Caveat: Ferry at Dawn

We got on the ferry at dawn, to travel back to Ketchikan, thence to LA and on to Seoul. The dawn twilight was misty and cold, and the trees were bejewelled with heavy frost.

Postscript: I had a frustrating time trying to post this from my phone. My allegedly smart phone is upsetting me. This is from my computer – we have arrived in LA.

Caveat: Boat Outta Water

We helped (watched?) my uncle Arthur remove the boat from the water and put it in the barn, today, at midday, while the tide was high.

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Curt pretended to be pulling the boat up the ramp (in fact, there is a motor and pulley system).

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[daily log: walking, 6km]

Caveat: Hydaburg

We took a short road trip down the island to the village of Hydaburg. Mostly, I was interested to see it because it was the one part of Prince of Wales Island that I hadn't visited before. Also, I have long had a peripheral interest in the Native American languages, and the Haida language is still (just barely) alive and spoken in Hydaburg, which is interesting. Thus, bilingual street signs can be found in the town.

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We saw totem poles in Hydaburg. They are interesting, too. They remind me of Korean 장승 [jangseung].

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The day was sunny but cold – Prince of Wales gets cold when the sky clears, in the winter. Frost lingered on the grass throughout the day. There was striking snow on mountaintops at the center of the island.

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We drove back to Craig and ate at a dockside cafe, and then came home and had a latish dinner of part of the salmon we'd caught yesterday.

Caveat: That Pacific Northwest Rain

I find something weirdly warm and nurturing about that cold Pacific Northwest winter rain that is my birthright. I miss it sometimes. Here is a view out the window at Portland airport, as we await a connecting flight to Ketchikan.

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Caveat: East of Eagan

My close friends Mark and Amy live in the St Paul suburb called Eagan. This is a view from their front yard, looking east, at 6:20 am.

Eastofeagan

Yesterday we drove up from Chicago, stopping to see Bob one last time at Whitewater, Wisconsin, because I forgot my phone charging cable at his house. Curt insisted, plausibly, that my subconscious forced me to leave the cord in order to compel me to see him again.

We got a tour of his work area at the Music Department at UW Whitewater. One of his fellow professors performed a spontaneous rendition of Arirang (a Korean folktune) upon meeting my two Korean traveling companions. Perhaps a video clip of this is forthcoming – if so, I'll post a new blog entry for it.

We drove the rest of the way back up to St Paul (Eagan) and spent the night at Mark and Amy's. Today, we fly back to Los Angeles.

More later.

Caveat: falling out of ilsan

The last view of the Hugok neighborhood, hours before departure (and incidentally confirming that I still know how to post to my blog from my phone).

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Caveat: depanoramification

There once was an online photo-hosting service called Panoramio. I never used it much, but I liked it because it had the ability to link one's photos directly to googlemaps – the photos could be geolocated, and seen by others.

I only ever had a total of 19 photos hosted on Panoramio, but I liked that they were there. I considered them among my best photos, and each photo was "viewed" by Panoramio users 20,000-30,000 times.

Well, Panoramio is closing down. It was long ago acquired by google, and finally google got tired of it. They've got some other thing they would rather users use that presumably offers similar functionality, but it's part of their social network dumpster fire, which I have no interest in. 

Here, for posterity, are the 19 photos I had on Panoramio – now saved on my server, but of course the active geolocation is turned off. I have had to remove the Panoramio slideshow widget from my blog's sidebar, since it no longer works.

