describe your favorite school subject and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
6.What do you prefer to do between study time, to take a break or to relax?
7.Describe your favorite teacher and why he or she is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
8.Describe the household chore that you dislike the most and explain why you dislike it.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
9.Describe your favorite animal or pet, and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
10.Describe your favorite icon or famous person, and why he or she is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
11.What is your favorite type of movie and why?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
12.Describe your favorite sport and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
13.Describe an event in the last ten years that you think changed the world in an important way, and explain how you think it changed the world.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
14.Describe your favorite food and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
15.Describe the kind of person you think would be an ideal neighbor and explain why you think so.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
16.Describe your favorite movie and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
17.What do you think will be the most important issue facing humanity in the next 20 years?  Why do you think so?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
18.Describe your favorite television program and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
19.Given one-month time to do whatever you like to do, what would you like to do?
20.What was your most cherished moment at school?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
21.Which of your parents do you think you most resemble?  Why?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
22.Which country/city would you like to visit?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
23.What was the toughest challenge you have faced?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
24.Describe your favorite season of the year and explain why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
25.If you could know your future, what would you like to know?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
26.If you could have one wish, what would you wish for and why?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
27.What would you send to an international exhibition? Your object should represent your country.
28.What has been your strangest dream.  Describe the details and why you think it was strange, and what you think it might mean.
29.What do you miss when you are away from your home?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
30.Some people prefer to wake up early in the morning, while others prefer to sleep late.  Which do you prefer and why?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
31.Describe one thing you regret not doing in your life and explain why you regret not doing it. Please include specific details and examples in your response.
32.Describe a major health problem that affects humans globally and explain why the disease or illness is so problematic.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
33.Describe a goal you have for your future and explain why this goal is important to you.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
34.Describe the person you usually go to when asking for advice and explain why you go to that person.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
35.Describe a learning experience which you feel was particularly valuable and explain why you found it valuable.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
36.Some students prefer university in the home region while others prefer studying abroad. What would you prefer?
37.Some only go to the movies if they know about the film, whereas others like to go to get surprised and watch movies they know nothing about. What do you prefer and why?
38.What are important considerations in choosing a job/career in your opinion?  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
39.Describe a favorite spot to visit in your neighborhood (a park, shopping mall, museum, etc.), and explain why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
40.Describe the most interesting place you have visited and explain why you found it interesting. Please include specific details and examples in your response.
41.Describe your family and the differences and similarities between the people in it.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
42.Some prefer traveling independently, whereas others prefer traveling in a pre-arranged package tour. Which do you prefer and why?
43.Which mode of transport (car, bus, train, boat, airplane, hiking, bicycle, etc.) do you prefer when traveling, and why?
44.Describe a particularly memorable or unusual experience you have had while traveling, and why it was memorable or unusual.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
45.Who is your role model?  Describe this person and why he or she is your role model.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
46.Describe your ideal job and explain why you like it.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
47.Describe your favorite item of clothing and why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
48.Describe your most difficult subject in school and explain why you think it is your most difficult.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.
49.Describe your favorite novel or story and explain why it is your favorite.  Please include specific details and examples in your response.

Caveat: Spring’s Bouquet

Spring is coming into effect.  There are buds and small white flowers on some of the trees, and the days are warmer.  It's rained a few times.

One thing I notice are the smells: organic smells of flowers, growing things.  There's an irony to the fact that one thing that happens in the Spring is that things begin to rot again, after a long winter when they lie frozen and undecaying:  piles of leaves and neglected bits of organic matter.  Once again, there are flies around the neatly bundled plastic bags of garbage that accumulate behind the buildings.

The bitter cold of winter often made me think of Minnesota, although it rarely would get as cold here as it does there, and there is much less precipitation here in the winter, too.  But the cold winds out of the north, and the little patches of leftover snow in shady spots that would persist for several weeks.

With the arrival of Spring and Spring's smells, however, Korea seems more "east coasty" in character.  In terms of the types and variety of plants, perhaps.  And the particular smells?  I don't know which flowers broadcast which smells into the air, but it just seems to have a more east-coast feel to it.

