Caveat: Field Trip

This large group of “newbie” EFL teachers in the training here were taken on a field trip yesterday. Kind of like a one-day tour of some parts of Jeollanam province. It was cool. I took a lot of pictures. But here are two that actually show me – which are rare. I’ll maybe post some of the “scenery” pictures later.

This first picture is of me with some school girls that were at the Nagan Folk Village – a sort of Korean Historical theme park (tastefully done). Kids in Korea will run up to foreigners – especially large groups of foreigners obviously on tour, and say things like “Hello!” “How are you?” Basically, they want to practice English, and be friendly.  These girls were impressed because I’d managed 3 or 4 phrases of passable Korean, and so I suddenly became a rock star.

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This picture is me in front of a small compound gate at a temple complex at Jogyesan National Park.

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Caveat: Trees. Trees.

The last time I talked with my mother, she shared an aphorism with me that’s been rolling around in my brain: “Before enlightenment, there are trees. After enlightenment, there are trees.” This is probably a paraphrase of something aptly Buddhistic, but I like the simplicity of it.

I was thinking of it, and looking at trees, yesterday, as I climbed up the path up the mountain behind my hotel here in Gwangju. There were many trees, in various stages of springing forth, from bare branches to luxuriant pale, glowing green, with lots of blossoms too. Some of the trees had little labels on them placed by the local park service that maintains the park, and so I set to trying to learn some of the Korean names of trees – assuming I could identify the tree in question based on my own somewhat stale knowledge from my classes in botany of 20 years ago.

It was a steep climb – good exercise to reach to top. The view out over Gwanju wasn’t spectacular: there were too many trees. But it was beautiful. And I had the space mostly to myself, since rain was threatening. It’s pretty rare to have park-trails to oneself, in Korea.

Here is a picture.

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Caveat: in praise of pedestrianism

Yesterday, I took the bus out to see my new town for the first time.  The little town of Hongnong-eup (-eup just means "town"), in Yeonggwang-gun (-gun means "county"), on the northwest corner of Jeollanam-do (-do means "province").  I was intending to meet with my fellow "foreign teacher" who is working at the same school that I will be;  however, she ended up having a last minute errand to run, so I was left on my own at the bus station of Hongnong.  I walked the length of the town in about 10 minutes.  And then I was back at the bus station, with nothing to do.

So… I did what I always seem to do, when at a loss as to what to do.  I took a long, long walk.   I think I walked about 10 km.  I walked south of Hongnong, through the rice fields, and ended up at a place called "백제불교문화최초도래지" which roughly translates as "Baekje Buddhist culture first arrival place" – it is the spot in the Korean peninsula where Buddhism first "arrived," probably in the 500's or early 600's CE.

The location has the feel of something like a cross between a national monument and a Buddhist theme park, with flower gardens, trails over and around the mountain, lots of statues, chanting from speakers mounted on lamp-posts, gift shops, temples, etc.   It was, in any event, very interesting.  I had forgotten to take my good camera with me, but I snapped a few photos with my old cellphone (which I carry around for it's pretty-good electronic dictionary function).  I'm having some trouble downloading those photos, now, but when I do, I'll add them here.

I then walked into the town of 법성 (beopseong), an industrious-seeming little fishing port on the inlet in the coast, there (geomorphically, a "ria," or submerged river valley, I believe).   I saw at least ten thousand stores selling "gulbi" which is the local species of croaker fish, very popular to sell to the tourists, apparently.

By this time, it was getting toward 7 PM, so I decided to just come back to Gwangju, since I'm not so into wandering around randomly once the sun sets.   I found the Beopseong bus terminal and got on the next Gwanju bus, and I felt very efficient and knowledgeable when I was able to walk out of the bus terminal and immediately climb onto the correct bus number (1187) that would take me back to the east side of the city to the mountain where my hotel is located.  I got back by 9:30 or so, I think.

I really love just walking around places.  You get such an "honest" feel for how the place is.  You see all of its aspects.  You don't truly know a town, until you've walked down each of its connecting roads at least as far as the next town.   When living in big cities, I often wander for long stretches on public transportation.  But in rural areas, such as will be my new home, the best thing is to wander on foot.

I plan to do a lot of that, over the coming year.  I'm off to a great start.

Caveat: Orientation is disorienting

I am participating in a rather in-depth, week-long orientation and training program related to my new job. This is very disorienting – because I never had so much as an hour of orientation or training at any of my three previous jobs in Korea.

Some of the “cultural content” it is a bit redundant or boring, for someone who’s already been here a few years. But other bits are amazingly useful, and I find myself thinking, “gee, it would have been nice to have known that, say, 3 years ago.”