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Casa de los Amigos, Mexico City (where I lived and worked, 1986-87), taken 2007

200708xx_piramidedelsolteotihuacan

Pirámide de la Luna, desde Pirámide del Sol, Teotihuacán, taken 2007

200708xx_collisionwithbutterfly

My truck's front license plate, Sentinal, North Dakota, taken 2007

20070810_madriverbeach

Mad River Beach, Arcata, California, taken 2007

20080111_munhwachodeunghakgyo

문화초등학교, Goyang, Gyeonggi, taken 2008

20080111_ringguaporeomeohakwon

링구아포럼어학원, Goyang, Gyeonggi, taken 2008

20080307_jeongbalsanyeok_ipgu1beon

정발산역 입구1번, Goyang, Gyeonggi, taken 2008

20090501_pajugeumchon

Geumchon, Paju, Gyeonggi, taken 2008

20090501_welcometogoyang

Welcome to Goyang, Gyeonggi, taken 2008

20090602_hosugongwon

밤에 호수공원, Goyang, Gyeonggi, taken 2009

20091027_portsaintnicholasroad

Port Saint Nicholas Road, Craig, Alaska, taken 2009

20091117_heavenmanitoba

Emerson, Manitoba, taken 2009

20100215_yeonjudae

연주대, Gwanak, Gyeonggi, taken 2010

20100220_geumsansa

금산사, Jeonju, Jeollabuk, taken 2010

20100402_sakurajimakagoshima

Sakurajima, Kagoshima, taken 2010

20100918_mudeungsandeungsan

무등산으로 등산, Gwangju, Jeollanam, taken 2010

20110128_nearmillaamillaa

Millaa Millaa, Queensland, taken 2011

20120915_namsantowerseoul

Namsan Sunset, Itaewon, Seoul, taken 2012

20121013_hugokgoyanggyeonggi

Hugok, Goyang, Gyeonggi, taken 2012

[daily log: walking, 6.5km]

Caveat: Gobong Burning

As I was walking to work, just now, I looked up to see vast billowing clouds of black smoke over Gobong Hill. Sometimes I go walking over there. I wonder what is burning? It looked like a tire or petroleum fire. 

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Right as I took this picture from a pedestrian bridge over Gobong-ro, a firetruck raced by , below. You can just barely make out its redness through yellow trees under the blue highway sign.

[daily log: walking, 7km]

Caveat: Breezy Farewell

I went into Seoul yesterday to bid farewell, once again, to my friend Peter.

Mostly it was just hanging out and watching him finish packing. A few of his other friends came by, too. I'm not sure my social skills are very good, anymore.

It was a cool, windy day, relative to the recent oppressive heat of August. A squall of rain crossed the city as we were leaving. The air was quite clear and the clouds were many stark shades of gray, like an abstract coloring book pattern in the sky.

Here is a picture of Peter, with a friend of his, and me, after going out in the street from his apartment (well, former apartment, now). In fact it is raining lightly in this picture, but it's hard to tell.

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[daily log: walking, 7km]

Caveat: Reaching for the sky, the sky reaches down

Like clockwork, the monsoon started yesterday, July 1st. It poured rain all day, nonstop. I got wet walking.

I  saw they were nevertheless using concrete pump cranes at the upcoming Mormon church: the Neojaredites trying to reach the sky. They have a ways to go.

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This morning it was gray. I went to the store. 

[daily log: walking, 1km]

Caveat: It’s Monday morning; Let’s go to the hospital

It's a tradition. Go to hospital. Snap a pic. Post to blog. Wait. Wait.
More later.

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Update, a few hours later:

With respect to my diplostome, the doctor actually said, "very good." That is good news. It seems to finally be closing up as it is supposed to.

There was some less good news, too, though. After doing some x-rays to look around the rest of my jaw, the doctor identified another spot where there was likely some necrosis-exacerbated dental problems, around the root of an upper molar. The molar was a spot where I had a root canal long ago, and because of this, the doctor shook his head, depressingly. He explained there was little we could do. "Wait for it to start hurting, then take it out. Meanwhile, keep using it." It is another case where any effort to cure it would be worse than the problem, so the medical procedure boils down to "wait."

[daily log: walking, 11km]

Caveat: a luminous spring morning visit to the purifying land of the condemned and dying

…at the hospital for a check-up… update later.