Caveat: Marriage

I went to my coworker Ryan’s wedding today.  Ryan is the youngest teacher I work with (he’s in his early 20’s), but his English is pretty good (he has a bachelor’s degree he earned in Brisbane, Australia), and he’s a very gentle-spirited person – I actually look up to him in a weird sort of way, as an example of how to keep a spirit of equinamity and calmness in the face of the small annoyances and frustrations of work.
So I went to the wedding, partly out of curiosity about what a Korean wedding would be like.  Ryan is pretty hardcore Christian, and the syncretism between Korean traditions and evangelical Christianity was interesting.  Some things surprised me:  it was in no way a solemn feeling ceremony – this was partly because, in contrast to any wedding I’ve attended in the U.S. or Mexico, the audience never really got completely quiet – there was a persistent buzz of chatter, talking, chatting, teenagers checking their cell phones for text messages, etc.   And no one seemed bothered by this.  I realized this may have implications for my low-grade annoyance with the way kids seem inattentive in my classes, and that it may be something more culturally complex than just teenage disrespect.
Here’s a picture of the two clans, at the end of the ceremony, with Ryan and his bride in the middle, and their mothers in traditional Korean dress, and some others, and a little ring-bearer (?) also in traditional dress.
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It was fairly short.  Toward the end, a group of four students from our academy did a karaoke of a Korean song, that was very touching.  After the ceremony, I saw Danny and Diana, the former owners of the hagwon, and at the reception buffet we chatted a bit about their imminent move to the U.S., where Danny will be getting his doctorate in Christian education (or something like that).
They then drove me back to Jeongbalsan (i.e. my apt) which was a nice opportunity to talk some more about the school – I could tell they were at least somewhat curious about what changes had occurred, and how I was getting on.  I’ve always appreciated their genuine kindness, even if sometimes I felt they perhaps weren’t the hugest supporters of me, from a professional standpoint.
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Caveat: ₩11100

I have become somewhat happy with my ability to understand spoken currency amounts in Korean.  When shopping at the quickie mart, I will deliberately avoid looking at the cash register when my purchases are rung up, so that I can test my ability to understand the clerk's recital of the amount due.  I've gotten pretty good at it, and most of the time, I can even give the correct amount of change if I have it and I'm trying to get rid of coins – which I often am.

But tonight's purchase amount threw me for a loop:  ₩11100.   The problem is that when you have one of something in Korean, you don't give the number – just the "counter" or the digit placeholder.   And there's a digit placeholder for each column in a long number, just like we have in English – hundred, thousand, million – but we're much less committed to using them.  So Korean has a ten-thousand placeholder (만 =man), a thousand placeholder (천 =cheon), and a hundred placeholder (벡 =baeg), and then the word for won (원 =weon).  So this price of ₩11100 (about 13 bucks) was 만천벡원 (man-cheon-baeg-weon) and there were no "digits" recited.

I was utterly nonplussed for a second.  It would be as if, in English, we said for, say, $1,001,100, "million thousand hundred dollars."

Caveat: Inconvenience is the mother of invention

Thus writes my student Ella, in a brilliant little essay on inventions.  She's perhaps the most linguistically talented of my students – not necessarily the most academically inclined, but she has what we sometimes call an "ear" for language – she is an excellent mimic of sounds, and has a great aural memory.  We'd learned the phrase "necessity is the mother of invention" in class, and she adopted it and made it her own aphorism very cleverly, and with a native-speaker's grace.  I was impressed – such linguistic insightfulness and creativity is pretty rare.

Caveat: 오예스!

The above, transliterated, is "o-ye-seu."  What do you think it means?  It means "Oh Yes."  It's the name of a "Chocolate Coating Cake" which I was handed at work today – something in the same phylum as twinkies or hostess cupcakes, maybe.   Unusually for Konglish, there is no supporting English alphabet version, to give the Konglish away – so I had to think about it for a little bit to realize what was going on – all there is is the lovely "오예스" in a stylish, blue, cursive hangeul.

Then, the motto on the package says:  "You know that sweet things make smile.  We love to see you smile with your people.  So just taste this cake."

Oh, yes!

I emailed a long complicated correspondence to my accountant just now.  Hopefully we'll get this tax mess sorted out, until another year.  At the rate I'm going, maybe I'll just keep dropping my income to the point I don't have to worry about taxes anymore.