Overall, I think this will be good. Plus, the hotel where this is taking place is the poshest place I’ve stayed at in a long time – possibly since I had the Oracle 8i/9i certification at that resort in Pennsylvania in 2004.

Here’s a picture from my hotel balcony, looking west-southwest over Gwangju, as the sun is coming up behind the mountain behind me.

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Caveat: Zen pep rally of robots; Confucian riot of saints

I like to invent little metaphors that sound like good names for rock bands.

Yesterday, walking around Gwangju, I ran across some monuments to the Gwangju democracy movement of 1980. Although the movement failed against the dictatorship of that time, it was a significant turning point in the evolution of South Korean politics.

I began to reflect on South Korea’s “protest culture.” A lot of people view this as a sort of political immaturity (even, or especially, South Koreans themselves), but I have a rather different take on it. Firstly, this “protest culture” is as innate and important to modern South Korean democracy as, say, a town hall meeting is to New England democracy. Secondly, however, I think the fact that people in this country feel free to begin a rally or protest at the drop of a hat actually makes South Korean politics a bit more genuinely responsive and, well, “democratic” than a superficial systemic analysis might suggest.  So rather than seeing it as a blemish on the South Korean polity, I see the protest culture as a sort of enhancement, if an imperfect one.

But it seems odd, doesn’t it, that a country still so steeped in Confucian culture and values would adopt protests and riots as a (more or less) legitimate means of political expression?  Thus I stumbled on the idea of a “Confucian riot.” Which sounds cool, and is maybe less oxymoronic than you’d think. And I was contrasting the idea, in my mind, with Japan. Japan doesn’t have the same kind of protest culture as South Korea – not at all. Perhaps, lacking a recent historical experience with in-your-face dictatorship (i.e. at least not since WWII, and arguably even before that), Japan never developed the need.  Japan is a more consensual polity, whether truly democratic or not. More like a “pep rally” than a riot.  And so I stumbled on the contrasting idea of a “zen pep rally.”

I’m just thinking about these things. This is not a polished thesis or even intended to be a well-structured argument. More like a suggestion for two contrasting metaphors for two intimately related but profoundly distinct societies.

Here is a picture of a monument to the “518” movement (the Gwangju uprising of 1980), in front of the central high school. And some other monuments I noticed, not far away.

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Caveat: Sucky Rosetta Sudoku

I don't like sudoku.  Nor do I like crosswords, chess, "brain-teaser" puzzles, etc.  I feel like this fact about myself is somehow a serious violation (nay, betrayal) of my nerdly origins, that I'm like this.  But, I've always lacked enthusiasm for these types of mental recreations.  One memorable example:  I remember when Rubic's Cube first came out, and everyone was obsessively trying to solve it.  I managed to solve it – it wasn't easy, but I managed – but  I genuinely recall my efforts to do so as a profoundly unpleasant experience.  I never picked it up again.  Even today, when I see a Rubik's Cube, I have a sort of visceral reaction of strong distaste, similar to how I react to seeing bananas (to which – it has been verified – I am allergic).

My theory is that this gut reaction is because my perfectionism is stronger, and receives higher priority, than my intellectual curiosity.  That doesn't sound like a very good reflection on my personality.  And… it's not.  But I'm trying to be honest about things, here.

Anyway, that's not what I meant to write about.  I had a major insight, yesterday. 

I'd decided to dedicate some more time to working through the Rosetta Stone software I'd splurged on last fall.  I've been pretty unhappy with it, and so it's hard for me to motivate to use it.  I have only managed to work up to around the middle of the Level 1 Korean package.

So I was slogging through it… I see the value in it, in building some automaticity with respect to grammar points and  vocabulary.  My core criticisms remain the same:  it's not very linguistically sophisticated in its presentation of material (especially of phonological issues and grammar); the speaking sections' "listener/analyzer/scorer" is majorly wonky (I sometimes get so frustrated I just start cussing at it, which tends to lower my score); the grammar points covered sometimes don't match the way actual Koreans around me actually speak, in my experience.

But I found a new reason why I don't like Rosetta Stone, and I found it in a surprising way.  I was reading a recent issue of the Atlantic magazine, and there was an ad for Rosetta Stone.  And the ad said something to the gist of:  "if you like sudoku, you'll love learning a language with Rosetta Stone."

You can see where this is going, right?  Rosetta's software is deliberately designed to activate the same mental processes and reward centers that puzzle-games like sudoku do.  And therefore it's suddenly obvious why I spend most of my time when trying to use the software feeling frustrated and pissed-off.  It's the same reason I feel constantly frustrated and pissed-off when I try to solve sudoku puzzles, or play chess, or other things like that.  I just don't enjoy that type of intellectual challenge.

