Caveat: Staff Volleyball

We had staff volleyball yesterday afternoon. It typically happens on Wednesday afternoons, if it’s going to happen. This time, instead of it being “intramural,” Hongnong Elementary (my school) was playing against Beopseong Elementary (the next school down the road), and so we all piled into various vehicles at around 3 pm and drove over to Beopseong. I thought I would have to play. But they were taking the competition with the other school too seriously, and they had already seen that I wasn’t really very good at volleyball, so, as the game against the other school progressed, it became evident that I wouldn’t be invited to play. I just sat and watched.

First, there were a couple women’s games (female staff vs female staff), and Hongnong won those games. My fellow foreign teacher (who I got to know because she went through orientation training with me at Gwangju last month) played for her school’s team, and really did quite well (better than I have done so far, anyway).

Then it was time for the men’s games. They played three games, and after Beopseong won 2, that meant there was a tie between the schools, 2 games to 2, because Hongnong had won the women’s and Beopseong had won the men’s.

The final game was quite suspenseful, and, honestly, some of the most entertaining volleyball I’ve ever watched. I didn’t resent not being allowed to play – I probably would have messed up. The last game came down to 20 points vs 20 points. There were a lot of amazing volleys, too. And finally, Hongnong won, 22 to 20. The pictures aren’t that good, but here are a few.

First, the women’s game – you can see my colleague Donna, who teaches at Beopseong, looking victorious after a winning a point.

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This is the last men’s game, during a long volley after the game was tied 20-20. That’s our vice-principal looking appropriately dynamic in the white shirt in the foreground.

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This is a picture of the Beopseong campus.

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[this is a “back-post” added 2010-05-29]

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Caveat: 지난주말 일요일에 사진 많이 찍었어요

Here are some more pictures from last weekend’s hike over to Gamami.
First, of me – the town in the valley behind me is Happy, Harmonious Hongnong.
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Next, walking down the highway near Gamami.
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A little before that, looking down from the mountain, southward, over the Beopseong inlet.
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Last, the (in-)famous nuclear power plant – one of the largest nuclear power production facilities in the world, from what I understand. “Springfield, Korea!”
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Caveat: More Alligators For All

Yesterday with some of the afterschool kids (I don’t have an afterschool class on Thursday, but my co-teacher and fellow foreign teacher Casi have one) were playing with the green plastic alligators.  They were having a lot of fun.  Here is a picture.
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Here is a picture of one of my first-graders, Haneul, who insisted I needed to take a picture of her.
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Today is Buddha’s Birthday, a national holiday.  Casi and I walked over to that Baekje Buddhism monument this morning (appropriate, right?).   Here is a picture of an unexpectedly ascetic-looking Buddha that we saw there – see his ribs, showing?
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Now I’m in Gwangju, where I found a place with FAST free internet wi-fi.  I’m fixing and updating my blog.

Caveat: 가마미

Today, I went with my friend Peter (who’s finished his contract at hagwon in Ilsan and who is visiting me for a few days) on a long, long hike over to Gamami beach (가마미), which is the coastal part of Hongnong Town. It was a great hike. Here are a few pictures.

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[This is a “back-post” added 2010-05-21]

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Caveat: Hantucky

I have decided to call my new home Hantucky – a combination of “Han” meaning “Korea,” and the increasingly productive place-name suffix “-tucky,” meaning “some place kind of like Kentucky” (cf. the popular appellation Fontucky, for Fontana, California).

Here is another picture of my school, looking northwest toward the mountain behind it. Behind that, you will find the infamous nuclear power plant, and the Yellow Sea. I want to go hiking over that mountain, soon.

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Caveat: 홍농이나 목포

Today, I went out to Hongnong to hang out with my FFT (“fellow foreign teacher”) and experienced severe apartment envy.  Not only do I envy the fact that she lives within walking distance of work, but also her apartment is just as big as mine and much cleaner and brighter (more and better windows) than mine.  Ah well… such random inequities are inevitable, right?  I will try to focus on the positives of my apartment in Yeonggwang.  It’s more centrally located and convenient to a marketplace and bus station.  And it doesn’t have Jehovah’s Witnesses lurking about on Saturday mornings – we shooed some off at her place this morning.
Anyway… I wanted to walk up the mountain west of Hongnong, but she wasn’t interested.  I’ll do that on my own, some other time, I guess.
Here is a picture of Hongnong Middle School, seen from the main drag.  Note the rural character of the community.  Heh.