Caveat: Citizen Dog

I mentioned a Thai movie called Citizen Dog a while back.  The other day I found it online and downloaded it (it took a while, of course – downloading movies is slow business, even with a DSL connection), and this evening, amid my general gloominess, I watched it.  It was a delightful exercise in almost pure garciamarqezesque magic realism.  And isn't that a cool word I just made up: garciamarquezesque?

One of my favorite moments is when the narrator says:  "Now Kong is dead.  But he is still here because he really likes riding his motorcycle."  Kong is the character who is killed by the rain of motorcycle helmets.

Caveat: 경고

The meaning of  경고 (gyeonggo) according to the dictionary is "warning" or "beware," which is to say, "caveat."

Isn't that convenient?

After the events of last week, between the frustrations at work and the tax problem, I had a kind of depressing weekend, to be honest.  And I didn't get a lot done, either.  Not anything I needed to do.

Caveat: Taxes?

I just had forwarded to me (from my dad) a tax bill from the State of Minnesota for $666.  Aside from the incredibly (in-)auspicious dollar amount that I owe them, I am highly disturbed because of the fact that I thought I had resolved my 2006 tax issues with my accountant almost 6 months ago – what the heck is going on?

I will undoubtedly pay it.  But this is causing me some discomfort with my accountant, as he'd told me it was all automated payments – somehow I'd assumed the federal refund and state tax bills had cancelled out (approximately) and that the difference had been absorbed in the bill I receieved from him last October. My question is, if I still owe Minnesota this amount, where did my federal refund go? 

To summarize: argh.

Caveat: This Is A Blog

I found out today that at least one person at RingGuAPoReomEoHagWon has been reading my blog, or has seen it, anyway.  If I understood correctly.

I have always been aware that writing my thoughts and experiences in this most public of places, the internet, could lead to this – that is why I have often kept things much more "bland" and generic than some of my audience (as small as it is) might expect.  However, the actual knowledge is still something I have to adjust to, a bit.  And it leaves me feeling compelled to reiterate, in more explicit terms, what this "blog" is supposed to be.

Mostly, this is just a sort of extended letter to my friends and family – at least, so far, that's what it's been. A way to avoid writing the same thing in 5 or 10 different emails each week.  Secondly, it's a sort of discipline – a way to keep myself writing, if only a little bit.

It is most definitely NOT an effort at journalism (in which I have little interest), nor will I even guarantee truthfulness – I have dabbled in poetry and fiction a great deal over the years, and I reserve both novelistic and poetic license with respect to my writing here, even if I have, to date, rarely exercised it. 

Back when I first started writing this, in 2004, I was actually quite careful to fictionalize e.g. my employer, but since then I've been much less careful, and I wonder if perhaps that has been a mistake.  But on the whole, I don't actually write that often about work or about my employers – still, I should try to make clear that if I say something negative about my job, mostly I'm discussing my personal experiences and feelings.

Caveat: Doom and Gloom

I guess you could say I had a depressing day at work. Never any clear, targeted, constructive criticism – just vague allusions to shifting priorities and changed class assignments.  Am I just overreacting, being insecure?  I don't know.  But I left work today feeling strongly that under no circumstances would I renew my contract – and it seems pretty clear to me today that they had no plans to seek such, either.

What's going on?  I wish I could say. I don't know. The only behavior-specific criticism I received today was that I had failed to avail myself of the computer-based instructional materials created for the Passage Memorization curricula. I had test-driven it in January, and dismissed it as cumbersome and uninspiring to students.

I hadn't realized the administration had had their hearts set on it – they certainly didn't seem to have invested in the appropriate material technology to support it.   Had I been "ordered" to use it?  I definitely remember a "strong suggestion," but I also recall making a strongly argued case against continuing with it, which was received with mild-mannered acceptance – which I read as a deferral to my opinion.  Now I learn that they were displeased that I'd rejected their request.