But this insight also forces me to temper my criticism of Rosetta Stone substantially, in one respect:  it means that it's just my idiosyncrasy, in part,  that causes me not to like it, and to regret having bought it.  If you're like most reasonably intellectual people, and enjoy killing some time solving sudoku or playing chess or the like, then, probably, Rosetta Stone is a great tool for learning a language.  You'll probably think it's really fun.

Sigh.

So… there.

Caveat: 이가방이 무거워요…

I have arrived in Gwangju.
Everyone knows I struggle with memorizing vocabulary.  “Heavy” is a word that I’ve looked up the Korean equivalent for at least 15 or 20 times, and it never has managed to stick with me.  But, as of today, I think I can confidently say I’ve got it well and truly stuck in my brain, finally.
Context is everything, in language learning.  I have some very heavy luggage, today, as I tote my most important worldly possessions down to Gwangju.  Hefting the bag into the taxi, and again, getting help from the assistant at the bus terminal, I had occasion to hear and use “무거워요” (mu-geo-weo-yo = it’s heavy).  And now I know that I know that word.
Travel costs are so reasonable, in Korea, after having been in Japan.  The bus ticket, express “special” (우등) from Suwon to Gwangju was only 21,000 won.  That’s less that 20 bucks, to take me basically across the whole country, north to south.  Admittedly, that “across-the-country” bus trip was exactly 3 hours and 5 minutes long.  Once out of metro Seoul, the expressways are wide, well-engineered and convenient.
I don’t remember when I was last in Gwangju.  I do know I haven’t ever spent much time here – it’s Korea’s 4th or 5th largest metropolis (depending on whom you ask), but possibly it’s the country’s least “international” of the major cities.  Regardless, it’s an important city for the history of modern democratic South Korea, and it’s pretty successful, as cities go, from what I’ve read.
I’m going to look around a bit.  More later.

Caveat: “주둥이 함부로 놀리지 마라”

“Don’t move your muzzle randomly” – this is what my friend Seung-bae said, as we stood in front of a Buddhist temple, discussing the issue of hypocrisy and religion. We had driven up the first part of a mountain called 광교산, past the Suwon reservoir, and at the end of the road near the base of the actual mountain, there was a temple, as is typical.

When he said this, he wasn’t criticizing me – he was teaching me an aphorism, which he is very good at.

Here’s a picture of the temple.
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Here’s a picture of the view out over Suwon, as it got dark.
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Here, we stopped at a hole-in-the-wall for makkoli (rice beer) and egg/vegetable pancakes with some radish kimchi on the side.
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Here’s a picture of a truly bogus chicken joint.
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Caveat: Melancholy Megalopolis

I'm going to head down to Gwangju, tomorrow, since I have to check in for my "training" on Sunday, but I'd like a few days to get oriented myself, first – I'm thinking of taking a day trip out to my new place of employment on my own, just to get the feel of the place.  "Chomping at the bit," I guess is the phrase.

But that means this is my last day in Seoul, and suddenly I'm feeling very nostalgic about my time in Ilsan (north suburbs) and Suwon (south suburbs).  I'm excited and nervous about my new job, but I know I'm taking a risk – especially since I've always been such a "city person" and now I'm moving to a tiny town, for at least a 1 year commitment.

Despite growing up in Arcata, a relatively tiny town of less than 20,000, I became a "city person" – my life in places from Mexico City to Philadelphia to Minneapolis to Los Angeles to Seoul have all agreed with me much more than those times I've been in less urban environments.  I was telling a friend that the smallest place I've lived, for an extended period of time (i.e. over 6 months), since high school, is probably Minneapolis / St Paul – a metropolitan area of about 2 million.  With my move to Hongnong, beginning (I think) week-after-next, it's looking like that will change.

Caveat: pretty long winter

This winter has seemed really long.  Not that I'm complaining – I love winter.   But starting with the fact that I've been traveling and/or rootless since last September (which tends to stretch time out) and add to that the fact there has, indeed, been a lot of wintery weather in the places I've been… well, that makes for a pretty long winter, subjectively speaking.

I saw my first snow back in early October, in Denver, Colorado, at my sister's.  And I saw a scattering of snowflakes today, seven and a half months later, while riding the train up from Suwon to Ilsan.  I love snow.

Caveat: 6 hours, door to door

From my guesthouse in Fukuoka to my guesthouse in Suwon, it took almost exactly 6 hours – of which only an hour and 15 minutes were in the air.  I didn't have to pick coming back to the same guesthouse in Suwon, but I left a bunch of luggage here, and it's familiar. 