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Meanwhile, here are some pictures of my long walk around Mokpo yesterday.

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[This is a “back-post” added 2010-05-09]

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Caveat: The Apartment

My new apartment is not called an “apartment” by Koreans. The term “apateu” is reserved for the cookie-cutter apartments found in high-rises. Several of my coworkers have told me that I’m living in a “house.”  But, by the standards of American English, it’s still an apartment.

It’s the top, third floor of a commericial building. Maybe it could be called a “flat.” Or, very charitably, a penthouse. Underneath me is a hairdresser’s shop and a tteok store (tteok is Korean rice-cake, in at least 10,000 varieties). The apartment was frighteningly filthy when I got into it on Monday – I was afraid to sleep on the bedding provided, and the floors had enough dust that walking on them barefoot was a bit like a stroll on the beach.

I’ve been cleaning industriously. And I’ve been attempting to decorate. It’s much better, now. And, on the good side, by Korean standards, this apartment is huge. Gigantnormous. And it has access to a rooftop “balcony” area that I could see becoming a nice spot to hang out on summer evenings – as long as I do some cleaning and invest in some kind of patio furniture.

Here are some pictures. Note that the wood-looking floors are just the ubiquitous Korean “wood-flavored linoleum” – they look much better in the pictures than up close and personal.

First, my livingroom, with TV and a few weak efforts at decorating – the textiles strategically placed to cover holes or blemishes on the wall.

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The view from the rooftop area, looking north, I think… I haven’t got my directions completely down yet, in my neighborhood.

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The kitchen area.

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The entry area.

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The bedroom. I bought some new bedding, and have been sleeping on the nice firm mattress, but I can confidently say that I will migrate to the floor, Korean style – especially once the weather gets hot and sticky.

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The “extra” room – maybe it will be my office/studio?

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I’ve lived in worse places. Some cleaning and decorating will make it fine.  nd… it’s the most space I’ve had since … wow, since I was married, maybe. Too bad all my junk is in a storage unit in Minnesota – if it where here, I could unpack it all and sit and admire it.

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Caveat: 꿈을 가꾸는 홍농 어린이

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That’s me standing and looking a little bit goofy in front of one of the entrances to my new school. The sign over the entryway reads “꿈을 가꾸는 홍농 어린이” (kkumeul gakkuneun hongnong eorini = “Hongnong children [are] cultivating [their] dreams”).

I think one of the things that impresses me about Korean society is that the children seem so happy. Children everywhere in the world can seem happy, but in many of the places I’ve spent time, the children seem, on average, a lot less happy than in Korea:  e.g. parts of Mexico, south Minneapolis, L.A.  Is my memory or perception distorted? I’m not sure. It’s not a scientific sample, it’s just my gut-level impression.

Anyway… a society with happy children can’t be doing too badly, I think.

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Caveat: Really actually finally starting?

The training is over. Tomorrow I will meet my “co-teacher” and we will go to Hongnong (my new town), where I will meet my school and get to see and settle into my apartment, hopefully.

I’m nervous and excited. It’s been a long 8 months, since I was employed. It’s been largely voluntary, but I’m looking forward to being “settled” again, finally.

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Caveat: 광주 0 : 2 성남

The training program took us to a soccer game yesterday. It was between Gwangju and Seongnam.   The stadium was almost empty – I think our large group of foreigners was about a quarter of the audience.  This one guy, Dave, proposed a bet on the outcome.  I studied the two teams’ rosters, and said, OK, I think Seongnam will win.  And I was right – Seongnam won, 2 to 0.  Was it pure luck?  What was my betting strategy?

I just bet on the team that had foreigners’ names on the roster. My thinking? If the team can afford to put some foreigners on its roster (an expensive proposition, apparently), then they must be serious about winning, and are probably near the top of the league, since very few foreigners play soccer in Korea (baseball and basketball are different, where most teams have several foreigners at least). I suppose it still could have been luck, but Gwangju was pretty clearly out-classed in the game – the Seongnam team (foreign and Korean players equally) was faster, nimbler, and seemed generally better prepared.