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Update, a few hours later: In fact, I'm not sure that the luminosity is consequent to or despite the patina of yellow dust in the sky. Anyway, the news is not so bad. The doctor lauded my epithelials – high praise from an oral oncologist. Things are finally growing back, I guess, and perhaps we can attribute this to the medication regime. So we renewed the prescription, and will tackle some of the less pressing problems in the dental regime, next visit.

Here is another picture from my walk to the hospital. There were little pink lanterns hung from the trees – decorations for the upcoming Buddhamas.

2016-04-25 09.51.50.jpg

[daily log: walking, 11km]

Caveat: How I didn’t become a Quaker in Mexico City 30 years ago

I started writing about this several weeks ago, but dropped the ball.

200707_MexicoDF_CasaAC08030 years ago, in March, 1986, I started my job at the Casa de los Amigos in Mexico City. This was a transformative experience for me, in several ways.

The Casa de los Amigos is a kind of hybrid between a Quaker meetinghouse, a social services organization, and a hostel for travelers. It's all of those things. It has been all of those things for 70 or 80 years now – my uncle (my father's older brother) worked with projects affiliated with the Casa in the 1950s. I worked there in the 1980s. And the Casa still exists and is quite active. The "Amigos" of the name refers to the "Friends" i.e. Quakers AKA Society of Friends. The Mexico City meeting also maintains a tight connection with the Orange Grove Friends Meeeting of Pasadena, California, which was the community my grandparents were members of when my father was born, and of which, in a kind of biographical full circle, my father is now once again an active member, 76 years later.

That period was the time in my life when I came closest to adopting the Quakerism that was my "birthright." Ultimately, my year of working for the Quakers in Mexico City was a positive experience, but it also mostly convinced me that I could never be a "true" Quaker, because I was forced for the first time to face my fundamental atheism, and for me to have become a "social" Quaker (as is true of so many Quakers, who are active but who are not religious or spiritual) struck me as hypocritical. It would take more than a decade more before my reluctant acceptance of my own atheism gelled into a kind of "faith," but I suppose that year of attending Sunday meeting and interacting with Quakers was the beginning. My more recent flirtation with Buddhism is likely also ultimately enabled by that experience, too – it differs from my early attempt at Quakerism only in that Buddhism, unlike even the most unconventianal forms of Christianity such as Quakerism, neither presumes nor requires any doctrinal belief, and thus remains available to atheists such as myself.

Another seed that was planted in Mexico City was that that was my first experience as a teacher, and it was as an EFL teacher, at that. Which is my current career. 

That was also where I learned (truly learned) Spanish, which facilitated my later studies in linguistics and literature, and which enriched my "life of the mind" substantially. Even today, after 8 years resident in Korea, I still speak or read or write something in Spanish every day, if only a fragment here or there.

For all these reasons, my year at the Casa de los Amigos was formative, and transformative, and 30 years later, I remember my time there vividly and proudly. 

At right, above, is a picture I took of the front of the Casa when I visited there in 2007. Below is a view out the back window of the conference room, toward the hulking form of the Monumento de la Revolución a few blocks south, also taken in 2007.

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[daily log: walking, 6.5km]

Caveat: Obligatory hospital waiting room blog post

I saw snowy trees and fields while walking past the park. More later.

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Update, a few hours later: I gained a clearer understanding why it is they seem to be procrastinating on doing further surgical work. The issue is that to dig down deeper in that area puts my right sublingual nerve at risk. This is a really big issue, because I lost most of the functionality of my left sublingual nerve during the cancer surgery. So my tongue has been operating all this time on the right nerve only. That's one thing the doctors mean when they say my tongue is asymmetric. So the one thing they really don't want to do is mess around with the right one. So anyway. They looked there, they said that some bone was showing (which somehow implies it's necrotic?), but they decided to continue to "wait and see." I'll go back next month. 

[daily log: walking, 11.5km]

Caveat: the winter shapes of trees

Thursdays are slipping into a kind of routine of going to the hospital in the morning. Today, I went to get my stitches out, from my procedure last week. It was fairly perfunctory, but I ended up waiting a long time. That happens sometimes.