I took the subway from the guesthouse in Fukuoka, near Nakasukawabata station, to the airport.  I checked in, and waited around a lot.  I flew.  I landed in Seoul at 10:15, but by the time I got out front at the airport, it was just past 10:40, and the last direct airport bus for Suwon had left.  Minor argh.

Rather than spend an exhorbitant amount on a taxi, I got a little bit clever:  I took a bus #6020 which took me to Gyo-dae-yeok (University of Education Station), and from there I waited for the midnight (last run) of the #3000 bus that dropped me on my doorstep here in Suwon.  It was much more reasonable in price, but a bit lengthy in ride-time.

Well, I'm here now.  I'll post more tomorrow.  It's very late, and I'm waiting for my friend to check me in…

Caveat: Where to stay in Kyushu

I feel like I got pretty lucky with my lodging in Kyushu, in the three places where I found good guesthouses: Kagoshima, Fukuoka, and Nagasaki.

The place to stay in Kagoshima is called Nakazono Ryokan. The place to stay in Nagasaki is called Fujiwara Ryokan – that place is awesome.

But the least expensive place I stayed was also the most convenient. In Fukuoka I stayed at Kaine Guesthouse. For 2500 yen a night (that’s 25~30 bucks, but that’s a steal by Japanese standards) I could sleep in a dorm with a futon fairly comfortably (except for the night there was the loud snoring guy). Very centrally located, I walked most anywhere I needed or wanted to go, but the subway can take you to the airport, trainstation, or Korean consulate easily.

The most important thing – the people are very friendly, and helpful. They were like a little support group as I agonized over not getting my visa number for so long.

Here’s a picture of me with staff member Mizue.

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And here’s a picture out front, with two other guys who worked there.

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Caveat: Old Temples and Blossoming Trees

I walked around a lot on Sunday, and took some pictures. Yesterday, it was raining pretty steadily, so I didn’t take as many pictures, and I didn’t walk around as much. Here are a few random pictures from Sunday; I found a temple called Sofukuji in the Northeastern part of the city, and some of the alleyways around it were very interesting too. The last picture is from west of downtown, near the old Fukuoka castle.

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Caveat: The Fukuoka Visa Run

So here, for posterity, I will record my own, personal experience of the slightly infamous Fukuoka "visa run."  There are plenty of online references to this type of experience, as it is nearly universal among Westerners trying to work out long-term livelihoods in Korea to have to make a "visa run" to Japan at some point or another.  I have googled and utilized bits of information from various summaries of other people's experiences over the last several weeks.

My own "visa run" experience was nearly unique, in one respect:  I opted to wait for my authorization number while in Japan, rather than in Korea.  This was an issue of timing – it just so happened that my tourist visa in Korea ran out just as I submitted my application.  Since I didn't see the logic in coming to Japan to "reset" my tourist visa, and then return to Korea only to have to go back to Japan 2 weeks later to get the E2 visa, I decided to just wait in Japan.  This was not a big deal.

My angst and suffering during the waiting period (which is well documented in previous posts) was rooted in my own insecurities, and not in the fact that the waiting was taking place in Japan rather than in Korea (or elsewhere, for that matter).  And now, I feel that I have a sort of "home base" in Japan – I feel very comfortable in the city of Fukuoka;  I know where things are, I know how to get around, etc.  In retrospect, however, I must admit that it would have cost me less to make a "double trip" to Fukuoka, rather than sit in Japan waiting.  The cost of everything in Japan is quite high, compared to Korea:   food, lodging, transportation, etc.

So starting Friday, I had a more typical "visa run" experience.  I got my authorization number via email early Saturday morning.  This morning (Monday), I went to the Korean consulate.  The Korean consulate in Fukuoka is extremely easy to get to:  about a 5 minute walk north of the Toojinmachi subway station (which is on the same "Orange Line" that stops at the airport and at the main Hakata Railroad Station where the shinkansen stop).   I have been using my "SUICA" card to ride the Fukuoka subway, which is the stored-value e-money card that I'd bought in Tokyo last September.  But I think the ride from downtown (Tenjin) runs about 200 yen.  The consulate is basically "across the street" from the Yahoo! Dome (a sports stadium) and the Hawks Town Mall – so if you follow the horizon to those landmarks, you can't get lost.    

Unlike what I'd been told by my recruiter, I did not need copies of my passport, I did not need sealed original university transcripts, I did not need copies of my criminal background check, I did not need copies of anything at all.   The magic authorization number was really all they needed.  That, and a single passport-size photo, and, of course, I surrendered my passport.  I filled out a mini application but that seemed almost a mere formality.