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Caveat: Thick on the ground

Here, ancestors are thick on the ground. There in my home country, it’s not like that. Ghosts are far and few between. Flowers on the forest floor, clustering and waiting for sunlight – that’s how ancestors are. Sometimes you see a lot, sometimes, not. Mostly, you never notice them. But they’re thick, here. Thick on the ground.

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Caveat: Field Trip

This large group of “newbie” EFL teachers in the training here were taken on a field trip yesterday. Kind of like a one-day tour of some parts of Jeollanam province. It was cool. I took a lot of pictures. But here are two that actually show me – which are rare. I’ll maybe post some of the “scenery” pictures later.

This first picture is of me with some school girls that were at the Nagan Folk Village – a sort of Korean Historical theme park (tastefully done). Kids in Korea will run up to foreigners – especially large groups of foreigners obviously on tour, and say things like “Hello!” “How are you?” Basically, they want to practice English, and be friendly.  These girls were impressed because I’d managed 3 or 4 phrases of passable Korean, and so I suddenly became a rock star.

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This picture is me in front of a small compound gate at a temple complex at Jogyesan National Park.

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Caveat: Trees. Trees.

The last time I talked with my mother, she shared an aphorism with me that’s been rolling around in my brain: “Before enlightenment, there are trees. After enlightenment, there are trees.” This is probably a paraphrase of something aptly Buddhistic, but I like the simplicity of it.

I was thinking of it, and looking at trees, yesterday, as I climbed up the path up the mountain behind my hotel here in Gwangju. There were many trees, in various stages of springing forth, from bare branches to luxuriant pale, glowing green, with lots of blossoms too. Some of the trees had little labels on them placed by the local park service that maintains the park, and so I set to trying to learn some of the Korean names of trees – assuming I could identify the tree in question based on my own somewhat stale knowledge from my classes in botany of 20 years ago.

It was a steep climb – good exercise to reach to top. The view out over Gwanju wasn’t spectacular: there were too many trees. But it was beautiful. And I had the space mostly to myself, since rain was threatening. It’s pretty rare to have park-trails to oneself, in Korea.

Here is a picture.

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Caveat: Orientation is disorienting

I am participating in a rather in-depth, week-long orientation and training program related to my new job. This is very disorienting – because I never had so much as an hour of orientation or training at any of my three previous jobs in Korea.

Some of the “cultural content” it is a bit redundant or boring, for someone who’s already been here a few years. But other bits are amazingly useful, and I find myself thinking, “gee, it would have been nice to have known that, say, 3 years ago.”

Overall, I think this will be good. Plus, the hotel where this is taking place is the poshest place I’ve stayed at in a long time – possibly since I had the Oracle 8i/9i certification at that resort in Pennsylvania in 2004.

Here’s a picture from my hotel balcony, looking west-southwest over Gwangju, as the sun is coming up behind the mountain behind me.

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Caveat: Zen pep rally of robots; Confucian riot of saints

I like to invent little metaphors that sound like good names for rock bands.

Yesterday, walking around Gwangju, I ran across some monuments to the Gwangju democracy movement of 1980. Although the movement failed against the dictatorship of that time, it was a significant turning point in the evolution of South Korean politics.

I began to reflect on South Korea’s “protest culture.” A lot of people view this as a sort of political immaturity (even, or especially, South Koreans themselves), but I have a rather different take on it. Firstly, this “protest culture” is as innate and important to modern South Korean democracy as, say, a town hall meeting is to New England democracy. Secondly, however, I think the fact that people in this country feel free to begin a rally or protest at the drop of a hat actually makes South Korean politics a bit more genuinely responsive and, well, “democratic” than a superficial systemic analysis might suggest.  So rather than seeing it as a blemish on the South Korean polity, I see the protest culture as a sort of enhancement, if an imperfect one.

But it seems odd, doesn’t it, that a country still so steeped in Confucian culture and values would adopt protests and riots as a (more or less) legitimate means of political expression?  Thus I stumbled on the idea of a “Confucian riot.” Which sounds cool, and is maybe less oxymoronic than you’d think. And I was contrasting the idea, in my mind, with Japan. Japan doesn’t have the same kind of protest culture as South Korea – not at all. Perhaps, lacking a recent historical experience with in-your-face dictatorship (i.e. at least not since WWII, and arguably even before that), Japan never developed the need.  Japan is a more consensual polity, whether truly democratic or not. More like a “pep rally” than a riot.  And so I stumbled on the contrasting idea of a “zen pep rally.”