Caveat: Obamistic Pursuits

Ever since the popularization of the Rev. Wright "problem" (and note that it is merely a "popularization," not a revelation, as Wright's views have been public and even well-documented, all along), I have been having some concerns about the Obama campaign – in how it's handled the "scandal," in the statements he's made (especially his speech last Tuesday, which I, uniquely among people of my political stripe, found weak-kneed and slightly vacuous), and in general, in a sort of indeterminate discomfort I've had with the quality and level of the "pro-Obama" discourse.   But I couldn't put my finger on what was bothering me, exactly.

And today, surfing the news and blog sites, I finally found a fabulously articulate and cogent summary of all my concerns about this issue, in the form a column by a sports commentator for the Kansas City Star, Jason Whitlock.  Go figure.  Thanks, Jason.  And no thanks to all you other political bloggers and opinion-makers out there.

Yet on the flip side, my personal favorite guy in the race, Bill Richardson, turned around and endorsed Obama later the same week.  I wonder if some kind of secret deal is in the offing – did Obama promise Richardson the number two spot, if he wins the nomination?  And, is that based, in part, on Hillary's implied promise of the number two to Mr Obama if she gets it?  What's certain is that although I find a Clinton-Obama ticket plausible, an Obama-Clinton ticket is patently impossible (because Hillary doesn't want to go from First Lady to VP – that's like going from supporting actress to… supporting actress).

And frankly, an Obama-Richardson ticket would be formidable, as Obama's weakest demographic, latinos, would be perfectly complemented by Richardson's obvious super-strength in exactly that area – Richardson's chilangosity is rarely commented upon, but it's a well-known fact among the Mexican-American population that despite his American birth, he grew up in Mexico City. Additionally, Obama, perceived as weak on both foreign policy and executive-branch experience, would be tucking a former ambassador to the U.N. and current popular state governor into his belt.  Such a ticket would definitely remove any lingering doubts I had about Obama. So… we shall see.

Caveat: “그놈은 멋있었다”

"그놈은 멋있었다" is the title of a 2004 movie that I recently downloaded and watched.  Roughly, the name geunomeun meoshiteotda translates as "He was cool" or "That guy was cool."  It was a teen comedy-romance.

But I enjoyed it, as I spend most of my working days immersed in the world of Korean teenagerdom, and thus, although the movie is hyperbolic and romantic fantasy, it is also, at another level, a somewhat realistic portrayal of contemporary Korean teen culture. So, despite its genre limitations, I recommend it.  It's available on youtube in about 14 segments, with subtitles, if you can't find it in your video store or are unable to find a good subtitled download of it (I found mine on silentregrets.com [update: silentregrets no longer exists – presumeably shut down by the copyright police])

I learned a wonderful and useful phrase from the movie:  정말?  jeongmal = "really?"

The lead actress in this movie, 정다빈 (Jeong Da-Bin – a screen name), committed suicide in 2007, suffering from depression.  A quote associated with her is: "I'm complicated and I feel like I'm going to die…I have lost my identity."

Caveat: Oh Hay Lite

LOLCat is a sort of name for that weird dialect of internetchatese that is only semiliterate, is full of acronyms (such as LOL = laughing out loud) and contains lots of both deliberate and accidental "cute" misspellings.  And, just as someone, somewhere, is translating the Bible into Klingon, so it is the case, I have discovered, that someone is working hard to translate that same document into LOLCat.

Here are the first three verses of John:

1 In teh beginz is teh cat macro, and teh cat macro sez "Oh hai Ceiling Cat" and teh cat macro iz teh Ceiling Cat.2 Teh cat macro an teh Ceiling Cat iz teh bests frenz in teh begins. 3 Him maeks alls teh cookies; no cookies iz maed wifout him.4 Him haz teh liefs, an becuz ov teh liefs teh doodz sez "Oh hay lite."5 Teh lite iz pwns teh darks, but teh darks iz liek "Wtf."

More internet wackiness:  Check out Happy Tree Friends – but don't bring your children, these things are quite violent.

Caveat: The Mexican Space Program

Both chambers of the Mexican congress have approved initial versions of a law which will create, for the second time in history, a Mexican space program, under the title Agencia Espacial Mexicana (with the unintuitive acronym AEXA – probably chosen more because it looks cool than because it makes any sense at all).  I say "second time in history" because few people realize that the Mexicans actually had a space program in the mid-sixties, including rocket launches and collaboration with work by NASA during the same period, that was actually at least mildly significant. 