The one piece of information that I did not have that they asked for was a name, address and phone number of my new employer – but, because the woman behind the counter was kind and efficient, she was actually able to retrieve that online using my authorization number, too.  Still, for those using this summary as a reference, I recommend you have that information handy. 

Certainly just because I didn't need any of that additional paperwork doesn't imply that one should show up at the consulate unprepared.  Jared's number one bureaucracy rule:  always carry lots of copies of everything.  I had brought along a copy of my contract and a photocopy of my old Korean "alien card," too – but I noticed the woman behind the counter pulled that information off her computer and filled it into an "office use only" blank on my mini-application.  Unlike what I read in all the various online accounts of the "visa run," I didn't hold any kind of "blue authorization form" from Korean immigration.  So don't worry, I guess, if you don't have that document – just make sure you have an authorization number that they can put into their computer.

Oh, and, of course, I paid a 4500 yen fee.  It must be in Japanese currency – won or dollars are not acceptable.  I'd been worrying that maybe, like in the US, there would be some problem with paying in cash (in the US, many agencies, including consulates of foreign countries, rarely accept cash, and require check or money order).  But paying in cash was fine.

As mentioned, the woman behind the counter was extremely courteous, efficient, and kind.  I can't say the same for the guard at the front gate – he was a bitter gate-gnome with a grudge against everyone (he was unkind to the people in front of me in the little line that developed, too).   I wondered if he might ask me the airborne velocity of an African swallow.  But once past that hurdle, it all went quite smoothly.

Tomorrow morning, I will pick my passport with it's shiny new E2 visa stuck into it, and then I can return to Korea.  I'll have to go to the airport and rearrange my return ticket, but that shouldn't be a problem (although there might be a fee involved).  By the end of the week, I'll be in my new job.  I'm excited, and nervous.

Caveat: and the number is…

I have a visa number.  I got an email which was timestamped at 1:53 AM.

This is what this long, Kafka-esque waiting has been about.  So now, I'm over the hump, and I'd hazard a guess that I can officially consider myself employed by the Yeonggwang County schools.   Monday, I'll go to the Korean consulate, and submit my number in exchange from some shiny stickers for my passport, and then I can return to Korea and begin teaching.

I'm excited.  There will no doubt be a few more bureaucratic humps to pass over, but I feel much more optimistic, now.  I'm trying to decide if there's any last touristic thing I want to do in Fukuoka, before I go, but honestly, as I've been saying, I'm feeling pretty ennervated with regard to the rootless travel experience.  I may decide to just kind of be lazy these last few days.

Caveat: きつねうどん

I had kitsune udon for dinner last night and it was incredibly delicious.  It’s a type of udon (thick wheat noodles) served with broth and fried tofu (called 油揚げ=aburaage).  I think I must have had it a long time ago, but I didn’t remember what it was.  Now I think I will have to remember it and try making it sometime, or some creative derivative.
I keep flirting with vegetarianism, as many people know.  And the last few months, especially, I’ve been feeling really negative about meat, except perhaps seafood.  I’m not sure what’s driving it.  Partly, it’s health – I really think eating a lot of meat must be unhealthy.  The last few times I’ve had beef or pork, I’ve had an upset stomach for days afterward.
Also, there are all the articles I’ve read explaining that consuming meat (especially beef) has a carbon footprint as large as, if not larger than, driving cars, for example (under an average American’s diet, anyway).
Finally, I just seem to find a well-cooked and balanced vegetarian meal quite delicious.  So maybe it’s just a matter of personal aesthetics.
I’m unlikely to take the leap to a full-blown vegetarian commitment, as it’s not really my character.  I almost always eat what people suggest or put in front of me when I’m dining with others, both out of cultural deference and because I like trying new things.  But I will continue to explore vegetarian and vegan cuisine when given the option.

Caveat: Mechanical Grace

I spent at least an hour yesterday watching a backhoe operator on a barge in the river.  He was dredging sand off the bottom of the river, and putting into a floating receptacle of some kind.   The backhoe was sitting on a floating platform, a simple barge, that also had a little hut and some anchoring devices of some kind that would sink down into the bed of the river.

It was interesting to me because he was operating the backhoe so gracefully. He would use the shovel end of the backhoe to push his barge around in the water, pushing off of another barge, off the side embankment of the river, and mostly pushing around on the bottom of the river. It was like watching a child navigating an inflatable swimming-pool-toy in a shallow pool.  Or maybe like watching a guy operating one of those gondolas in Venice. But it was all scaled up to involve this large machinery.

I wish I had had my video camera with me, to capture the movements, but here’s a picture of the machine, as he uses the shovel to push his barge backwards.