I’m just thinking about these things. This is not a polished thesis or even intended to be a well-structured argument. More like a suggestion for two contrasting metaphors for two intimately related but profoundly distinct societies.

Here is a picture of a monument to the “518” movement (the Gwangju uprising of 1980), in front of the central high school. And some other monuments I noticed, not far away.

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Caveat: Where to stay in Kyushu

I feel like I got pretty lucky with my lodging in Kyushu, in the three places where I found good guesthouses: Kagoshima, Fukuoka, and Nagasaki.

The place to stay in Kagoshima is called Nakazono Ryokan. The place to stay in Nagasaki is called Fujiwara Ryokan – that place is awesome.

But the least expensive place I stayed was also the most convenient. In Fukuoka I stayed at Kaine Guesthouse. For 2500 yen a night (that’s 25~30 bucks, but that’s a steal by Japanese standards) I could sleep in a dorm with a futon fairly comfortably (except for the night there was the loud snoring guy). Very centrally located, I walked most anywhere I needed or wanted to go, but the subway can take you to the airport, trainstation, or Korean consulate easily.

The most important thing – the people are very friendly, and helpful. They were like a little support group as I agonized over not getting my visa number for so long.

Here’s a picture of me with staff member Mizue.

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And here’s a picture out front, with two other guys who worked there.

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Caveat: Old Temples and Blossoming Trees

I walked around a lot on Sunday, and took some pictures. Yesterday, it was raining pretty steadily, so I didn’t take as many pictures, and I didn’t walk around as much. Here are a few random pictures from Sunday; I found a temple called Sofukuji in the Northeastern part of the city, and some of the alleyways around it were very interesting too. The last picture is from west of downtown, near the old Fukuoka castle.

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Caveat: Mechanical Grace

I spent at least an hour yesterday watching a backhoe operator on a barge in the river.  He was dredging sand off the bottom of the river, and putting into a floating receptacle of some kind.   The backhoe was sitting on a floating platform, a simple barge, that also had a little hut and some anchoring devices of some kind that would sink down into the bed of the river.

It was interesting to me because he was operating the backhoe so gracefully. He would use the shovel end of the backhoe to push his barge around in the water, pushing off of another barge, off the side embankment of the river, and mostly pushing around on the bottom of the river. It was like watching a child navigating an inflatable swimming-pool-toy in a shallow pool.  Or maybe like watching a guy operating one of those gondolas in Venice. But it was all scaled up to involve this large machinery.

I wish I had had my video camera with me, to capture the movements, but here’s a picture of the machine, as he uses the shovel to push his barge backwards.

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Caveat: Best Crow Ever

I climbed up the ACROS building’s rooftop gardens, today. Here is a crow that lives near there.

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Still, I’ve heard nothing from my new job (which is to say, I’m still waiting for my visa).  Sigh.  I’m so bad at waiting. I’m not even enjoying this vacation. Vacations are only fun, when you’re escaping from something, perhaps. I’ve nothing to escape from, only something to wait for. So… no fun.

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Caveat: The Mall Builders

Fukuoka feels like a big city, after southern Kyushu, but it’s still pretty compact. It’s not like Seoul or Tokyo, and I walked around a major portion of the “downtown” yesterday, mostly the Tenjin and Hakata areas.

I ended up in a big, futuristic mall called Canal City. I’ll add a picture later. Funny how malls everywhere are the same. I always remember when I ended up in a mall in Temuco, Chile, and I was wandering around, thinking, “Wow, this is a mall in Temuco, Chile, but it feels just like any other mall.”

I once had a brainstorm about the nature of our global civilization – what characteristics of our cities and cultures would be most salient to an anthropologist in the far future, or from a different planet? And I decided that those hypothetical anthropologists would realize one of the unifying elements was the existence of malls.

That means their name for us would be: “The Mall Builders.” Which is a name that sounds suitably ominous and monumental for a global civilization reduced to dust by the ravages of time.