Lately, I have been fascinated by the winter shapes of trees. I tried to capture them as I walked home over the hill. Limited success.

Trees3

[daily log: walking, 11km]

Caveat: Pursued by Neo-Jaredites

Last week, I wrote an elegy to the vacant lot I walk past every day. Today, I found out that the vacant lot is going to be taken over by Mormons. Here is a picture of the construction site (a bit blurry). It says it will be a Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints – in English and Korean and something Chinese off to the right side, which I find quite puzzling.
Lds-ilsan
I sometimes have expressed that I feel a certain fascination for Mormonism – a kind of fatal attraction. It may be because I grew up in a house across the street from a fairly large Mormon Church. It may be because in middle school and high school, I had several close friends who were Mormon. One friend, Wade, used to evangelize me on a fairly regular basis, though he was always quite respectful and polite. The consequence is that my own emerging atheist “faith” came to be defined, in part, as the outcome of a dialogue with Mormonism. Even at that age (or because of it?), I took that dialogue quite seriously. I suppose I was somewhat attracted to social aspects of the Church, even if I found the cosmology absurd.
And then there’s my name, which has meant that when Mormons meet me, they assume I’m an apostate – because Jared is a very common Mormon name, whereas it is not so common in the broader culture. One of the proto-Mormon groups in the Book of Mormon is even called the “Jaredites.” I had a teacher in high school who was Mormon (there were a lot of Mormons in my hometown, although not a majority), who even asked me once why my parents didn’t send me to the Mormon Church. He just jumped to the conclusion on the basis of my name that I must be Mormon in background.
So the fact that they’re building a church a few blocks from my home in Ilsan feels weird to me. Like they’re following me around.
picture[daily log: walking, 6.5km]

Caveat: 생일축하합니다

Last night we had 회식 (“business dinner”), after work. It was to celebrate a rather large concentration of October birthdays. Most of the people standing up in this photo are having birthdays this month – exception being the boss on the right of the photo. Korean custom: everyone sings 생일축하합니다 (saengil chukhahamnida) to the American “Happy Birthday” tune, clapping their hands.
Hwesik20151022
I wish the physical act of eating were less unpleasant for me – it might make it easier for me to enjoy these occasions. Regardless, I wasn’t that unhappy about it – I felt less isolated than usual. After the extremely difficult week I’ve been having, it was actually a bit of a highlight.
[daily log: walking, 6km]

Caveat: The Air Was Clear

The day was so clear, I felt inspired to try to take pictures when I went for my little walk on the hill at Jeongbalsan, today.

I think I need a new camera – my phone's camera seemed inadequate. 

The grove of trees behind the cultural center.

Behindculturalcenter

The observation platform at the top of the hill.

A picture I took

A view of Tanhyeon neighborhood.

A picture I took

A view of Bukhansan – the air was very clear.

A picture I took

A view of the Gobong hill with its distinctive radio tower.

A picture I took

A view of the Cancer Center through the trees – I probably have posted pictures looking out from one of the windows visible on the 10th floor of the main hospital building.

A picture I took

Some fall trees.

A picture I took

A trail at the bird park.

A picture I took

The weird streets of wealthy k-burbia, with their cheek-by-jowl  mcmansions. And somebody parked a Hummer on the street.

A picture I took

The weird church whose architecture I prefer to its dogma.

A picture I took

 

All these pictures are within a 10 block circle of where I live. As I was arriving back home, the heavy clouds drew together and it began to rain.