I don't know why I find this fascinating.  Part of the reason is that, as part of a running joke about "good names for rock bands" with some friends many years ago, one of the most popular ideas for a name for a rock band was "The Mexican Space Program" – perhaps because it goes against cultural stereotypes, and inevitably conjures images of some vato-ized low-rider space shuttle or maybe a burro in a space suit and a meal of freeze-dried tacos.

But I've also been fascinated because Mexico, as the one of the most "developed" of the developing-world nations, and as a significantly sized nation in terms of GDP and population, deserves one, and it has been one of the few mid-wealth nations in the world not to have one in recent times (compare Brazil or India – or Korea, for that matter – all of which have space programs, if not terribly ambitious ones).

Other thoughts…

Sometimes I feel as if I'm getting to be a first-hand witness of a major generational shift here in Korea.  Without exception, my students come from basically middle-class, suburban families cast in a "1950's America" mold:  father works, mom stays home, 2.1 children.

Yet as I interview my students and ask them about their interests and ambitions, I get some startling answers:  boys who want to be sushi chefs, graphic artists and lounge singers rather than the typical businessmen or engineers, and girls who energetically discuss their plans to be police officers, chemical engineers, politicians, dentists and even one who told me confidently that she intended to be a world-traveling "free spirit" (not quite sure where she picked up that phrase, though I suspect I must have given it to them at some point). 

The young of any generation exhibit more ambition than they ever live up to, of course.  That's human nature.  But I find it fascinating that I am getting to participate in my very tiny way in what will be the first generation of Koreans who are growing up in a world where men and women are no longer so constrained to traditional roles, and where anything if possible, at least in their dreams.

Caveat: 미국인?

I was surprised to overhear someone I passed on the street uttering 미국인 (migugin – American) in reference to me.  How can they tell? Do people just assume I'm an American? There are many foreigners in Ilsan, but I have come to believe Americans are not the most common sort: there are Canadians, Brits, Ozzies and Kiwis, Indians, Vietnamese, and others.  So does 미국인 stand for any kind of westerner?  It very specifically means "U.S.A.-person."

In other news… RingGuAPoReomEoHagWon's administrators are showing their inexperience. The curriculum is adrift, as complaints from parents, frustrations with student satisfaction, etc., drive them to experiment and change things around.  It's quite frustrating to have to be on the "receiving end" of this – it seems like not a week goes by when there isn't some change in what text I should use, or what method I should use, or even what group I should teach or what I should focus on.  There is still a consensus that they seem to want to use me for the "speaking skills" teacher (as opposed to e.g. writing, reading, listening skills).

But now I'm looking at this book they want me to use that seems only marginally connected with actual communicative speaking ability, and I just don't know how to explain any more clearly than I already have that if we use this book, we won't be improving speaking skills – it's all about grammar, parts of speech, periphrastic verbs and vocabulary building.  Speaking skills grow only through practice, practice, practice. You can know all the grammar in the world, but you won't speak well without that.

Caveat: Spokesoegugin

The last two days, we've been having a sort of parent-teacher conference thing, in the hours before school (1-4 roughly).  So, extra hours, as a consequence.  And, of course, anytime the parents wanted to talk to me, it ends up having to be translated.  Yesterday, only one parent wanted to talk to me, and I felt like I was just a token Foreign Teacher to sit there and look useful.  Today, Keith was my translator, and I actually talked with quite a few mothers – it's all mothers, as the Korean family is still much more traditional than in North America.

It was entertaining to try to guess who was whose mother – I didn't always get it right.  But now I feel very tired.

Caveat: … furiously

I continue to struggle with my alleged boringness. It's a common enough criticism that I cannot dismiss it. How do I become a less boring teacher? A less boring person. There were many things I didn't want to become, in life… and boring was one of them.