[Canal City Mall, Fukuoka]

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Caveat: Under some volcano

Here are some pictures from yesterday’s long walk, in no particular order.

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This is a long road, and the observation center that I was headed for.

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This is some flowers along the road.

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This is my shadow – a self-portrait.

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This is a blossoming tree in an industrial lot.

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This is a Mitsubishi van that had some plants growing inside of it.

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This is some re-bar that I saw, looking very sculpturesque.

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These are some boats at low tide.

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This is a cat in an alleyway in Kagoshima.

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Caveat: Being Still

I feel guilty not traveling around, not being a tourist.

But I have been telling myself, since I only have a few days left before my alleged visa appears and I become suddenly overwhelmingly employed in my new job in Korea, I should just relax. So today, I decided to just simply stop moving, and exist. I’ve found a ryokan that is relatively comfortable and convenient, and if not the cheapest it’s at least reasonable (well, by Japanese standards). And I like Kagoshima OK… it’s something different than Fukuoka.

I read for a while. I studied my Korean, and also put in about an hour trying re-memorize my forgotten kana. I experimented with copying the “Korean-written-in-kana” from my Korean-Japanese phrasebook. That was entertaining, and served two purposes. I drank coffee in a coffee joint in the Tenmonkan (Kagoshima`s downtown area). I ate cup ramen for dinner.

Here’s a picture of my the little alleyway where my ryokan is. And another picture I took during a long walk today (about 6 km?).

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One final note, quoted verbatim from a sign I saw just now:

Keep out of new flu. Please, wipe your hands on an alcoholic towel.

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Caveat: The Japanese Aesthetic

I confess that I love the Japanese aesthetic. It’s my favorite design philosophy, in architecture, in the way gardens and spaces are arranged, in the visual impact of two-dimensional images. I spent part of yesterday taking way too many pictures. I don’t normally take a lot of pictures, but I kept trying to capture “postcard” images. I’m not sure how I did, but some of the pictures below seem like I did not-too-badly.
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Caveat: Hello Kitty

When I went to the Sengan-en garden/estate (which was made many hundreds of years ago, and then expanded by one of the modernizing pre-Meiji Satsuma [sp?] lords in the 19th century, who built Japan’s first machine-based factory, first electric plant, and first telegraph, all here in Kagoshima).

On the grounds of the garden there was a shrine to cats. Some Japanese conqueror had taken some cats with him to Korea in the 16th century (where he no doubt worked on building that excellent rapport that exists to this day between Korea and Japan – this is a joke, OK?). The cats came back with him, having provided excellent luck and service (what sort of service, exactly?) during the war.

I took some pictures of the cat shrine, and promptly spent 25 bucks in the inevitable giftshop nearby. I will add the pictures when I get a chance and the appropriate bandwidth.

What`s weird is that in the hours after my visit to the cat shrine, I started running into cats. Cats in parking lots, cats in the forest climbing up the mountain. I took some pictures of these cats, too. I think it was a “hello cats” day. Which is only right, in the land of Hello Kitty.

Here’s some pics.

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Caveat: Sakurajima

Here are some pictures from my wandering around yesterday, to the volcano (Sakurajima) and around Kagoshima.

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The following is a “play volcano” that I saw in a school yard only a few kilometers from the real volcano. Funny.

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There is a lot of fine black ash or sand on everything. Here`s some piled on the sidewalk.

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[this is a back-post, completed 2010-03-31 18:00 JST]
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Caveat: Absolute must-have information

I bought a book yesterday. It’s a Japanese phrase book – for Korean speakers. I figured that would be a way to help me get around in Japan, without dropping the ball on the Korean Language thing.

pictureAnyway, it’s pretty handy, and if I want to know how to say something, I have to first figure out what the Korean means before I can jump on the Japanese phrase I might need – although at least some of the vocabulary is provided with English glosses, too.

On page 75, I found the most important information. Namely, I need to know about オタク (otaku). ‘Cept… I already knew that word. Plus, if you’ll notice, the Korean is the same. Actually, the only time I’ve heard Koreans using that word is with reference to specifically Japanese cultural phenomenon.

Walking around, I saw more cherry blossoms. I guess I picked the right time to come hang out in Kyushu. Here’s a view at the intersection half a block north from the little guesthouse I’m staying at.

