I got up early and went to the US embassy this morning. I have to renew my passport – which means it’s been almost 10 years since that panicked moment right before my departure for my 2003 trip to Australia when my passport wasn’t showing up and I had to change my schedule at the last minute, which is why I came to Korea as a tourist as part of a layover on that trip to Australia which is why I considered coming to Korea to teach in 2007 which is why I’m still here 5 years later. And my passport is full of stamps.
I went to the embassy once before, here – it was in 2008, when there was some quirk of my visa situation at that time that required a visit. The embassy is in an oldish (1970’s? – that’s old in Korea) building a block south of the restored Gyeongbokgung (Joseon Dynasty Palace), but until the 1990’s it was the location of the Western-looking, German-designed, Japanese-built capitol. I actually rather liked that old building, but amid much controversy it was torn down as a lingering symbol of the Japanese colonial period, the palace that had formerly been on the same location was restored. I remember the capitol vividly from when I was in Korea in 1991.
I had a pleasant experience at the embassy, but it’s always such a strange experience visiting a US embassy. The US is the closest thing, in today’s world, to a world-spanning empire. But the imperialists treated me much better at this outpost than they do when I’m actually at home in the country itself. Very friendly, organized and courteous, despite the massive amount of security involved – entering the embassy is a bit like getting on an airplane in this TSA era.
Here’s the embassy.
Turning the other way (about 90 degrees counterclockwise), you can see the statue of Sejong the Great, who reigned in the 15th century, the pinacle of Joseon civilization. Behind him, the palace gate and behind that in the distance, Bukhansan.