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Caveat: the stranger

I've commented before that in some ways,  I seem to like being an obvious foreigner – it seems to confirm or reinforce my internal feelings of alienation.  Yesterday I was forced to think about this when I found myself feeling uncomfortable because some foreigners, like myself (Westerners), were being friendly to me, and rather than being friendly back, I was being antisocial.   Not blatantly antisocial – just not opening up to the conversation.

Then again, sometimes I get antisocial with everyone, but I was thinking that if it had been locals trying to be friendly with me, I'd have been less antisocial, probably.  I was trying to figure out what was going on in my mind.

I didn't have much luck figuring things out, except to realize that I am (have always been, will probably always be) a loner.  And maybe one reason I don't mind existing in a country where I don't know the language, and where I stand out so much, etc., is because it allows me to be much more existentially alone.  The chances of being understood diminish to near zero.  Which seems to suit me in some weird way – it's like my mental process is:  "no one is going to understand me, anyway, so I might as well spend time around people who won't feel badly that they don't understand me."

Caveat: Best Crow Ever

I climbed up the ACROS building’s rooftop gardens, today. Here is a crow that lives near there.

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Still, I’ve heard nothing from my new job (which is to say, I’m still waiting for my visa).  Sigh.  I’m so bad at waiting. I’m not even enjoying this vacation. Vacations are only fun, when you’re escaping from something, perhaps. I’ve nothing to escape from, only something to wait for. So… no fun.

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Caveat: The Mall Builders

Fukuoka feels like a big city, after southern Kyushu, but it’s still pretty compact. It’s not like Seoul or Tokyo, and I walked around a major portion of the “downtown” yesterday, mostly the Tenjin and Hakata areas.

I ended up in a big, futuristic mall called Canal City. I’ll add a picture later. Funny how malls everywhere are the same. I always remember when I ended up in a mall in Temuco, Chile, and I was wandering around, thinking, “Wow, this is a mall in Temuco, Chile, but it feels just like any other mall.”

I once had a brainstorm about the nature of our global civilization – what characteristics of our cities and cultures would be most salient to an anthropologist in the far future, or from a different planet? And I decided that those hypothetical anthropologists would realize one of the unifying elements was the existence of malls.

That means their name for us would be: “The Mall Builders.” Which is a name that sounds suitably ominous and monumental for a global civilization reduced to dust by the ravages of time.

[Canal City Mall, Fukuoka]

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Caveat: 50 first dates… with a Vulcan

I used to love Star Trek.  I thought the best of the many spinoffs was The Next Generation – far better than the original, both in terms of acting and production values, as well as in writing.  And after TNG it went downhill, too.  Needless to say, when the series Enterprise came out, a few years ago, I was unimpressed, and I never watched more than a few episodes.

But it turns out, among the many unexpected things I found stashed on my hard drive recently, I found all of seasons 2 and 3 of Enterprise.  In a fit of escapist boredom, last night, I watched a few.  Compared to the first season, which is what I had seen before, the writing was improved.  And the main actors had developed some rapport and cohesion, too, so that the whole seemed less of a violation of the canon. 

I saw one episode in particular, last night, that I rather liked.  It was entitled "Twilight," and, like most episodes of Star Trek that I like best, it involved themes of weird time travel conundrums, alternate histories, and memory.  In fact, the plot was basically a rip-off of the movie 50 First Dates, which starred Adam Sandler and Drew Barrymore.  It`s one of my favorite cheesy romantic comedies, because the themes, involving the nature of memory and the narratives that make up our lives, along with the ending,  are pretty deep, in my opinion.   Anyway, take that same plot, and put the captain the Barrymore character`s role, and put T`pol (the Vulcan first officer) in the Sandler role, and you get the plot of the episode.  It was … philosophically hilarious.  So I liked it.  It will rank up there with some of my favorite Star Trek episodes. 

OK.  Back to reality.  It`s raining.  I think I`ve decided to return to Fukuoka, today.  I`ll resume my WAITING, there.

Caveat: Under some volcano

Here are some pictures from yesterday’s long walk, in no particular order.

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This is a long road, and the observation center that I was headed for.

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This is some flowers along the road.

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This is my shadow – a self-portrait.

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This is a blossoming tree in an industrial lot.

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This is a Mitsubishi van that had some plants growing inside of it.

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This is some re-bar that I saw, looking very sculpturesque.

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These are some boats at low tide.

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This is a cat in an alleyway in Kagoshima.