[daily log: walking, 3.5 km]

Caveat: Hot Pigeons

I was walking to work the other day and saw a sight common enough for Korea – even in such urbanized and upper-middle-class locations as Ilsan: hot red peppers drying in the sun. People grow them in balcony planters and in community gardens, and then set them out to cure in the sun in the fall.
This time, however, some pigeons had decided the peppers might be delicious. I didn’t know pigeons would find peppers edible, much less delicious, but they seemed to be enjoying their capsaicinated feast. They were flapping and dancing around, and fighting with each other over bits of red pepper.
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I have to say that this makes me somewhat wary of the idea of consuming home-grown red peppers – no one seemed to notice or care that the pigeons were slobbering all over the peppers, and I can imagine an oblivious halmoni gathering up her peppers at dusk and chopping them into her kimchi or stew, clueless that they included pigeon detritus.
picture[daily log: walking, 6 km]

Caveat: The Ilsanigator

Recently, some civic-minded group of the sort which still abound in Korea decided to decorate the park benches along the pedestrian streets among the apartment blocks in Gangseon neighborhood, where I walk every day to go to work.
For example, someone placed a duck with ducklings on one bench.
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Then I noticed there was an alligator – right in front of the church that annoys me so much because of the evangelists that stand on the steps handing out free packages of wet-wipes inscribed with biblical information (this is a thing in Korea).
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I dubbed it the Ilsanigator.
picture[daily log: walking, 6 km right past the Ilsanigator]

Caveat: 무의도

Today was the last of my little summer break.

I went to a little island called 무의도 (Muuido) with my friend Peter. He is returning to the US soon, and so we had decided to get together at least once before he goes, although I have a feeling he’ll come back to Korea at some point.

Anyway, this island is a small, touristy kind of island west of the Incheon Airport, which itself is on an island west of the main part of the city of Incheon, on the west coast of South Korea west of Seoul. The airport, and thus the airport island, is easily accessible from where I live in Ilsan, so it was convenient to take the bus from where I live to make this trip.

To get to Muuido from the airport, we took a local bus to the southwest corner of the airport island, and walked across this cool causeway to get a ferry. It’s a short ferry ride – at low tide, it seems like the ferry trip was about ten boat-lengths – maybe less.

On the island, first we walked over the little hill from the ferry terminal to the west side. Off the shore on the west side there is an even smaller island, that can be reached by walking across the channel between them at low tide. We did this. Peter wanted to see this island because it had been some kind of prison camp in the 1960s, and was used to train some convicts for a dangerous mission against North Korea. Unfortunately, the convicts had different ideas, and assaulted a bus and tried to escape at some point, and were killed. This was memorialized in a movie that Peter had seen. I had no knowledge of this story.

After visiting the prison island, called Silmido, we caught a bus and rode around Muuido some. There is a beach on the west side farther south, made famous by some TV show sometime back, and now very crowded and touristy. I didn’t enjoy the beach that much, but Peter had come here before with some coworkers and was waxing vaguely nostalgic.

We stopped and had lunch. I had some 바지락칼국수 – something like a clam-broth hand-made noodle soup. Then we decided to go to the airport. This was not random – it turned out somewhat by coincidence that our acquaintance Basil was flying out of the airport this afternoon.

Basil is moving to Istanbul. He said he was giving up on Korea. He seemed in good spirits.

I have known Basil since we worked together at LBridge in 2008. In fact, we met before I started at LBridge, just walking down the street in Ilsan and exchanging greetings as two “foreigners living in Ilsan.” Anyway, Basil and I have criss-crossed paths many times, including my having visited him in West Virginia in 2009, and him visiting me a few times in Ilsan, etc.
So Peter and I saw Basil off at the airport.

Here is a map I made of our meanderings at Muuido. I drew some low-tech lines on it: red is bus trips; orange is walking; pink is the ferry.