Mientras tanto, some (boring) quotes:

"We don't want to be swayed by superficial eloquence, by emotion and so on." – Noam Chomsky

"It can only be the thought of verdure to come, which prompts us in the autumn to buy these dormant white lumps of vegetable matter covered by a brown papery skin, and lovingly to plant them and care for them. It is a marvel to me that under this cover they are labouring unseen at such a rate within to give us the sudden awesome beauty of spring flowering bulbs. While winter reigns the earth reposes but these colourless green ideas sleep furiously." – C.M. Street

Caveat: Price-placebo effect

Recent publications by psychologists and/or economists have been discussing amazing neurological evidence to support what's called the price-placebo effect: that we actually derive more REAL efficacy from things we pay more for.  More pleasure from higher-priced wine, more boost from higher-priced energy drinks, etc. And it's been raised recently in the sordid context of the Spitzer scandal.

But I started thinking:  in light of this, I wonder whether it's really in our national interest to work hard to lower the cost of prescription drugs and medical care? Perhaps the high price of drugs and medical care in America is directly linked to their efficacy?

Caveat: SpongeBob Lumberjack

I just learned that Stephen Hillenburg, the creator of SpongeBob Squarepants, is an alum of Humboldt State University – which, broadly speaking, is a sort of "first university" for me – though only by the broadest definition am I an actual alum, I do have credits from there, and I grew up practically on campus, as a child.  Somehow it seems rather explanatory, that SpongeBob has roots – in a sense – in Humboldt.

Caveat: I Love Alligator

This was something a student told me today: "I love alligator."

"Alligator" is a toy that I bought – Grace had bought one before, and I thought it was such a great idea, so I got my own. For 4 dollars, I got a plastic alligator: you open the mouth, and press down on his teeth one-by-one, and some random tooth causes the beast's mouth to close.  Each time, the specific tooth that causes the mouth to close is a different one.  It's useful in moments when you need to choose a "who goes first" person in class, for giving speeches or reciting memorizations or whatever – you pass the alligator around and the person whose finger gets chomped is the one who has to speak. 

I should post a picture of it. Maybe I'll take one tomorrow.

Caveat: Investing Adventures

Well, the recent situation with the stockmarket has made me grateful that I decided to live off my savings last year – last summer I drew down my equities positions substantially, and, in a move that was pure luck, parked a chunk of what was left in gold (thinking in terms of risk-reduction since I was looking ahead to such a huge drop in income).  This turns out to have been exactly the right time to do that.  The rest is in cash, and with the start of January, I also liquidated all of Jeffrey's trust fund and transferred the cash to him for his 21st birthday.

The net result is that the recent massive downturn of the stockmarkets worldwide has hit me far less than it would have last year at this time.  I still have unpleasant positions in things like Oracle, Starbucks, Microsoft, Nissan… not to mention the ugly scene involving my money in index funds based markets in Japan, India, Russia and Chile, where the dollar isn't depreciating fast enough to make the losses in those markets look any less painful.  But… it's all paper losses, and the positions are all quite modest.

I certainly will not  make claim to any great foresight – it was pure luck – but on paper, my drawdown over the last 6 months looks like the work of an investing genius.  I'm feeling very self-satisfied about it.  And, not only that, but just by virtue of the fact that I'm spending my U.S. cash while I save my Korean salary means that I've been in effect transferring my cash reserves from dollars (sinking) into Korean won (stable) – although the caveat there is that in the last month or two the won and dollar have been eerily in sync, unlike any other major world currencies, which are all generally appreciating against the dollar.

Of course, there's going to be some overhead in moving this Korean cash back into the U.S. at the end of my stay here – but lately , having reached the halfway mark of my contract – I've been considering whether I intend to stay another year or move on to something else.   On the one hand, I'm frustrated with my failure to have found any good friends here, and disappointed with the limits on time off with which to travel.  On the other hand, I've really enjoyed the teaching (despite the various moments of annoyance) and I still feel a desire to get more inside the language and culture, which is of course a very slow project, even slower because of my bouts with lack-of-motivation. 

Caveat: 김치볶음밥

One typical Korean food that I have often enjoyed here is 김치볶음밥 (kimchibokkeumbap = Kimchi fried rice).  Well, today, I got adventurous, and actually made my own.  I chopped up some onion and browned it in some oil with garlic powder, added chopped up kimchi and a can of tunafish (and some extra hot pepper paste), and got this nice and hot.  I added my pre-cooked rice and let this all brown for a while, broke in two eggs and turned down the heat.  10 minutes later, I stirred it all up, turning up a nice crusty bottom and hacking up the fried eggs into it.  Delicious.  Probably I like it because it's so clearly unhealthy.