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CaveatDumpTruck Logo

Caveat: Walking / Cars and Convenience Stores

Yesterday, I took the ferry back over to the volcano island (Sakurajima) and ended up taking a rather spontaneous extremely long walk.  It was about 17 km.  I went up to a place that`s like an observatory, about halfway up the side of the volcano, and back down.  It wasn`t really a "trail hike," since it was mostly alongside the highway going up there and a different highway coming back down.  And some of the landscape, being a recently erupting volcano, was a bit desolate, although not devoid of nature, for all that.  I took some pictures, which I`ll try to add later.

I really like long walks like that.  I should do them more often.  Not really hiking… just walking.  I always feel like some pilgrim, or an ancient tribal person making some kind of initiation journey.  I watch the small changes in landscape, and observe how our civilization organizes itself around cars and convenience stores.  Yes, even Japan`s version of our civilization is organized around cars and convenience stores.  At least in largely rural areas. 

Caveat: Being Still

I feel guilty not traveling around, not being a tourist.

But I have been telling myself, since I only have a few days left before my alleged visa appears and I become suddenly overwhelmingly employed in my new job in Korea, I should just relax. So today, I decided to just simply stop moving, and exist. I’ve found a ryokan that is relatively comfortable and convenient, and if not the cheapest it’s at least reasonable (well, by Japanese standards). And I like Kagoshima OK… it’s something different than Fukuoka.

I read for a while. I studied my Korean, and also put in about an hour trying re-memorize my forgotten kana. I experimented with copying the “Korean-written-in-kana” from my Korean-Japanese phrasebook. That was entertaining, and served two purposes. I drank coffee in a coffee joint in the Tenmonkan (Kagoshima`s downtown area). I ate cup ramen for dinner.

Here’s a picture of my the little alleyway where my ryokan is. And another picture I took during a long walk today (about 6 km?).

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One final note, quoted verbatim from a sign I saw just now:

Keep out of new flu. Please, wipe your hands on an alcoholic towel.

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Caveat: Hello Kitty

When I went to the Sengan-en garden/estate (which was made many hundreds of years ago, and then expanded by one of the modernizing pre-Meiji Satsuma [sp?] lords in the 19th century, who built Japan’s first machine-based factory, first electric plant, and first telegraph, all here in Kagoshima).

On the grounds of the garden there was a shrine to cats. Some Japanese conqueror had taken some cats with him to Korea in the 16th century (where he no doubt worked on building that excellent rapport that exists to this day between Korea and Japan – this is a joke, OK?). The cats came back with him, having provided excellent luck and service (what sort of service, exactly?) during the war.

I took some pictures of the cat shrine, and promptly spent 25 bucks in the inevitable giftshop nearby. I will add the pictures when I get a chance and the appropriate bandwidth.

What`s weird is that in the hours after my visit to the cat shrine, I started running into cats. Cats in parking lots, cats in the forest climbing up the mountain. I took some pictures of these cats, too. I think it was a “hello cats” day. Which is only right, in the land of Hello Kitty.

Here’s some pics.

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Caveat: Kagoshima

I arrived in Kagoshima, checked into the guesthouse I`d made a reservation at, and went exploring.  There`s a volcano across the bay… somewhat active.  I walked around a little bit in the town that`s on the volcano island, but decided not to try to go up it – I was feeling tired, and you`re not allowed all the way to the top in any event, for safety reasons.  I took some pictures, which I`ll post later, since I`m on a public computer at the moment. 

Last night I slept longer than I have in a long time.  I guess I was tired – I`ve been feeling like I haven`t been getting enough sleep, lately, but unlike my normal self, I haven`t been simply sleeping more.  I had a lot of dreams last night.  Some were like being in a Korean drama – I`m still watching those, I carry around downloaded copies on my computer that I can watch in the evening or suchlike.  And the dream I woke up from was really strange…

I had several children, with me, and I was traveling in Japan.  The traveling in Japan part makes sense, of course, but why were these children with me?  Everything was perfectly natural, in the dream.  I had the kids with me for some logical reason – were they my kids?   There were 2 or 3 kids, in the dream.   The youngest was maybe 4, the oldest was 9 or 10.  I suppose this is an outcome of being an elementary teacher?  The last scene, before waking up, was where we were trying to get on board a bus to somewhere, and the youngest child had lost her hat, not paying attention, and we were going to miss the bus.  She was crying.  I efficiently chased after and scooped up the hat, and attached it to her head, picked her up carefully and jumped onto the bus with the others following.  It was a happy scene in the dream, not scary or unpleasant at all.  It was a kind of aimless domesticity, floating across my current landscape.  But weirdly vivid, the way dreams sometimes are.