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Caveat: Easy Japan

I won’t say that I like Japan more than Korea. But in a lot of ways, I find Japan easier to like than Korea. I spent a long time yesterday trying to figure out why that is. It might be something as simple as the fact that the Japanese character includes a level of cultural self-confidence that is comforting after constantly coping with the myriad minor insecurities embedded in contemporary South Korean cultural discourse: the petty nationalisms, the linguistic deference … these things are mostly absent in my interactions with random Japanese and in my observations of cultural output, here.

Maybe if I spent more time in Japan, these perceptions would become more nuanced. But superficial impressions count for a lot. Still, there remain many reasons why I’m sticking with Korea, despite my fascination with (and liking for) Japan.

A picture.

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Caveat: Public Art

I love public art. Probably, that’s one reason I like walking around Ilsan. And Fukuoka was interesting, this morning, too. Here are some pictures of public art (and/or interesting architecture).

Walking around Ilsan, near Baekma area:

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Here is something tucked next to a building walking out the east end of the mall called “WesternDom” in Ilsan, on the way to Madu Station:

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Here is a picture I took this morning, here in Fukuoka, Japan. It’s a digital clock that changes to show the time. But the pixels are made of little fountain spouts. So it’s an altogether new take on the “water clock” idea:

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Here is a weird frog-creature-arch-thing in the Tenjin area (downtown) of Fukuoka:

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Here is the somewhat famous ACROS cultural center in Fukuoka, with its rooftop gardens:

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For contrast, some blossoming cherry trees along the river:

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Lastly, some palm trees in the median of a major street near Hakata Station:

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Caveat: 치즈라면

Yesterday, I zoomed out to Ilsan after signing my contract, because I wanted to thank two of the people who made the contract possible, which were my two former bosses who gave me such glowing recommendations.

I stopped by the hagwon where my friend Peter teaches, too, and we had a quick supper at a local hole-in-the-wall Korean fast-food joint (these are called 분식집: bun-shik-jip = minute-meal-house).

I ordered 치즈라면 (chi-jeu-ra-myeon = cheese ramen), which holds a special place in my heart.

pictureCheese ramen is the first “Korean cuisine” meal that I ever ate in Korea. I was stationed at Camp Edwards in 1990-91 while in the US Army, and I was out running some errand over to Camp Casey at Dongduchon with my sergeant. We were zooming along in our humvee, on some twisting road (there were no expressways back then, yet, in northern Gyeonggi-do, like there are now), and the sergeant announced we were stopping for lunch.  We pulled up at some apparently random “next-to-some-US-base” ramen joint, that was set up at the intersection of two roads, and he ordered us cheese ramen from the ajumma that apparently knew him.
“Korean delicacy,” he explained, tersely.

“Yes, sergeant,” I nodded.  I was curious and excited to finally have an “off-post” cultural experience, having been on “lock-down” for my first 3 months in Korea (due to the gulf war going on in Kuwait, half a world away).

Being February, it was cold.  The warm, gooey mess of spicy ramen with a slab of plasticine american cheese melted into it was comforting – a perfect mix of the exotic and familiar. I was hooked, and have been ever since. Living in the US, I would simulate Korean cheese ramyeon by adding a teaspoon of cayenne pepper and a slice or two of american cheese to bland, US-purchased Japanese-style ramen, such as Maruchan or Smack Ramen.

Yesterday’s cheese ramen was, as usual, unnaturally delicious and warmly nostalgic.

How is it that we later feel nostalgic for times in our lives that, at the time we were living them, were so difficult and unpleasant?
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Caveat: 황사

황사 (hwang-sa = yellow sand) is what they call the springtime storms of dust that roll in from the Chinese desert far to the west. Korea’s always had these… but in recent years, because of Chinese industrial pollutants and deforestation in China and Mongolia, they’ve become more severe and much more of a health and environmental hazard.

Yesterday was heavily grey, overcast but with a vaguely brownish-yellow tinge. It’s hard to capture on film, but here’s a picture I took, out wandering about randomly in Seoul – note that it’s about 3 in the afternoon – hardly sunsettime – but weirdly dark. Today is blue and clear. Huge contrast.
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