Caveat: Kids Bouncing Off Walls

Yes.  Literally, they were bouncing off the walls.  Some walls were damaged.  Some kids were damaged.  The younger ones in all classes were wackier than troop of crack-smoking monkeys today.  I think it had to do with the warm weather – at least 15C, breezy and springy.  I'm not sure how much English they learned today – I focused on synonyms of "crazy."

Sophia tried to sell me some "magic shampoo" that would make me "look younger" – I'm wondering if this was some kind of hint regarding my appearance.  She said it was $400 per bottle, but said it would also cause me to grow a handsome beard instantly.  I told her it sounded kind of dangerous, and asked what sort of chemicals were in it.  She didn't know about the chemicals, but said it was perfectly safe.  I decided not to make an immediate purchase.

Caveat: 한국말을 공부 안해요

I played hooky from my Korean Language school yesterday again – third weekend in a row.  I think this means I have dropped the course, at least for now.  I've been having a difficult time motivating to get into the south end of the city to the hagwon on a timely basis on Saturday mornings.  I have a lead on a possible Korean language program that might offer some kind of classes more locally here in Ilsan, which I may try pursuing.  Meanwhile, I try to keep studying my lists of vocabulary.

On Friday night, I had my first experience with a dishonest business transaction since coming to Korea.  I took a taxi home, because I intended to overshoot my apartment building and run some errands at the Homever store.  The taxi ride was 2700 won, and I gave the driver a 10000 won bill.  I got three bills and some coins back, and because it was dark, I assumed I was getting back two 1000's and a 5000.  But when I opened my wallet later, I had three 1000's.  So, the cab driver shortchanged me.  I hate it when stuff like that happens.  I dwell on my stupidity on not catching it, all that.  The fact is, it was about 5 bucks, I shouldn't worry about it.  It's just annoying.

I spent part of yesterday evening poking around YouTube videos, looking up and listening to popular Korean girl-pop groups like Wonder Girls and 소녀시대 (so-nyeo-shi-dae: "Girls Generation").   These names have come up repeatedly in my classes when I ask topical questions such as "What is your favorite music?" and I was curious as to what the music was like.   I also ended up checking out some Korean hip-hop (they write it phonetically:  "힙합") and rap.  And it caused me to ponder:  if Korean pop genre is called KPOP, does that mean Korean rap genre is KRAP? 

Caveat: Trolleyology

A brand new word, with two widely variant meanings.

On the one hand, Word Spy (a website for "new" words) describes trolleyology as the practice of a sort of amateur anthropology in which people judge other people based on the contents of their shopping trolleys (shopping carts), especially to provide a means of evaluating potential love interests.

On the other hand, I have seen a reference in The Economist magazine (Feb 23rd, 2008), as well as googled sites such as ZhurnalyWiki or the mckimmy ethics blog where trolleyology is defined as the study of a collection of hypothetical ethics problems au courant in philosophy writing, in which people have to make decisions about switching the routes of runaway trolleys (streetcars) based on variant numbers of lives being at risk.  I have run across this practice in my readings in philosophy before, but had never seen it called trolleyology.

It's a good word:  so young, yet already deliciously ambiguous!  I can already visualize a comedic skit involving people making ethics decisions involving runnaway shopping carts and potential love interests at risk, where the contents of the carts informs the decisions made.  Lends a whole new potential meaning to the idea of a "streetcar named desire."

And for some reason I have this vivid image of a trolebus (Spanish for trolley car) in a poem by the neosurrealist poet Miguel Labordeta, but I can't recall the name of the poem or find it using google.  But it was a poem definitely linked to mortality and love.  So in the spirit of this, I'll quote another poem by Labordeta, "La voz del poeta": 

  Acariciándolo todo, destruyéndolo todo,
  hundiendo su cabeza de espada en el pasmo del Ser
  sabiendo de antemano que nada es la respuesta.
  En lo alto del Faro.
  La voz del poeta.
  Incansable holocausto.

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