Caveat: Absolute must-have information

I bought a book yesterday. It’s a Japanese phrase book – for Korean speakers. I figured that would be a way to help me get around in Japan, without dropping the ball on the Korean Language thing.

pictureAnyway, it’s pretty handy, and if I want to know how to say something, I have to first figure out what the Korean means before I can jump on the Japanese phrase I might need – although at least some of the vocabulary is provided with English glosses, too.

On page 75, I found the most important information. Namely, I need to know about オタク (otaku). ‘Cept… I already knew that word. Plus, if you’ll notice, the Korean is the same. Actually, the only time I’ve heard Koreans using that word is with reference to specifically Japanese cultural phenomenon.

Walking around, I saw more cherry blossoms. I guess I picked the right time to come hang out in Kyushu. Here’s a view at the intersection half a block north from the little guesthouse I’m staying at.

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Caveat: Easy Japan

I won’t say that I like Japan more than Korea. But in a lot of ways, I find Japan easier to like than Korea. I spent a long time yesterday trying to figure out why that is. It might be something as simple as the fact that the Japanese character includes a level of cultural self-confidence that is comforting after constantly coping with the myriad minor insecurities embedded in contemporary South Korean cultural discourse: the petty nationalisms, the linguistic deference … these things are mostly absent in my interactions with random Japanese and in my observations of cultural output, here.

Maybe if I spent more time in Japan, these perceptions would become more nuanced. But superficial impressions count for a lot. Still, there remain many reasons why I’m sticking with Korea, despite my fascination with (and liking for) Japan.

A picture.

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Caveat: Public Art

I love public art. Probably, that’s one reason I like walking around Ilsan. And Fukuoka was interesting, this morning, too. Here are some pictures of public art (and/or interesting architecture).

Walking around Ilsan, near Baekma area:

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Here is something tucked next to a building walking out the east end of the mall called “WesternDom” in Ilsan, on the way to Madu Station:

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Here is a picture I took this morning, here in Fukuoka, Japan. It’s a digital clock that changes to show the time. But the pixels are made of little fountain spouts. So it’s an altogether new take on the “water clock” idea:

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Here is a weird frog-creature-arch-thing in the Tenjin area (downtown) of Fukuoka:

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Here is the somewhat famous ACROS cultural center in Fukuoka, with its rooftop gardens:

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For contrast, some blossoming cherry trees along the river:

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Lastly, some palm trees in the median of a major street near Hakata Station:

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Caveat: Japanese? No hablo…

Somehow, since I was here last September, I forgot what little Japanese I used to know.  I think it's part of having been so deeply immersed in learning Korean over the last several months.   So in that sense, it's a good sign.  But it's frustrating to be in Japan and functioning at an even lower level than I was 6 months ago.

Ah well.  Win some, lose some.  I'll go exploring in Fukuoka again tomorrow.

More later.

Caveat: 치즈라면

Yesterday, I zoomed out to Ilsan after signing my contract, because I wanted to thank two of the people who made the contract possible, which were my two former bosses who gave me such glowing recommendations.

I stopped by the hagwon where my friend Peter teaches, too, and we had a quick supper at a local hole-in-the-wall Korean fast-food joint (these are called 분식집: bun-shik-jip = minute-meal-house).

I ordered 치즈라면 (chi-jeu-ra-myeon = cheese ramen), which holds a special place in my heart.

pictureCheese ramen is the first “Korean cuisine” meal that I ever ate in Korea. I was stationed at Camp Edwards in 1990-91 while in the US Army, and I was out running some errand over to Camp Casey at Dongduchon with my sergeant. We were zooming along in our humvee, on some twisting road (there were no expressways back then, yet, in northern Gyeonggi-do, like there are now), and the sergeant announced we were stopping for lunch.  We pulled up at some apparently random “next-to-some-US-base” ramen joint, that was set up at the intersection of two roads, and he ordered us cheese ramen from the ajumma that apparently knew him.
“Korean delicacy,” he explained, tersely.

“Yes, sergeant,” I nodded.  I was curious and excited to finally have an “off-post” cultural experience, having been on “lock-down” for my first 3 months in Korea (due to the gulf war going on in Kuwait, half a world away).

Being February, it was cold.  The warm, gooey mess of spicy ramen with a slab of plasticine american cheese melted into it was comforting – a perfect mix of the exotic and familiar. I was hooked, and have been ever since. Living in the US, I would simulate Korean cheese ramyeon by adding a teaspoon of cayenne pepper and a slice or two of american cheese to bland, US-purchased Japanese-style ramen, such as Maruchan or Smack Ramen.

Yesterday’s cheese ramen was, as usual, unnaturally delicious and warmly nostalgic.

How is it that we later feel nostalgic for times in our lives that, at the time we were living them, were so difficult and unpleasant?
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