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Here are some pictures we took.
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picture[daily log: walking, 5 km]

Caveat: A Rainy Saturday

Yesterday was a rainy Saturday. I went into Seoul and met my stepmother Wendy. We shopped a bit around Insadong, had lunch of jeon [전] and donkaseu [돈카스], and stopped off at the Jogye temple.
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I came home and ended up going to bed early.
Today has been supremely lazy.
picture[daily log: walking, down the stairs and up again]

Caveat: The Gentrification of Hugok

The neighborhood where I work is called Hugok [후곡]. In some ways, it feels more like “my neighborhood” than where I live (Janghangdong [장항동], oftimes referred coloquially as Ra-peh [라페] after the mall nearby, Ra-peh-seu-tah [라페스타 ] i.e. “La Festa”), which has a more big-city, downtown feel. Where I live is kind of like “downtown Ilsan,” while where I work is more like a real neighborhood, somewhere. In fact, from a development standpoint, Hugok is marginally older than Janghang, the former dating from the late 1980s while the latter was built with the subway line extension in 1993. Parts of Hugok along Ilsan Road were already built and inhabited when I was here in 1991.

I’m writing this because although there are 3 or 4 different Starbucks stores in Janghang, serving as an index of the area’s “downtowny” character and internationalist orientation, there has never been a Starbucks in Hugok.

That, apparently, is changing. I snapped this photo last Friday, looking across the street from my hagwon’s former location, a few blocks east of the new location.
picture
picture[daily log: walking, 6 km]

Caveat: Syntactical Hapaxes and Legosnakes

Sometimes I find myself saying something where I suddenly feel aware that maybe this is the first time anyone ever needed to say that specific thing. I think of these as some kind of syntactical hapaxes (hapaces?). This awareness harkens back to the linguistic commonplace (due to Chomsky, maybe?) that one of the most remarkable features of human language and syntax is that they allow the creation of utterly novel meanings, on demand.
So yesterday, at work, I looked at the color printer on the desk in the staff room, and I observed: “There is a lego snake in the yellow printer ink.” How likely is it that someone needed to say this before?
You see, lego (the toy) includes a “lego snake” – it comes with some sets that include the lego crocodile (which I prefer to call a legogator). It is small – a single piece, intended for the same scale as the lego minifigures – about 2 cm long and 2 mm thick.
On my desk, there lives a small legogator with his lego snake – generally in the legogator’s mouth.
Meanwhile, the color printer includes a set of external ink containers that are a kind of universal post-retail hack that Koreans have turned into a business, that avoids the need to buy expensive ink cartriges for one’s ink-jet printers. The external ink reservoirs are openable and can be filled manually from bottles of ink, and small tubes snake (ahem) into pseudo-ink cartriges embedded inside the printer. This system is much cheaper and more practical than buying expensive replacement ink cartriges, though clearly not in the best financial interests of the printer-manufacturers, who have always been pretty honest about the fact that they make most of their money on selling refill cartriges rather than the printers themselves. But I have never seen an ink-jet printer in Korea that did NOT include this type of aftermarket add-on.
That’s a technical digression, for those interested. What I saw yesterday was my lego snake floating in the yellow color printer ink reservoir.
I took a picture after making my utterance, because I immediately felt the need to record this syntactical hapax for posterity.
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You can see the lego snake clearly, enjoying a swim in yellow ink.
I notified our technical/maintenance guy, Mr Park, and he popped open the ink reservoir (I was afraid to mess with it myself, not knowing the details of the device’s operation). I then used a pair of scissors to fish out Mr Snake, who was now altered from red plastic to a more orangish hue, understandably.
I suspected a young 4th grader named Chaejun of the crime. He spends a lot of time in the staff room, because his mom works at the hagwon. And he’s a little bit mischievous. Mr Park agreed when I suggested that Chaejun was the culprit.
So I asked Chaejun, later, when I saw him. “Did you put a lego snake in the printer ink?”
His English really isn’t that good, but he understood what I was referring to immediately, which was already immediate confirmation that he was the guilty party – what non-native speaker would know what that was about, if they hadn’t engineered the situation in the first place? For that matter, none of my coworkers could wrap their minds around what I’d discovered, even when I tried to explain it to them later: there were too many unexpected, strung-together nominal modifiers: lego + snake, printer + ink.
Anyway, Chaejun didn’t bother denying it. He simply nodded, grinning proudly.
picture[daily log: walking, 6 km]

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